Bordertown showcases Osoyoos, with a nod to Mt. Boucherie

Photo: Bordertown's Mohan Gill

At a time when many Okanagan wineries are for sale or closing, Bordertown Vineyards & Estate Winery is entering is 11th year as a producer in apparent good shape. The latest releases are wines that score well and drink well. Here from the winery’s website, is some of Bordertown’s history:

For Mohan Gill and his family, the opening of Bordertown Vineyards and Estate Winery in May 2015 was the culmination of a lifetime dream. The Gills built their reputation with over 20 years of experience as growers, supplying some of the Okanagan’s best fruit to a select few wineries and winemakers. Their sun-drenched Osoyoos vineyards are the best place to grow a wide varietal of grapes and are some of the most highly regarded in British Columbia.

The Gills are known for their integrity, attention to detail and impeccable farming skills. Passionate about wine, they turned their dream into a reality by building a family-owned and operated state-of-the-art winery in the heart of Osoyoos wine country. Bordertown wines use top 100% estate grown fruit for wines that highlight the very best of the varietals that flourish in the south Okanagan. Wines are produced by proprietor Mohan Gill, overseen by the expertise of accomplished consulting winemaker Daniel Bontorin, who is helping us develop the Bordertown style, which places an emphasis on fresh fruit flavours.

We’re nestled in the heart of Osoyoos, a border town that has long been celebrated for rich soil and brilliant sunshine. We’re a new generation winery that strives to showcase the distinct regional characters of Osoyoos fruit. We’ve made our home in Osoyoos, a winegrowing region that provides us with the diversity to grow 14 varietals in unique growing conditions. Coupled with Osoyoos’ extended days of heat and sunshine, we think we have wine growing Nirvana. Each spring, our majestic winery comes alive with gorgeous blossoms, brilliant foliage, and the distinctive hues of individual fruits.

These are current or soon-to-come releases:

Bordertown Pinot Gris 2025 ($N/A). This is a delicious wine with aromas and flavours of pear, peach and citrus fruits. The finish is persistent. 92.

Bordertown Sauvignon Blanc 2025 (N/A). This is an expressive wine, with aromas and zesty flavours of tropical fruits. 91.

Bordertown Unoaked Chardonnay 2025 ($N/A). This wine is packed with fruit, especially peaches and apricots. The finish is fresh and long-lasting. 90.

Bordertown Viognier 2025 (N/A). This is a classic Viognier – full-bodied with flavours of guava mingled with grapefruit. 90.

Bordertown Living Desert White 2025 (N/A). This is a complex blend: 52% Muscat, 29% Gewurztraminer, 12% Pinot Gris and 7% Chardonnay. The intense aromatics were still developing in this recently bottled wine. A day after opening, the wine began to show well, with fresh, zesty aromas and flavours of spicy stone fruits. 91.

Bordertown Pinot Noir 2021 ($29). This wine was made with fruit grown in a Mt. Boucherie vineyard. It has aromas and flavours of cherry and raspberry, with classic notes of forest floor and spice on the finish. With a bit of time in a decanter, the silky texture emerges. 90.

Bordertown Pinot Noir 2022 ($N/A). Again, the fruit is from Mt. Boucherie. In the glass, the wine presents with a vibrant and appealing hue and aromas of black cherry and raspberry which are echoed on the palate. The ripe tannins give the wine a sturdy texture, suggesting this is a wine from an outstanding vintage that deserves to be cellared. 92.

After 93 Pinot Noir 2023 ($N/A). After 93, a sister winery to Bordertown, also sourced the fruit for this wine from Mt. Boucherie. The delicious fruit-driven wine begins with aromas of cherry, raspberry and blackberry. The flavours are vibrant and lively, with notes of cherry and spice. There is a delicate hint of pepper on the silky finish. 93.

Bordertown Merlot 2021 ($24 for 421 cases). The estate-grown fruit is from Bordertown’s Osoyoos vineyards. This is a big, ripe wine that was aged 12 to 18 months in French oak. It begins with aromas of cassis, blueberry and dark cherry, which is echoed on the generous palate. 92.

Bordertown Living Desert Red 2021 ($N/A for 644 cases). This is an exceptional blend of 38% Cabernet Franc, 33% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot and 5% Syrah. After ferment, the wine was aged 12 to 18 months in French oak. In the glass, it begins with aromas of cassis, cherry and raspberry. The palate delivers dark cherry and black currant with a hint of chocolate. 94.

Bordertown Malbec 2021 ($35 for 1,025 cases). The fruit for this wine was grown in a vineyard on the East Bench Osoyoos. After fermentation, the wine was aged 12 to 18 months in French oak. This is a dark wine with perfumed aromas of cherry and blackberry. The palate delivers flavours of plum and other dark fruits mingled with leather and a hint of pepper. 91.

