John Schreiner on wine
Writer and wine columnist John Schreiner is Canada's most prolific author of books on wine.
Friday, June 12, 2026
Chronos and Evolve wines are released
Photo: Lynzee Schatz (courtesy of Chronos Wines
Four years before he died in 2019, Harry McWatters launched the Time Winery in downtown Penticton, converting an old movie theatre. The facility now has a wine production area, a tasting room and a restaurant. It became what one would call a destination winery.
Unfortunately, the winery went into receivership after Harry’s death. It was purchased by Ron and Shelley Mayert. Time has been rebranded as Chronos, while the Evolve brand, created by Harry, has remained in the portfolio and now graces the separate Evolve sparkling house on Lower Bench Road.
The sparkling wine house opened with three award-winning sparkling wines made by, or finished by, Lynzee Schatz, the Okanagan-born winemaker who joined Time in late 2019, taking over from Harry’s winemaking team, Nadine Kinvig and Graham Pierce.
Lynzee trained as a winemaker in Australia and spent five years with Chandon, a French-owned sparkling wine producer in the Yarra Valley there. “Sparkling wine has been my passion since I entered the wine industry over 20 years ago,” she is quoted in one publicity release from Evolve.
She clearly has solid ability in making table wines as well. Chronos designates the well-made premium tier in what the Mayerts still call the Time Family of Wines. The more modestly priced table wines are released under the Evolve label. The portfolio is deep: the winery’s website lists 29 wines!
Here are notes on just a selection of those wines. Many are from the wonderful 2025 vintage.
Chronos Sauvignon Blanc 2025 ($29.99 for 285 cases). The fruit was fermented cool for four weeks in stainless steel. The result is a classic Sauvignon Blanc, with aromas and flavours of lime mingled with citrus and green apple. 91.
Chronos Pinot Gris 2025 ($24.99 for 580 cases). The winery remarks that the ideal growing conditions in 2025 “fostered pristine Pinot Gris grapes.” It shows in the glass where the wine has aromas and flavours of peach, pear and citrus. The bright fruit flavours persist in the crisp finish. 91.
Chronos Riesling 2025 ($26.99 for 119 cases). The fruit is from a Naramata vineyard. The grapes were fermented whole-cluster in stainless steel. The wine has aromas of citrus and peach which are echoed on the palate, along with a hint of apple. The wine is balanced to finish dry. 90.
Chronos Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($39.99 for 742 cases). The dark colour and the rich texture of this wine reflect the long ferment and daily pump-overs. The wine was aged 18 months in American and French oak (20% new). It begins with aromas of cassis, spice and dark fruits. These are echoed on the palate, mingled with flavours of plum, black olive and chocolate. 92.
Chronos Syrah 2021 ($34.99 for 500 cases). The fruit for this wine is from a vineyard beside Osoyoos Lake. The grapes were fermented in small tanks, each with a different yeast strain. Each batch was then aged for 16 months in French oak barrels (20% new), and blended before bottling. The 2021 vintage was hot and produced a rich and bold wine, with meaty, spicy aromas and flavours of plum and dark cherry. 91.
Chronos Merlot 2021 ($29.99 for 568 cases). The fruit was from two Osoyoos vineyards, fermented separately and kept separate until bottling. The wine was aged 18 months in French and American oak barrels. This is a bold and ripe Merlot, reflecting both the hot vintage and the careful winemaking. It begins with aromas of blackberry and other dark fruits. The firm tannins soften as the wine has time to breathe, revealing juicy flavours of dark cherry and black currant. 91.
Evolve Effervescence NV ($26.99 for 889 cases). Made by the Charmat method, this is a crisp sparkling wine packed with flavour. The blend is 55% Pinot Blanc, 25% Ortega and 10% each of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Pale straw in colour, the wine begins with aromas of peach, freshly sliced apple and citrus. On the palate, there are flavours of melon and peach. 90.
