Painted Rock definitely was not sold

Photo: Painted Rock founder John Skinner

Several times last year, I heard the rumour that Painted Rock Estate Winery had been added to Anthony von Mandl’s stable of top-rated wineries. I never believed the rumour, although I am sure that von Mandl would jump at the chance if it ever came his way. But Painted Rock is still owned by the founder, John Skinner, and his family, with John’s daughter, Lauren, as marketing manager.

John was a successful investment dealer in Vancouver when he set out to develop a winery in the Okanagan. Painted Rock opened in 2007. I interviewed John a number of times when he was planning the winery. It was clear to me that it was going to be a legacy project, not something he wanted to flip. Here is an excerpt from the 2009 edition of my book, The Wineries of British Columbia.

John was approaching 50 and ready for a change from a stockbroker’s career when he took the plunge into wine. He was born in 1958 on a Manitoba military base, the son of a Canadian Forces fighter pilot. “I moved 20 times by the time I was 20,” he says. Trish, his wife and his only partner in the winery, had an oil driller for a stepfather and thus also a peripatetic adolescence. Perhaps because of that, the Skinners settled down in West Vancouver. “But I think travel was very good for me,” John says. “It either puts you in your shell or takes you out. I had new friends on a regular basis.”

He became a broker when he left university before graduation. He had been financing his studies by working in a sawmill until he saw how much more prosperous several of his friends had become as investment advisors. John promptly began a long and successful career in mining finance in Vancouver. And as part of a broker’s lifestyle, he began acquiring a taste for, and interest in, good wines. The sharp quality jump in Okanagan wines that became apparent in the late 1990s led him to develop a winery of his own from the ground up. “There is not a lot of difference between distributing new issues of your latest vintages and distributing new issues of an underwriting,” he figured.

He decided from the start not to cut corners. He hired consultants, including viticulturist Valerie Tait and Bordeaux ace Alain Sutre, to advise him. As the property was being shaped into ideal grape-growing exposure, vines - typically two clones of each variety - were ordered from France. About a quarter of the 10.5 hectares (26 acres) is planted to Syrah. Most of the remainder, except for a small Chardonnay block, is planted to Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, with modest blocks of Malbec and Petit Verdot. John calls the latter two varieties the “spice” for use in Painted Rock’s big red blend. [Syrah was planted later.]

Without a winery or a winemaker yet in 2007, John had Painted Rock’s first vintage, 105 barrels of red wine, made at Poplar Grove by that winery’s founder and winemaker extraordinaire, Ian Sutherland. “I know and trust Ian,” John says. “I needed ‘a safe place’ to make sure it was done right.” To ensure a differentiated style for the Painted Rock wines, John introduced some California-inspired winemaking techniques under the direction of Painted Rock’s own consultant. John firmly resisted suggestions that he should make the wines. “I am not going to be the winemaker,” he says. “I am an eager student but I really am intent on bringing in somebody who knows what they are doing.”

Eighteen years later, Painted Rock is one of the Okanagan’s most respected wineries. Many of the wines are snapped up by Painted Rock’s 2,000-member wine club (there is a waiting list to join). The winery also has six distributors in Europe. “I want to be a winery in this wine region that is internationally recognized,” Lauren Skinner says. Painted Rock’s wines are available in London, in Germany and in France.

I did a limited review of current Painted Rock wines several months ago. I have now had the opportunity to taste all the current releases. Here are my notes.

Painted Rock Chardonnay 2023 ($44.99; sold out). This attractive Chardonnay has aromas and flavours of citrus, apples and stone fruits with a well-integrated hint of spicy oak on the finish. To quote the winery: “It was respectfully oaked, with 80% aged for 6 months in oak, 55% of new and 45% old. The remaining 20% was aged in stainless steel. 30% of the wine underwent malolactic fermentation.” 92.

Painted Rock Rosé 2023 ($32.99; sold out). The blend is 51% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Petit Verdot, 11% Cabernet Franc and 11% Malbec. This is a delicious wine with aromas and flavours of strawberry and cherry. 91.

Painted Rock Malbec 2022 ($59.99). This is a wine club member exclusive. There is just a 1.15-acre block of Malbec in the Painted Rock vineyard, with most of the fruit destined for the Red Icon blend. A little has been spared in recent vintages for wine club members. The wine, which is aged 18 months in French oak barrels, displays the classic slightly perfumed aromas of the varietal, setting off aromas and flavours of dark fruits. 92.

Painted Rock Merlot 2021 ($49.99). The winery has four blocks of Merlot grapes. These are harvested individually; broken into small batches, cold soaked on the skins for four days and fermented in tank an additional 21 days on the skins with twice daily pump-overs. The winery succeeded in extracting abundant flavours and aromas. The wine was aged 18 months in French oak (30% new). The wine begins with aromas of blueberry and dark cherry leading to flavours of plum and cherry mingled with notes of cocoa and spice. 92.

Painted Rock Cabernet Franc 2022 ($54.99). This excellent wine elevates Cabernet Franc’s under-appreciated image. The varietal is definitely not second fiddle to Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine begins with aromas of blackberry, black currant and spice. The palate is rich and ripe with flavours of dark cherry, plum and chocolate. 94.

Painted Rock Syrah Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($49.99). This is a wine club member exclusive, a pairing of varietals that go together so readily. The wine begins with aromas dark cherry, black currant and spice, with a hint of white pepper. This is all echoed on the savoury palate, along with a hint of black licorice and pepper. 92.

Painted Rock Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($59.99). The winery has a 2.15-acre block of this varietal, one of the building blocks of Red Icon. Happily, a modest volume is released on its own. This is a richly-textured wine with aromas and flavours of cassis and dark fruits, mingled with mocha on the finish. The ripe tannins give this a long finish. 93.

Painted Rock Syrah 2022 ($49.99). The winery has two Syrah blocks, each planted to a single clone. This insures complexity in the final blend. This elegant wine is aged 18 months in oak, usually 80% French oak and 20% American oak. The wine begins with aromas of dark fruits and pepper. The wine is rich on the palate with flavours of fig and dark cherry mingled with a hint of white pepper. 92.

Painted Rock Red Icon 2021 ($79.99). The blend is 41% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Franc, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Malbec and 8% Petit Verdot. The wine was aged 18 months in French oak (30% new). The wine begins with a cornucopia of aromas: cherry, blueberry, cassis, hint of chocolate and spice. The concentrated texture delivers flavours of dark fruits. There is a persistent and polished finish. 96.