George and Trudy Heiss's memoir could be the wine book of the year

Photo: Cover of the Heiss memoir

The most entertaining wine book I have read in some time is George and Trudy Heiss’s memoir: Decanting Memories: Our Life in the Vineyard, the Cellar & Beyond. Pioneers in the Okanagan wine industry, they were the founders of Gray Monk Estate Winery which opened in 1982. They ran it until they retired in 2017 after selling the winery to Peller Estates. George died in 2021 but the book is structured to leave the impression that both he and Trudy are narrating the story. And what a story it is!

The book was released recently at the winery but should also be available from the publisher, Figure.1, a Vancouver house with an eclectic range of titles. Handsomely put together, the book sells for about $35. The Heisses were both European-trained hairdressers who, after immigrating to Canada, had established successful businesses in Edmonton. Trudy’s father, who had an orchard and vineyard in what is now Lake Country, led them to switch careers and also grow grapes. They knew nothing about wine except, as George liked to say, how to get it out of a bottle.

“Over the years,” Trudy narrates, “people asked us, ‘How did you plan this?’ We didn’t plan anything. It evolved every year, just another step and lots of mistakes. … The romance of starting a vineyard lasted about five days. After that, it was just damned hard work.” They had a small harvest in 1974, ramping up to a full crop by 1976. George continued to work as a hairdresser while Trudy quit that career because her legs were giving out. “So then I went farming,” she narrates.

At first, they planted hybrid varietals like everyone else. George later often proclaimed that Maréchal Foch vines were not imported from France but rather were deported. “It was the happiest day of my life when we pulled it all out,” George said. By reading German books on viticulture – there were no relevant English books available to them – they were able to switch to vinifera. “We were the first in Canada to plant Pinot Gris,” Trudy says. “We always felt that if we were going to take this thing forward and maybe one day have our own winery, we needed to have varieties in the ground that would produce quality and could compete with the rest of the world on the same liquor store shelves.” The fact that they were German speakers (George was Austrian, Trudy was born in Germany) was pivotal for the British Columbia industry. In 1976 they were visited by Dr. Helmut Becker, then the head of the Geisenheim Grape Breeding Institute in Germany. He was so impressed with the grape-growing potential of their vineyard and of the area that he offered them 34 varieties to test. The Heisses in turn offered them to the entire industry. The Becker project, as it came to be called, proved that properly-grown vinifera would thrive in the Okanagan.

George and Trudy were selling their grapes to a commercial winery which decided to put on a Vancouver tasting to show off the wines from vinifera grapes. Unfortunately, a winemaking error had mixed up grams and ounces, resulting in sulphuring some of the wine. The winemaker covered the error up by blending, thus erasing the varietal character the wines should have had. “We can do better than that,” Trudy remembers telling her husband. “And that’s what started all the trouble.”

They made 375 gallons of wine in 1980 and bottled with a hand filler and a hand corker. “There were no labels, just masking tape with the name of the grape variety written it,” Trudy writes. But the wines were better than the packaging. To get the permit to build a winery, they had to go to Victoria and meet with Vic Woodland, a senior civil servant in liquor control. Trudy had brought along a couple of those bottles, masking tape and all. After Woodland tasted the wine, he soon had all his staff in tasting with him. “So we got our plans signed off, introduced our wines to the liquor board, and away we went.” There was another Victoria meeting with government some years after that Trudy attended. The meeting was set for the Union Club, which was men only in those days. Her industry colleagues managed to smuggle Trudy into the club. She recites with pride that she was the first woman (aside from staff) in the club.

