John Schreiner on wine
Writer and wine columnist John Schreiner is Canada's most prolific author of books on wine.
Friday, October 9, 2026
Terravista releases Canada’s first Mencía
Photo" Terravists's Dallas and Eric Thor
Terravista Vineyards, a winery on the Naramata Bench, has released an exceptional red wine made with the Spanish varietal, Mencía. This is Canada’s first Mencía.
Terravista has a history with Spanish varietals The winery’s original owners, Bob and Senka Tennant, who opened the winery in 2011, planted two whites, Albariño and Verdejo. When they decided to retire, they sold the winery to Dallas and Eric Thor, an ambitious young couple who quickly invested in additional vineyards after purchasing Terravista in 2019.
Dallas explains that “in the pursuit of growing and farming the majority, if not all, of our own grapes, Eric met and established a long-term lease with the owners of Naramata Outlook Vineyard below Naramata Road. When assessing what we wanted to plant there, of course we chose our core unique varieties, Albariño and Verdejo, in addition to a little block of Marsanne.”
She continues: “Eric and I felt strongly that we should add a Spanish red to the portfolio. In 2020 we had some fun tasting through Spanish red varieties, and we became very excited about the extensive range and fresh profile of Mencía, and the potential of growing it at this site and in cool climate conditions. We rolled the dice and planted four acres in clay/silt loam soils.”
“This Mencía block,” Dallas says, “has endured climatic extremes since 2021. It was planted during the heat dome and then survived the 2022 and the 2024 freeze conditions. There was no fruit in 2024, and some damage to the vines in the first few years of growth. Despite the growing challenges, we saw incredible quality and ripening conditions during the 2025 vintage.”
The vineyard itself has been a challenge. Dallas writes: “The site itself is very compact and has presented some growing challenges. Eric and the vineyard team have been diligently deep ripping the vineyard, doing post-harvest supplemental irrigation, planting root vegetables to break up the soil, as well as doing some foliar nutrition to help with canopy.”
As a result, this pioneering Canadian planting of Mencía is a good bet to inspire other growers to consider Spanish varietals.
The just-released 2025 wine, Dallas writes in an email, “is just the ‘beginning of an answer’ of how Mencía is expressing itself on this clay bluff at Naramata Outlook Vineyard. We are not asking, is this Spanish enough? but what is the Naramata expression of this unique Spanish red grape, highlighting bright red fruits and signature acidity. This block is also certified organic and we farm it with our small team.”
Jancis Robinson and colleagues, in their authoritative 2012 book, Wine Grapes, describe Mencía as an “increasingly appreciated aromatic variety found in both Spain and Portugal.” They speculate that “it is plausible that Mencía was brought to Dão [in Portugal] by pilgrims on their way back from Santago de Compostela.”
The Robinson book says there were 22,375 acres (9,055 hectares) of Mencía in Spain in 2008. There is a third that acreage in Portugal. It is a versatile varietal producing table wines range from rosé to dense, full-bodied reds.
Terravista winemaker Nadine Kinvig has made a similar range of wine from the Terravista planting. “We have produced three wines from this site,” the winery writes. “A rosé in the spring from an early 2025 pick; the 2023 which is wine club only with only 45 cases in a savoury and structured style; and now our 2025 Mencía made intentionally to highlight the more floral, herbal and red fruits side of the variety.”
The winery’s tasting notes also add that this is a chillable red. I concur with that but I would be careful not to overchill the wine.
Here are notes on the wines.
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Terravista Mencía Rosé 2025 ($N/A). This wine presents with an appealing pink hue and notes of strawberry, raspberry and watermelon. It is dry and refreshing but with limited time on the skins, it does not have the intensity of its big brother. 90.
