Writer and wine columnist John Schreiner is Canada's most prolific author of books on wine.
Tuesday, January 7, 2025
Little Engine is powering through a difficult vintage
Photo: Little Engine's Stephen and Nicole French
Stephen and Nicole French set very high standards for a Little Engine Wines when they opened in 2016 on a Naramata Road vineyard.
Wines were released as silver, gold or platinum wines, with the object of getting 60% of the wines to the platinum standard as soon as viticulture allowed that level of quality. Everything was going to plan until the damaging freeze in January 2024 interrupted the progress.
Naramata Bench vineyards suffered production losses but it seems likely the vines will rebound in the 2025 season. Little Engine’s harvest of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from the estate was about a third of the normal harvest.
“We are however very optimistic about 2025 for our estate vineyards as well as our leases here in Naramata,” writes marketing director Natasha Sadowy. “The vines are looking healthy and we take the upmost care of them through meticulous organic and sustainable methods, so we anxiously await to see what the winter and spring bring.”
“Our small harvest from this year will be used to create our Silver Chardonnay and a Member Exclusive Rosé,” Natasha continues. “We have most of our 2022 and 2023 wines still to be released so we decided to NOT to bring in fruit from anywhere else this year.”
Merlot on the Naramata Bench showed freeze-related decline in 2024. “We have also seen a loss on our Merlot vines here on the Naramata Bench, but we are hoping to add some new vineyards to the 2025 season which should bring some Merlot back into production for us.”
The news has not been so good from Little Engine’s contract growers in the Oliver/Osoyoos area, which there was damage not just to the fruit production but, in some instances, to the vines.
“Sadly, the losses down south makes this is the end of our Sauvignon Blanc program for the foreseeable future,” Natasha says. “Our 2023 Silver Sauvignon Blanc is the final release, so it is a Wine Club Exclusive.”
Here are notes on new releases from Little Engine from vintages prior to 2024:
Little Engine Silver Chardonnay 2023 ($43 for 800 cases). This wine combines portions fermented in stainless steel and portions fermented in neutral barrels. The wine is fruit forward, with aromas of apples and other orchard fruits. On the palate, there are flavours of apple and peach which a hint of vanilla. 91.
Little Engine Gold Chardonnay 2021 ($59 for 357 cases). The wine was fermented in French oak and aged 17 months on the lees in French oak (50% new). The wine begins with aromas of ripe apple, nectarine and vanilla. The wine is rich on the palate with flavours of stone fruit perfectly integrated with notes of oak. 92.
Little Engine Platinum Chardonnay 2022 ($97 for 100 cases). This is a bold and rich Chardonnay with a golden hue in the glass. A portion of the fruit had 12 hours of skin contact before being pressed. Fermentation was long and cool in French oak barrels; and the wine was aged 18 months French oak puncheons. The wine begins with aromas of orange marmalade mingled with vanilla and shortbread. The palate delivers flavours of marmalade, ripe peach, and nectarine. The finish just goes on and on. 94.
Little Engine Silver Pinot Noir 2021 ($46 for 781 cases). The grapes were fermented in one-ton fermenters, with a total maceration time (including a seven-day cold soak) of three weeks. The wine was aged 14 months in barrel (none new). The wine begins with aromas of cherry and strawberry. The palate is firm, delivering flavours of cherry, spice and forest floor. 90.
Little Engine Gold Merlot 2020 ($68 for 557 cases). This wine was aged 16 months in French oak (55% new). The wine begins with aromas of cassis, blackberry and spice, leading to intense flavours of dark fruits mingled with notes of herbs and spices on the finish. 92.
Little Engine Platinum Merlot 2022 ($115 for 95 cases). This is an exceptional wine, as it should be for the price. The wine was aged 16 months in French oak (75% new). The wine is bold and intense, beginning with aromas of cassis. There are layers of flavour on the palate, including black currant, blueberry, dark cherry and spice. 95.
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