Money was very expensive in the early 1980s when the Gray Monk winery was being built. The Heisses, who were over-extended, opened a tasting room before the building was complete in 1982. “Even though it wasn’t finished we had to open because the bank wouldn’t give us any more money,” George recounts. Their battles with bureaucrats were legendary, perhaps because government had so little experience with the wine industry. Trudy says: “Like the old joke: ‘I’m from government and I’m here to help.’ Are you kidding me?!” One of the earliest was a battle over signs on the highway directing visitors to Gray Monk, which was five kilometers off the beaten path. An official in the local highways department had the signs removed several times. They eventually went to Victoria to appeal to a senior bureaucrat. “He told us he wasn’t in the business of advertising our winery,” Trudy recounted.

On one occasion, inspectors ordered them to destroy 50,000 Riesling plants that had come from a European nursery because there was some soil on the roots. Instead, the Heisses spent two weeks scrubbing the roots of those vines. “We were there for a week, scrubbing the roots of fifty thousand Riesling plants with a potato brush,” George recounts. “And the thing was, the Riesling wasn’t even ours.” The plants were destined for other growers. The Heisses cleaned them because “we knew the industry needed the plants. When we first started, we pulled the whole industry along with us.”

In 1985, a hard freeze virtually wiped out the vinifera crop. Gray Monk, which was virtually sold out, wanted to import grapes. Victoria said all the estate wineries would have to get behind such an initiative. But Gray Monk’s competitors, who still had inventory to sell, refused. “From that day forward, we never worked to help the industry again,” Trudy writes.

I am not sure that is entirely true. Gray Monk lifted the entire industry by making superb wines, by supporting the introduction of the VQA program and by turning the winery into a destination winery. And as they ended their career, the industry honoured them with a major award. The above photo is of them accepting the award; and well deserved it was.

Photo: The stunning Azhadi winery

The talk of the Okanagan this spring will surely be Kelowna’s Azhadi Vineyards, both for its Persian-inspired architecture and for its well-crafted wines. The winery, which opened in February and is owned by Mike Azhadi and his wife, Janet, is perched on a hilltop at the very north end of Kelowna, with a view over Okanagan Lake. The design is dramatic, as is the interior which is adorned with the family’s collection of Persian art and rugs. There is a restaurant on site as well; I have not had a chance to visit it.

Some credit belongs to the McDonald’s chain of restaurants. Who would have guessed? Mike, who was born in Iran, graduated in engineering from Laurentian University in 1984 and, after a brief with a science upstart, went to work for McDonald’s. Jim Faulkner, Azhadi’s winemaker, picks up the story: “He had an engineering degree and was working at R &D [research and development] with his firm when there was a downturn. When there are financial problems, you don’t need R&D. They shut down his department, He needed a job. McDonald’s was hiring, so he tried them.” He may have been one of the most successful hires ever by McDonald's. He was soon promoted to executive posts with the Canadian arm of the chain.

In 2001, he moved on to become president of H&K International, a Dallas-based supplier of restaurant equipment and a self-described partner of McDonald’s since 1975. H&K originated in Canada in 1971 and took off under Azhadi’s leadership when it evolved into an international supplier to McDonald’s and other restaurant chains.

“He used to vacation in the Okanagan,” Faulkner says. “He was nearing retirement and was looking for a city to live in. He had vacationed here 10 years in a row and he decided this might be the area.” In 2018, he invested in Ex Nihilo Vineyards, a Lake Country winery, and eventually acquired sole ownership. Ex Nihilo now operates independently from Azhadi Vineyards while sharing personnel and resources.

Azhadi Vineyards is far more ambitious project. “Initially, I was only looking for a vineyard,” Mike is quoted as saying. “One cold, snowy day in January 2018, we entered the property, walked about a mile to the top of the granite knoll, and were overwhelmed by the beauty of it all, including a bald eagle flying above. The knoll was situated in the middle of the property and would not be farmable. I named it the “Gratitude Knoll”. I started imagining vineyards surrounding it, overlooking the Okanagan Lake with no view obstruction. That was the moment I felt this was a special place and had a sense of arrival. I needed to share this property to bringing good thoughts, good words, and good deeds to people.”