Terravista Mencía 2025 ($37 for 433 cases). This wine was fermented 50% in an oak vat and 50% in stainless steel, with twice daily pump overs. It was aged in neutral French oak for nine months. The intent of what the winery says was the “winemaker’s gentle hand” was to produce a wine that expresses the site. The wine is deep in colour. It has aromas of spice and red fruits leading to flavours of cherry and red currant. There is good weight and a luscious texture. The winery’s notes speak of pepper on the finish; mine speak of black licorice. Needless to say, this is an intriguing wine. 95.
Thursday, October 8, 2026
Vasanti's new winemaker plans to change the style
Photo: The Sidhu family at a Vasanti vineyard
In Punjabi, Vasanti means spring or new beginnings. The name of this South Okanagan winery was inspired by the history of Harb Sidhu, the head of the family, who left India in 1980 to farm orchard fruit and then to grow grapes in the Okanagan.
He and his three sons sold grapes to other wineries for years before beginning to bottle wines under the Vasanti label in 2021. Gordie Sidhu, the oldest son and a financial planner, is the vineyard manager, having equipped himself with a certificate in viticulture from Okanagan College. Vik Sidhu, the youngest son, who has a biology degree, works with the winemaker.
The director of operations is Davinder Sidhu, an optometrist who also has a biochemistry degree from UBC Okanagan and who has published papers on his wine research.
The winery’s initial vintages were made with the assistance of Jason Parkes, one of the Okanagan’s leading consulting winemakers. In the spring of 2005, Petar Djuric, who had been at French Door Winery, joined Vasanti as winemaker. A master sommelier, he had a long career in restaurants before coming to the Okanagan in 2021. He has a certificate in viticulture from Okanagan College and honed his experience with a season making wine in Chile.
The arrival of a new winemaker also has led to a decision to change cooperage. “Vasani was built on new American oak and French oak,” the winery writes. “It is an assertive cooperage [which can] dominate the exact site character we are trying to show. We are moving to French and other European oak and cutting the proportion of new barrels. The reasoning: if the goal is a wine true to a vintage and its fruit, the barrel should be a frame rather than a flavour. … The vineyard [should] be the loudest thing in the glass.”
The first wines to reflect the new direction in winemaking and cellaring are being made in the 2026 vintage. It would be interesting to lay in a few wines that are currently being released – and they are well made wines – and compare them with the 2026 wines when those are released. My only comment: if it is oot broken, do not hurry to fix it.
Here are notes on the wines.
Vasanti Paradise Bubbles 2025< ($26.99 for 322 cases). This is made with Pinot Gris. The wine was fermented cool to retain the aromatics. Forced carbonization gave the wine its sparkle. The wine is crisp with notes of citrus on the palate. 88.
Vasanti Sauvignon Blanc 2025 ($24.99 for 185 cases). The fruit for this wine is from Vasanti’s Paradise Vineyard near Osoyoos. It was fermented cool and matured in stainless steel. The wine begins with aromas of lime and lemon leading to flavours of lime and gooseberry. The wine is crisp and dry, reminiscent of Sancerre. 90.
Vasanti Pinot Gris 2025 ($24.99 for 339 cases). The fruit for this wine is also from the Paradise Vineyard. It was fermented cool, left on the lees for two weeks, with regular battonage and was matured in stainless steel. The wine has aromas and flavours of apple, pear and citrus. It is crisp and dry on the finish. 89.
Vasanti Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé 2025 ($24.99 for 535 cases). The fruit is from the winery’s Granite Lake vineyard near Osoyoos. There is eight per cent Cabernet Franc in the blend. The fruit was pressed with minimal skin contact which produced an appealing salmon pink hue. The wine has aromas and flavours of strawberry and watermelon, with cherry notes as well. The finish is crisp and fresh. 91.
Vasanti Meritage 2023 ($29.00 for 924 cases). The blend is 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc and 18% Merlot, all from Osoyoos vineyards. The wine was aged in a mixture of French, American and Hungarian oak barrels. It begins with aromas of spice, cassis and dark cherry, leading to flavours of black currant mingled with chocolate. The wine benefits from being decanted. 93.