Evolve Pink Effervescence NV ($27.99 for 1,335 cases). A Charmat method sparkler, the blend is 55% Pinot Blanc, 25% Ortega, 10% Chardonnay, 9% Pinot Noir and 1% Syrah. The latter is added to provide the wine’s pink hue. There is a hint of strawberry and peach in the aroma. The flavours are fruity, with notes of watermelon, peach and strawberry. 90
Evolve Rosé 2025 ($26.99 for 980 cases). This is a Syrah rosé with fruit from the Solmere Vineyard in Osoyoos. The fruit was whole-bunch pressed to produce a delicate pink hue in the wine. Fermentation was cool and long in stainless steel. The wine has aromas and flavours of strawberry and cherry, with a hint of watermelon on the palate. The finish is fresh and crisp. 91.
Monday, June 8, 2026
Bartier Bros. hails the 2025 vintage
Photo: Michael Bartier (photo by Shari Saysosmack)
The latest releases from Bartier Bros. Vineyard & Winery reinforce what a spectacular vintage 2025 is turning out to be.
“These wines mark our first vintage back following the winter freezes,” the winery’s marketing manager, Lindsey White, writes. “We couldn’t be happier with how the vineyards responded. The blocks we were able to rehabilitate have bounced back beautifully. We think that energy and resilience really come through in the glass.”
Michael Bartier, the winery’s general manager and winemaker, adds: “When our vines suffered so much damage two years ago, it seemed a gargantuan task to replant, remediate and rebuild. It was intimidating. But we started and kept going, and now we have harvested a healthy crop – and these wines are so delicious.”
Vineyard manager Andrew Moon underlines Michael’s comments. “2025 was really a return to ‘back to normal’ in the vineyard. We saw an early harvest, above average temperatures, low rainfall, and a long ripening window, which gave us excellent growing conditions and very low disease pressure. The result is clean, high-quality fruit across the board, with Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay standing out on the whites, and Cabernet Franc and Merlot showing especially well in the cellar.”
“This fall,” Lindsey adds, “we’ll be harvesting our first Sémillon from the replanted vineyard.”
It is a bit early to forecast what the 2026 vintage will produce. However, nothing untoward has occurred so far this season.
Here are notes on current Bartier releases, including a traditional method sparkling wine and an elegant Riesling from 2023.
Bartier Bros. Sauvignon Blanc 2025 ($24.99). The wine begins with aromas of lime leading to flavours of citrus fruits mingled with green apple. The finish is crisp and the flavours persist. 92.
Bartier Bros. Chardonnay 2025 ($24.99). The fruit was fermented in stainless steel, resulting in a crisp and fresh wine. It has aromas and flavours of apple and peach. The wine has good weight and a long finish. 91.
Bartier Bros. Riesling 2023 ($22.99). This complex wine, fermented cool in stainless steel, begins with the whiff of petrol mingled with citrus that is so characteristic of Riesling with touch of age. The palate is rich with flavours recalling marmalade. Bright acidity gives the wine freshness on the finish. 92.
Bartier Bros. Pinot Noir Rosé 2025 ($24.99). The wine presents in the glass with an appealing salmon pink hue. Aromas of wild strawberry draw one in to be rewarded by flavours of strawberry and cherry. The texture is juicy and the finish lingers. 91.
b>Bartier Bros. Rosé 2025 ($19.99). The blend is 74% Cabernet Franc, 12% Viognier, 9% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot. Each variety was harvested separately and then blended. The wine presents with a delicate pink hue in the glass. There are aromas of strawberry leading to bright, juicy flavours of strawberry and watermelon. The finish is crisp and fresh. 92.
Bartier Bros. Brut N.V. ($34.99). This is 100% Chardonnay, with wine from 2019 with additions from subsequent vintages. No dosage was added. The wine aged four months in stainless steel and a minimum of 12 months on the lees before final bottling. The wine has aromas and flavours of brioche, along with an active mousse and a long finish. 90.
Tuesday, June 2, 2026
Bordertown showcases Osoyoos terroir
Photo: Bordertown's Mohan Gill
The recent list of the 50 best wines in British Columbia included a 2025 Pinot Gris from Bordertown Vineyards and Estate Winery.
I believe that this Osoyoos winery makes numerous wines that merit recognition as being among the best wines of the South Okanagan.