The property, next to a major housing development, is 42 acres in size, with almost 25 acres planted to vineyard (Riesling, Pinot Noir and Viognier). The winery also has vineyards and contract growers in the South Okanagan for varietals including Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and Shiraz. Yes, the winery owner insists on calling Syrah by the name of its supposed Persian origin.

Photo: Azhadi winemaker Jim Faulkner Jim Faulkner is a veteran winemaker who recognizes that he has been given the opportunity of a lifetime at Azhadi Vineyards. A 1988 graduate in business administration from the Southern Alberta Institute of Technology, Jim soon became interested in Okanagan wines. He enrolled in the winery assistant program at Okanagan College. That led to a job in 2001 as a cellar assistant at CedarCreek Estate Winery. He then spent four years as assistant winemaker at Summerhill Pyramid Estate Winery, followed by three years at Church & State Wines. In 2009, he became head winemaker at Mt. Boucherie Estate Winery where he made award-winning wines and lived through a receivership (not his fault). He joined the Azhadi Group in 2000, starting with Ex Nihilo.

The Azhadi wines are bold and assertive, as one might expect from an experienced and confident winemaker. “I have been using more American oak and quite a bit of Hungarian oak,” Jim says. “The spiciness of the Pinot Noir is from the Hungarian oak. It is something I came across years ago. Not everybody is open to it but Mike said, ‘Just make wine.’ Europe uses a lot of Hungarian oak. Tuscany uses a lot of American oak. I am using a fair amount of American oak, too, with some grapes. I am leaning more Old World in aging and style and barrel selection than I have done in other wineries.” Here are notes on current selections.

Azhadi Chardonnay 2023 ($65 for 5,281 bottles). This wine was barrel fermented and aged 16 months in French oak (47% new). Even so, the winemaker managed to keep the oak notes restrained to a hint of vanilla on the finish. The wine was aromas and flavours of apple and citrus. The finish is elegant. 90.

Azhadi Riesling 2023 ($60 for 7,654 bottles). This wine was aged for 10 months in neutral French and Hungarian barrels. The fleshy texture and soft acidity reflect a hot vintage in 2023. The wine has aromas and flavours of lemon and grapefruit. 90.

Azhadi Pinot Noir 2022 ($80 for 14,557 bottles). This wine was aged in both French and Hungarian oak (30% new). This is a bold, rich expression of the varietal. Aromas of dark cherry and oak mingle with spice and dark fruits on the palate. The finish is long. 92.

Azhadi Pardis 2022 ($85 for 22,893 bottles). The blend is identified only as “noble grapes”. The wine was aged for 22 months in French, American and Hungarian oak (37% new). It is a sturdy wine built for cellaring. The aromas deliver spice and dark fruits, leading to a palate where dark cherry mingles with plum, chocolate and tobacco. 94,

Azhadi Shiraz 2021 ($80 for 10,491 bottles). This wine was aged for 28 months in both French and American oak (21 % new). This is a rich and full-bodied wine. The aromas mingled pepper and dark fruits. On the palate, the dark fruits mix with notes of chocolate and pepper. 92.

Azhadi Cabernet Franc 2021 ($75 for 5,163 bottles). This wine was aged for 28 months in French oak (20% new). The wine also expresses the bold and ripe house style. It begins with aromas of blackberries and dark cherries. On the full palate, there are flavours of dark cherry, plum and mocha chocolate. The finish is persistent. 92.

Bordertown showcases Osoyoos, with a nod to Mt. Boucherie

Photo: Bordertown's Mohan Gill

At a time when many Okanagan wineries are for sale or closing, Bordertown Vineyards & Estate Winery is entering is 11th year as a producer in apparent good shape. The latest releases are wines that score well and drink well. Here from the winery’s website, is some of Bordertown’s history:

For Mohan Gill and his family, the opening of Bordertown Vineyards and Estate Winery in May 2015 was the culmination of a lifetime dream. The Gills built their reputation with over 20 years of experience as growers, supplying some of the Okanagan’s best fruit to a select few wineries and winemakers. Their sun-drenched Osoyoos vineyards are the best place to grow a wide varietal of grapes and are some of the most highly regarded in British Columbia.