Vasanti Cabernet Sauvignon 2023 ($44.99 for 408 cases). This fruit for this wine is from two Osoyoos vineyards, in a hot season that produced a big and bold red. The wine was aged 28 months in a mixture of French, American and Hungarian oak barrels. The wine, which benefits from decanting, has aromas and flavours of dark fruits mingled with spice. The finish is long. 93.
Thursday, October 1, 2026
Blue Mountain sparkling wine in time for the holidays
Photo: Blue Mountain winemaker Matt Mavety
One report on the 2026 vintage in Champagne notes that this is the fourth difficult vintage in a row, with a below average yield.
That almost applies to the Okanagan, where frost reduced or eliminated grape crops in the 2023 and 2024 vintages. Blue Mountain Vineyard and Cellars, for example, lost no vines in 2024 but, due to bud damage, produced almost no wine. Many vineyards bounced back in 2025. Some wineries may be dealing with smoke-affected grapes this year.
“However,” as one commentator on Champagne writes, “if history has taught the region anything, it’s that a bad growing year doesn’t automatically produce a bad bottle.” That would apply in the Okanagan as well.
The Blue Mountain team under winemaker Matt Mavety is exceptionally skilled at confronting difficult vintages and, in great years, making great wines. What brings that to mind is the release of four superb sparkling wines from Blue Mountain that rival the quality of Champagne but are much more affordable. The vintage-dated and recently disgorged wines, to be released October 20, are from very good Okanagan vintages (2017 and 2022). The fourth wine is the non-vintage Gold Label Brut but is also from 2022 fruit. It is “the sparkling wine that started it all,” the winery says.
Before Blue Mountain winery was launched in 1991, Ian Mavety, then a grower, participated in a sparkling wine trial begun in the Okanagan by Schramsberg Cellars from California. When Schramsberg pulled out, Ian went ahead on his own. He found a French winemaker in California, Rafael Brisbois, who was a trained sparkling wine maker. He mentored Blue Mountain in making bubbly, beginning in 1991..
The result: Blue Mountain became arguably the best sparkling wine producer in the valley. Arguably only because Blue Mountain does not enter its wines in competitions.
Blue Mountain began releasing its R.D. (recently disgorged) sparkling wines about 10 years after building a stock of wine that had spent sufficient time aging on the lees. The wines may spend as long as eight years on the lees in bottles before being disgorged. As with Champagne, prolonged lees aging allows the wines to develop complex flavours, aromas recalling brioche, and creamy textures that are the hallmark of top bubblies. The R.D. wines necessarily are more expensive, reflecting the additional years these wines are aged. The reward for tying up capital for five years to eight years is remarkably sophisticated wine. Having said that, Blue Mountain’s prices are quite reasonable compared with competing sparkling wines.
Here are notes on the wines.
Blue Mountain Gold Label Brut 2022 ($28). This is a blend of 60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay. In second fermentation, the wine was aged on the lees for 24 to 36 months before being disgorged. The wine has notes of brioche and green apple in the aroma and on the palate. The finish is crisp and fresh. 90.
Blue Mountain Blanc de Blancs 2017 R.D. ($44). This is 100% Chardonnay aged on the lees for 7 ½ years. This is a lively, bright wine with a fine mousse and notes of toast and lemon. 93.
Blue Mountain Reserve Brut 2017 R.D. ($44). The winery notes that the “2017 vintage produced exceptional fruit quality.” This is 55% Chardonnay and 45% Pinot Noir, aged on the lees for 7 ½ years. The Pinot Noir has filled out this wine which is rich and satisfying. There is brioche and red apple in the aroma and on the palate, along with a persistent mousse. The finish is long. 95.
Blue Mountain Rosé 2022 R.D. ($35). This is 70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay, aged 36 months the lees. The colour is very fashionably pale but the wine is satisfyingly fruity in the glass, with a good mousse and aromas and flavours of wild strawberry and raspberry. 92.