The winery was opened in 2015 by the Gill brothers, preceded by a decade of growing grapes and expanding vineyard acreage primarily near Osoyoos. They grow a wide range of varietals, most of which survived the 2024 freeze because of the moderating effect of Osoyoos Lake. Production rebounded in 2025 and Bordertown has a number of white wines from 2025 that are released on the winery’s website, which also recounts the winery’s history:
“For Mohan Gill and his family, the opening of Bordertown Vineyards and Estate Winery in May 2015 was the culmination of a lifetime dream. The Gills built their reputation with over 20 years of experience as growers, supplying some of the Okanagan’s best fruit to a select few wineries and winemakers. Their sun-drenched Osoyoos vineyards are the best place to grow a wide varietal of grapes and are some of the most highly regarded in British Columbia. We’re nestled in the heart of Osoyoos, a border town that has long been celebrated for rich soil and brilliant sunshine. We’re a new generation winery that strives to showcase the distinct regional characters of Osoyoos fruit. We’ve made our home in Osoyoos, a winegrowing region that provides us with the diversity to grow 14 varietals in unique growing conditions. Coupled with Osoyoos’ extended days of heat and sunshine, we think we have wine growing Nirvana.”
Here are notes on a selection of Bordertown wines.
After 93 Pinot Gris 2025 ($28). The appeal of this wine begins with its delicate blush hue. The wine is intensely fruity, with aromas of apple and cantaloupe. On the palate, there are flavours of apple, nectarine and citrus that persist in the long finish. 93.
Bordertown Grüner Veltliner 2025 ($22 for 280 cases). This is one of the best GVs, if not the best, yet released by Bordertown. It begins with aromas of green apples. The palate is rich, with flavours of apple mingled with pear, grapefruit and white peach. A dry white, the finish lingers. 93.
Bordertown Cabernet Franc 2022 ($25 for 7,199 cases). This is a red from a great vintage and happily the winery has a lot available. Dark in colour and rich on the palate, the wine aged 12 to 18 months in French oak. It begins with aromas of spice, dark fruits and a hint of tobacco. The flavours echo the aromas. 92.
Bordertown Merlot 2022 ($24 for 298 cases), The fruit for this wine is from estate vineyards near Osoyoos. The wine, which spent 12 to 18 months in French oak, is dark in colour. It has aromas of cassis, blueberry and raspberry, leading to flavours of dark fruits including cherry and blueberry. The texture is lean. 90.
Bordertown Malbec 2022 ($35 for 491 cases). Malbec, the backbone of Argentina red wines, does well in the South Okanagan. The fruit for this wine is from Bordertown’s Osoyoos East Bench vineyard. The wine has had 12 to 18 months in French oak. The wine is rich in texture with aromas and flavours of black currant and dark cherry mingled with spice. 92.
Bordertown Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($33 for 543 cases). The estate-grown fruit is from an Osoyoos vineyard. The wine begins with a lovely aroma of cassis, leading to flavours of dark fruits. The long, ripe tannins give the wine a generous texture and a long finish, with notes of spice from the oak aging. 92.
Bordertown Petit Verdot 2021 ($35 for 373 cases). This is a rich, dark wine with aromas of spice and chocolate jumping from the glass. The flavours include dark fruits, chocolate and a hint of tobacco. 93.
Bordertown Syrah 2021 ($29 for 533 cases). The winery’s notes on this wine say: “The Gill family has always felt that Syrah is one of the most promising grapes grown in the South Okanagan.” I shared that view until the 2024 freeze killed a lot of Syrah plantings. Hopefully, plantings around Osoyoos Lake survived. Meanwhile, Bordertown has several vintages still maturing in their cellars. The 2021 vintage was aged 12 to 18 months in American oak. This is a bold and rich wine, opening with aromas of dark cherry and fig mingled with a hint of black pepper. On the palate, the dark fruit flavours are ripe and lush, reflecting that 2021 was a hot vintage. 92.