The Gills are known for their integrity, attention to detail and impeccable farming skills. Passionate about wine, they turned their dream into a reality by building a family-owned and operated state-of-the-art winery in the heart of Osoyoos wine country. Bordertown wines use top 100% estate grown fruit for wines that highlight the very best of the varietals that flourish in the south Okanagan. Wines are produced by proprietor Mohan Gill, overseen by the expertise of accomplished consulting winemaker Daniel Bontorin, who is helping us develop the Bordertown style, which places an emphasis on fresh fruit flavours.

We’re nestled in the heart of Osoyoos, a border town that has long been celebrated for rich soil and brilliant sunshine. We’re a new generation winery that strives to showcase the distinct regional characters of Osoyoos fruit. We’ve made our home in Osoyoos, a winegrowing region that provides us with the diversity to grow 14 varietals in unique growing conditions. Coupled with Osoyoos’ extended days of heat and sunshine, we think we have wine growing Nirvana. Each spring, our majestic winery comes alive with gorgeous blossoms, brilliant foliage, and the distinctive hues of individual fruits.

These are current or soon-to-come releases:

Bordertown Pinot Gris 2025 ($N/A). This is a delicious wine with aromas and flavours of pear, peach and citrus fruits. The finish is persistent. 92.

Bordertown Sauvignon Blanc 2025 (N/A). This is an expressive wine, with aromas and zesty flavours of tropical fruits. 91.

Bordertown Unoaked Chardonnay 2025 ($N/A). This wine is packed with fruit, especially peaches and apricots. The finish is fresh and long-lasting. 90.

Bordertown Viognier 2025 (N/A). This is a classic Viognier – full-bodied with flavours of guava mingled with grapefruit. 90.

Bordertown Living Desert White 2025 (N/A). This is a complex blend: 52% Muscat, 29% Gewurztraminer, 12% Pinot Gris and 7% Chardonnay. The intense aromatics were still developing in this recently bottled wine. A day after opening, the wine began to show well, with fresh, zesty aromas and flavours of spicy stone fruits. 91.

Bordertown Pinot Noir 2021 ($29). This wine was made with fruit grown in a Mt. Boucherie vineyard. It has aromas and flavours of cherry and raspberry, with classic notes of forest floor and spice on the finish. With a bit of time in a decanter, the silky texture emerges. 90.

Bordertown Pinot Noir 2022 ($N/A). Again, the fruit is from Mt. Boucherie. In the glass, the wine presents with a vibrant and appealing hue and aromas of black cherry and raspberry which are echoed on the palate. The ripe tannins give the wine a sturdy texture, suggesting this is a wine from an outstanding vintage that deserves to be cellared. 92.

After 93 Pinot Noir 2023 ($N/A). After 93, a sister winery to Bordertown, also sourced the fruit for this wine from Mt. Boucherie. The delicious fruit-driven wine begins with aromas of cherry, raspberry and blackberry. The flavours are vibrant and lively, with notes of cherry and spice. There is a delicate hint of pepper on the silky finish. 93.

Bordertown Merlot 2021 ($24 for 421 cases). The estate-grown fruit is from Bordertown’s Osoyoos vineyards. This is a big, ripe wine that was aged 12 to 18 months in French oak. It begins with aromas of cassis, blueberry and dark cherry, which is echoed on the generous palate. 92.

Bordertown Living Desert Red 2021 ($N/A for 644 cases). This is an exceptional blend of 38% Cabernet Franc, 33% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot and 5% Syrah. After ferment, the wine was aged 12 to 18 months in French oak. In the glass, it begins with aromas of cassis, cherry and raspberry. The palate delivers dark cherry and black currant with a hint of chocolate. 94.