Bordertown Cabernet Franc Reserve 2021 ($N/A for 1,220 cases.) Made with grapes grown in Osoyoos, the wine – after a long ferment – was aged 20 to 24 months in French oak. It begins with vivid aromas of blackberry, dark cherry and spice, all of which is echoed on the luscious palate, 93.

Black Widow's wines impress

Photo: Winemaker Dick Lancaster in the Black Widow cellar

The wines from the Naramata Bench’s Black Widow Winery hold a special interest for me because the winery’s co-founder, Dick Lancaster, and I once belonged to the same amateur winemaking club. I reached a certain level of proficiency before conceding that commercial producers were way ahead of me. And Dick had become one of the best Okanagan winemakers. Three of his current red wines show how accomplished he has become.

I recounted his amazing journey to wine in one of the early Okanagan Wine Tour books. Here is an excerpt.

In the summer of 2000, while looking for a getaway cottage with a few vines, Dick and Shona Lancaster saw this property on Naramata Road. At three hectares (7½ acres), it was bigger than what they were looking for but, with producing vines and a panoramic view of Naramata Bench and the lake, it was too good to turn down. “Classic up-selling,” Dick says of the realtor. “And as soon as we got a vineyard, the goal was to set up a winery.”

Born in Toronto in 1953, Dick was raised in Montreal, picking up an interest in wine from his father, Graham, then Air Canada’s food services manager. Dick began making wine from wild grapes while still in high school. A three-month tour of European wine regions in 1976 sealed that interest. In Vancouver, where he and Shona lived from 1970 until moving to the Okanagan a few years ago, Dick was an award-winning home winemaker for more than 25 years.

You could call Dick a polymath, given all the skills he has acquired. Starting in biology, he earned a master’s degree. Disillusioned by the lack of well-paying jobs, he took a real estate course, then sold cars and became district manager for a leasing company. Then he got a master’s degree in business administration and finally qualified as an accountant. From 1992 until 2008, he was a vice-president with Imasco Inc., western Canada’s largest stucco manufacturer. Naturally, Black Widow’s gravity-flow winery, which he designed, is finished in tawny-hued stucco. “How can I not use stucco?” he says with a laugh. The vineyard already had Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris and Schönburger when the Lancasters bought it. In 2001 they added Merlot and a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon, selling grapes to Kettle Valley winery until launching Black Widow in 2006. “We like wines that have some real flavour and character to them, and that comes from really ripe grapes,” Dick says. Targeted production is 1,200 cases a year.

The winery is named after the indigenous desert-dwelling spider that is, fortunately, so shy it is seldom seen. The insect should be avoided because the bite (only females bite) is highly venomous.

Here are notes on three top reds from Black Widow.

Black Widow Hourglass 2022 Reserve ($55 for 220 cases). This is a blend 75% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon an 8% Cabernet Franc, aged 21 months in French oak. Aromas of cassis jump from the glass. The wine has a rich palate with flavours of black cherry and black currant. 94.

Black Widow Red Back Reserve 2022/2023 ($N/A for 225 cases). This is a blend of equal portions of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Merlot, blended from two vintages. The wine begins with aromas of dark fruits, leather and chocolate, which is echoed on the palate, mingled with a hint of black licorice. 91.

Black Widow Cabernet Sauvignon 2023 Reserve ($60 for 110 cases). This was aged 21 months in French oak. This is a polished wine with aromas of cassis, dark cherry and spice, leading to flavours of dark cherry mingled with chocolate. 93.

SpearHead's Dual Citizens stand in while vineyard recovers

Photo: Winemaker and General Manager Grant Stanley SpearHead Winery in East Kelowna decided to replant its entire vineyard in 2025 after two hard winters caused major damage to its vines.

“Approximately 24,000 vines were planted, with material sourced from top tier nurseries with a continued emphasis on Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Riesling,” the winery writes. “The replant provided an opportunity to reassess varietal placement and site expression, informed by years of experience farming the property.”

General manager Grant Stanley and Lisa Jansen, the vineyard manager, chose to plant half the vines on their own roots. This was “a deliberate choice aimed at improving long-term resilience in the face of extreme winter events.” The explanation is that own-rooted vines can be regenerated from the roots if damaged in a freeze. When vines on rootstock are damaged, they may regrow from the rootstock which produces no fruit. The winery expects the first crop from the estate will be harvested in 2027.

With no estate grapes available in the 2024 vintage, SpearHead – like many of its peers in the Okanogan – sourced grapes in Washington and Oregon. “Working with U.S. vineyards during the 2024 harvest allowed SpearHead to maintain a continuity in winemaking,” the winery writes. “These wines are crafted in Canada by the SpearHead team.” The wines are released as the Dual Citizen series wines and are “an intentional exploration of site and variety beyond the Okanagan without compromising house style.”

Here are notes on current releases.