Friday, September 25, 2026
Lariana Cellars: a jewel in Osoyoos
Photo: Carol and Dan Scott in Lariana Cellars
Dan and Carol Scott, who operate Lariana Cellars in Osoyoos, were close to bottling their first Meritage blend when I dropped in once for a visit. They had not yet ordered the labels and told me they were thinking of naming it for the vintage, which I believe was 2012. That would mean naming each subsequent bottling with the vintage – 2013, 2014 and so on.
I had seen that branding fail at another Okanagan winery. I decided to offer some free advice. Name the wine The Franklin to honor Larry Franklin, Carol’s father and a shareholder in one of the Black Sage Bench vineyards before the pullout. That branding has worked for Hester Creek where the flagship red is Garland, named after the late Curt Garland who owned and developed the winery.
Well, Dan and Carol seem also to have heard the adage that free advice is worth what you pay for it. They went ahead with branding the wine on each release with that year’s vintage. The current release is Twenty-Three. The branding has succeeded because of the underlying reputation of Lariana Cellars. This boutique winery, tucked right against the Canada-U.S. border, makes exceptional wines and its customers know it. And I am not put out that my advice was ignored, even if I still think it was a good idea.
Lariana’s vineyard is right beside Osoyoos Lake and it benefitted from the lake effect during the 2024 freeze which devastated much of the Okanagan grape crop. The lake is usually frozen over by January. That was not so in 2024 because there had been a long, warm fall. The open water moderated the freeze on Osoyoos area vineyards.
“Fortunately, we did not lose any vines in 2024,” Don and Carol write. “We did not have any fruit on the Cabernet Sauvignon plants and only seven barrels of Carménère were produced. Sadly, there will not be a Twenty Four red blend.”
They continue: “We thought we had lost the 2023 plantings but continued to water the area. In July, we noticed new greenery amongst the weeds. To our surprise, the new plants had survived and thrived, especially the Carménère. We completed planting more Carménère in 2025 and these are growing very well.”
And that brings Lariana’s total vineyard acreage to 7.1 planted acres.
Carménère is an old Bordeaux varietal that was largely abandoned in France during the phylloxera crisis of the 1870s. The varietal’s current “power base” – as the Jancis Robinson book puts it – is Chile, which is phylloxera free. The varietal was planted there in the mid-nineteenth century and for many years, was thought to be Merlot. It was only identified correctly in Chile in 1994.
The first Okanagan winery to planted Carménère was Black Hills when winemaker Senka Tennant was one of the owners. She almost certainly influenced the Scotts to plant it because she has long been an advisor to Lariana.
Here are notes on the current releases.
Lariana Viognier 2025 ($33 for 565 cases). The fruit was sourced from vineyards on the east and west sides of Osoyoos Lake. The juice was fermented in the winery’s two concrete tanks and one stainless steel tank. The wine is kept on the fine lees and stirred periodically over five months before blending and bottling. The wine begins with exotic tropical fruits aromas leading to flavours of quince and pear. A spine of minerality give the wine a crisp finish. 92.
Lariana Carménère 2023 ($60 for 308 cases). This wine, made from a varietal rarely seen in the Okanagan, was aged 15 months in 75% French oak (25% new) and 25% in American oak. This is a dark and rich wine, with notes of pepper in the aroma. Pepper also mingles with dark fruits on the well-structured palate. 93.
Lariana Cabernet Sauvignon 2023 ($60 for 249 cases). This is a bold, ripe wine from a hot vintage. It was aged 15 months in 75% French oak (25% new) and 25% American oak. It begins with aromas of cassis and dark cherry. The palate delivers black currant and black plum. 93.