Bordertown Malbec 2021 ($35 for 1,025 cases). The fruit for this wine was grown in a vineyard on the East Bench Osoyoos. After fermentation, the wine was aged 12 to 18 months in French oak. This is a dark wine with perfumed aromas of cherry and blackberry. The palate delivers flavours of plum and other dark fruits mingled with leather and a hint of pepper. 91.

Bordertown Cabernet Franc Reserve 2021 ($N/A for 1,220 cases.) Made with grapes grown in Osoyoos, the wine – after a long ferment – was aged 20 to 24 months in French oak. It begins with vivid aromas of blackberry, dark cherry and spice, all of which is echoed on the luscious palate, 93.

Black Widow's wines impress

Photo: Winemaker Dick Lancaster in the Black Widow cellar

The wines from the Naramata Bench’s Black Widow Winery hold a special interest for me because the winery’s co-founder, Dick Lancaster, and I once belonged to the same amateur winemaking club. I reached a certain level of proficiency before conceding that commercial producers were way ahead of me. And Dick had become one of the best Okanagan winemakers. Three of his current red wines show how accomplished he has become.

I recounted his amazing journey to wine in one of the early Okanagan Wine Tour books. Here is an excerpt.

In the summer of 2000, while looking for a getaway cottage with a few vines, Dick and Shona Lancaster saw this property on Naramata Road. At three hectares (7½ acres), it was bigger than what they were looking for but, with producing vines and a panoramic view of Naramata Bench and the lake, it was too good to turn down. “Classic up-selling,” Dick says of the realtor. “And as soon as we got a vineyard, the goal was to set up a winery.”

Born in Toronto in 1953, Dick was raised in Montreal, picking up an interest in wine from his father, Graham, then Air Canada’s food services manager. Dick began making wine from wild grapes while still in high school. A three-month tour of European wine regions in 1976 sealed that interest. In Vancouver, where he and Shona lived from 1970 until moving to the Okanagan a few years ago, Dick was an award-winning home winemaker for more than 25 years.

You could call Dick a polymath, given all the skills he has acquired. Starting in biology, he earned a master’s degree. Disillusioned by the lack of well-paying jobs, he took a real estate course, then sold cars and became district manager for a leasing company. Then he got a master’s degree in business administration and finally qualified as an accountant. From 1992 until 2008, he was a vice-president with Imasco Inc., western Canada’s largest stucco manufacturer. Naturally, Black Widow’s gravity-flow winery, which he designed, is finished in tawny-hued stucco. “How can I not use stucco?” he says with a laugh. The vineyard already had Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris and Schönburger when the Lancasters bought it. In 2001 they added Merlot and a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon, selling grapes to Kettle Valley winery until launching Black Widow in 2006. “We like wines that have some real flavour and character to them, and that comes from really ripe grapes,” Dick says. Targeted production is 1,200 cases a year.

The winery is named after the indigenous desert-dwelling spider that is, fortunately, so shy it is seldom seen. The insect should be avoided because the bite (only females bite) is highly venomous.

Here are notes on three top reds from Black Widow.

Black Widow Hourglass 2022 Reserve ($55 for 220 cases). This is a blend 75% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon an 8% Cabernet Franc, aged 21 months in French oak. Aromas of cassis jump from the glass. The wine has a rich palate with flavours of black cherry and black currant. 94.

Black Widow Red Back Reserve 2022/2023 ($N/A for 225 cases). This is a blend of equal portions of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Merlot, blended from two vintages. The wine begins with aromas of dark fruits, leather and chocolate, which is echoed on the palate, mingled with a hint of black licorice. 91.

Black Widow Cabernet Sauvignon 2023 Reserve ($60 for 110 cases). This was aged 21 months in French oak. This is a polished wine with aromas of cassis, dark cherry and spice, leading to flavours of dark cherry mingled with chocolate. 93.