Tuesday, May 26, 2026
Blue Grouse acquires a California touch
Photos: Winemaker Stacy Hornemann
The recent releases from Blue Grouse Estate Winery in the Cowichan Valley represent the first vintage made or finished by Stacy Hornemann, the versatile California-trained winemaker who joined Blue Grouse in May 2024.
She had already been working with California wineries owned by the Jackson Family which purchased Blue Grouse in 2022, two years after buying nearby Unsworth Vineyards. Both are among the most esteemed producers in the Cowichan Valley. Both have become destination wineries.
Blue Grouse is one of the pioneers of Cowichan Valley winemaking. It was opened in 1990 by Hans Kiltz, a German-born veterinarian. It remained a modest producer until he sold it to Paul Bruner, a mining engineer who had worked in South America but had Vancouver Island roots. A major expansion began under his ownership and has been continued by the Jacksons.
In 2024, they moved one of their star winemakers to put a California-trained stamp on the Blue Grouse wines. After getting a winemaking degree at the distinguished University of California Davis campus, Stacy started her career in 2012 at Trefethen Family Vineyards. Wanting to acquire versatile winemaking skills, she moved around California. That included a stint at a sparkling wine producer, Mumm Napa, and another at a custom crush winery.
Tracy joined Stonestreet, a Jackson Family winery, in 2017 (where she made Stonestreet’s first sparkling wine) and eventually became one of the leading winemakers in the Jackson group. Ite speaks for the Jackson Family’s ambitions for Cowichan Valley wine that they have moved one of their most versatile winemakers to Blue Grouse.
Here are notes on some recent releases. Charme De L’île is a trademark all Vancouver Island wineries use to designate their Charmat-method sparkling wines.
Blue Grouse Chardonnay 2024 ($32.99). Fruit for this wine comes from the estate vineyard and the nearby Enrico Vineyard. The wine was fermented in French oak barrels and puncheons (13% new). The wine was left on the lees for 10 months and went through full malolactic fermentation while finishing with 7.7 grams of acidity. The wine is crisp with aromas of citrus, apple and vanilla. On the palate, green apple flavours are framed by a hint of oak. 91.
Blue Grouse Pinot Gris 2024 ($30.99). Fruit for this wine was sourced from three Cowichan Valley vineyards and was fermented separately in concrete and neutral French oak. Only a portion of the wine was allowed malolactic fermentation, maintaining both body and crisp acidity. The wine was aromas and flavours of pear and white peach with a hint of citrus. 90.
Blue Grouse Rosé 2024 ($29.99). The blend is 63% Pinot Noir, 15% Pinot Gris, 12% Gamay Noir and 10% Chardonnay. Each varietal was fermented separately and aged in stainless steel, neutral French oak and a concrete tank. The wine presents with a delicate pink hue, with aromas of wild strawberry and grapefruit that are echoed on the palate. The finish is crisp and refreshing. 90.
Blue Grouse Pinot Noir 2023 ($39.99). The fruit for this wine is from several Cowichan Valley vineyards and from one of the stronger island vintages. The wine has aromas and flavours of cherry. Decanting reveals a wine with depth and richness. 92.
Blue Grouse Charme De L’île Sparkling Rosé Brut ($29.99). This is a blend of Pinot Noir, Gamay Noir and Pinot Gris. Each lot is fermented separately, then blended, doing its secondary fermentation in a stainless steel tank. A small sugar dosage is added at bottling. The wine presents with an appealing pink hue and a lively set of bubbles. There are aromas of strawberry and flavours of strawberry and pink grapefruit. The wine is non-vintage but it was made from 2024 grapes. 91.
Blue Grouse Charme De L’île Sparkling White Wine Brut ($29.99). This is a blend of the aromatic varietals that thrive on Vancouver Island: Ortega, Schönburger, Pinot Gris and Bacchus. The fruit for this non-vintage wine was from the 2024 vintage. The wine is fermented to dryness in stainless steel. It is then moved to a pressure tank with a dose of sugar and yeast for the secondary ferment that produces the bubbles that are captured at bottling. There is something of a flower garden of aromas with spice and delicate citrus notes on the palate. The bubbles are fine and active. The finish is crisp and fresh. 92.
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