Lariana Twenty Three 2023 ($55 for 250 cases). This is a blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Syrah and 18% Carménère, aged 15 months in 75% French oak (25% new) and 25% American oak. This wine benefits from being decanted. It has a medley of dark fruit aromas and flavours – cherry, plum, black currant and spice – with notes of chocolate and tobacco as the wine opens up. 94.
Thursday, September 17, 2026
Adega on 45th wines are worth searching out
Photo: Karen Yeung
Adega on 45th Estate Winery: the name needs a little explanation. Adega is Portuguese for cellar: the winery, which opened in 2011, was established by individuals of Portuguese stock – Alex Nunes, his brother-in-law, Fred Farinha, and their spouses. The winery is on 45th Street which runs along the east side of Osoyoos Lake.
Designed by Alex and Fred, the building is an attractive winery with a butterscotch-toned exterior, a bell tower, and a tasting room with a great view over the lake and the town. It is supported by an expansive vineyard planted in 2005 when Alex and Fred decided to convert the orchards where they had been growing fruit since the 1960s.
The original owners decided to retire and sold the winery in 2025 to the owners of Surrey’s Gate 22 Winery, who installed Christa-Lee McWatters as vice-president. She is the daughter of the late Harry McWatters, one of the pioneers of Okanagan winemaking. Her partner in running the winery is Karen Yeung, a veteran Okanagan winemaker with years of experience in the Andrew Peller group of wineries.
Born in Vancouver, Karen grew up in a family of chefs. She initially had that in mind as a career when she completed a diploma in food technology at the British Columbia Institute of Technology in 1996. But after three years developing food products, she zeroed in on wine and joined Andrés (as Andrew Peller Ltd. was then called) as an assistant winemaker. She took over the Red Rooster cellar in 2007 and, among other achievements, crafted an iconic red blend called The Golden Egg. When Peller closed Red Rooster for a few years, she became a freelance winemaker.
The 2025 wines from Adega show that she has not lost her touch. Here are my notes.
Adega on 45th Chardonnay 2025 ($24.99). The fruit for this wine is from the Hollenbach Family Vineyards at Penticton. Fermentation was mainly in stainless steel, with 20% in oak. The wine has aromas and flavours of apple and pineapple, with a hint of stone fruits. The wine is crisp and fresh on the finish. 90.
Adega on 45th Rosé 2025 ($24.99). This is a Pinot Noir rosé, with fruit from a vineyard near Kaleden. The grapes were allowed enough skin contact that the wine developed an appealing salmon pink hue. The wine has aromas of strawberry and raspberry, with flavours of cherry and cranberry. 90.
Adega on 45th Riesling 2025 ($26.99). This wine was fermented in stainless steel. The wine has aromas and flavours of lemon, apple and pear. The bright but well-balanced acidity give the wine a crisp and somewhat austere finish. 88.
Adega on 45th Espumante 2025 ($24.99). This is a complex blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Viognier, Merlot and Pinot Noir. The juice was fermented in stainless steel and carbonated to preserve a delicate mousse. (Two traditional method sparkling wines from Adega’s 2025 vintage are not yet released because they are en tirage. This wine is delicious, with a good mousse and with aromas and flavours of pear and apple. 92.
Adega on 45th Cabernet Franc 2023 ($32.99). The fruit is from the estate vineyard on the east side of Osoyoos Lake. This is a bold wine bursting with aromas of cassis, blackberry and cherry, all of which is echoed on the palate. The wine was aged 12 months in oak and there is a touch of oak on the finish. This wine deserves to be decanted. 91.
Adega on 45th Malbec Merlot 2022 ($34.99). This is a wine from one of the Okanagan’s best vintages. The blend is 54% Malbec and 46% Merlot from the estate vineyard on the east side of Osoyoos Lake. The wine was fermented in stainless steel and aged in oak for 14 months. It has a rich and firm texture with aromas of dark fruits mingled with oak. On the palate, the dark fruit flavours are dominated by blackberry and plum. Decanting is also recommended for this wine. 91.
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