SpearHead Dual Citizen Chardonnay 2024 ($36). The grapes came from Upland Vineyard in Washington’s Yakima Valley. The fruit was fermented in French oak (25% new) and aged 10 months in barrel. The wine begins with aromas of vanilla and apple, leading to flavours of stone fruits on a rich palate. 91.

SpearHead Dual Citizen Clone 777 Pinot Noir 2024 ($39). The fruit is from Cherry Hill Vineyard in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. The crushed grapes had a six-day cold soak before ferment. Wild yeast was allowed to ferment the wine which was then aged 13 month in French oak (25% new). As is often the case with Oregon Pinot Noirs, this is a pretty wine with cherry aromas and flavours. The finish is silky. 91.

SpearHead Dual Citizen Pommard Clone Pinot Noir 2024 ($39). The fruit is also from Cherry Hill Vineyard. After a six-day cold soak, the fruit was fermented with natural yeast and aged 13 months in French oak (25% new). This is an exuberant wine with aromas and flavours of dark cherry on a juicy texture. 93.

SpearHead Dual Citizen Syrah 2024 ($42). The fruit was sourced from Inland Vineyard in Washington’s Columbia Valley. In the winery, the fruit was handled gently, almost like Pinot Noir and was fermented with natural yeast. I would recommend cellaring this wine for another year to allow the aromas and flavours to develop. The winery is not releasing the wine until spring because it needs more time to develop in bottle. Dark in the glass and full-bodied, the wine has flavours of plum and dark cherry. 90.

Blue Mountain's elegant sparkling wines

The International Wine & Food Society has just sent its members an excellent booklet: Sparkling Wines of the World by Essi Avellan, Finland’s first Master of Wine. The Canadian section in this 102-page monograph is a mere two paragraphs. She singles out just five producers to recommend: Benjamin Bridge in Nova Scotia; Huff Estates in Prince Edward County; Tawse Winery and Henry of Pelham Winery in Ontario’s Niagara region; and Township 7 in British Columbia.

I agree with those, having personally tasted exceptional sparkling wines from both Benjamin Bridge and Township 7. But there is also a glaring omission in Ms. Avellan’s recommendation: Blue Mountain Vineyards. This Okanagan winery has produced consistently fine sparkling wines since 1991. The wines have been especially impressive since Blue Mountain began releasing its “recently disgorged” wines about 10 years ago. These well-aged sparkling wines are world class. I am not surprised that Ms. Avellan missed Blue Mountain. I doubt that Blue Mountain sends its wine to the big London wine competitions where Masters of Wine judge and taste. Blue Mountain has never chased awards, confident in the quality of its wines. And the winery has a legion of fans.

The winery began holding back some of its traditionally-made sparkling wines for relatively long aging on the lees about 2011. This is a common practice in Champagne and among top sparkling producers around the world. The object is to make wines that are more complex in flavour. To see the difference, taste a bottle of Prosecco side by side any of the wines reviewed here. Prosecco is the Italian sparking wine that has become massively popular in this market in the past decade, with good reason: the wines are appealing fresh and lively and are amazingly cheap for the quality. Most have been fermented in stainless steel and seldom spend much time on the lees.

Blue Mountain’s R.D. wines may spend as long as eight years on the lees in bottles before being disgorged. Prolonged lees aging allows the wines to develop complex flavours and creamy textures that are the hallmark of top bubblies. The R.D. wines necessarily are more expensive, reflecting the additional years these wines are aged. The reward for tying up capital for five years to eight years is remarkably sophisticated wine. Having said that, Blue Mountain’s prices are quite reasonable compared with competing sparkling wines. Here are notes on what Ms. Avellan missed:

Blue Mountain Gold Label Brut ($28). This wine, made with grapes from the 2022 vintage, spent two to three years on the lees before being disgorged and bottled, The wine begins with a display of fine bubbles and toasty notes in the aroma. On the palate there are flavours of lemon. The finish is crisp. 90.

Blue Mountain Blanc de Blancs 2016 R.D. ($44). This wine spent 7 ½ years on the lees before being disgorged and a further 12 months in bottle before release. This is sophisticated sparkling wine with an active mousse that creates the sensation of a creamy palate even though the wine is dry. There are lovely notes of brioche in the aroma and on the palate. 93.

Blue Mountain Brut Rosé 2022 R.D. ($35). This is one of the winery’s most popular wines. It is 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. An almost imperceptible amount of residual sugar gives the wine a little more body. In the glass, it has a golden hue and fine, persistent bubbles. The flavour has hints of strawberry. 93.

Blue Mountain Reserve Brut 2016 R. D. ($44). This is 55% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir. The wine spent seven years on the lees before being disgorged and then aged on year in bottle before release. The wine has fine bubbles. It has aromas and flavours of apples and strawberries mingled with toasty characters. A very elegant wine. 95.