40 Knots is a "top-flight" winery

Photo: Brenda Hetman-Craig and Layne Craig (courtesy of 40 Knots)

Winemaker Kalem Magny joined 40 Knots Vineyard & Estate Winery in the summer of 2023. In the vintage that fall, he stamped his mark on the industry by making a top-flight Vancouver Island Pinot Noir. Pun intended. The winery’s 40-acre vineyard is within earshot of the Comox air force base. It was planted, beginning in 2007, by Bill Montgomery, a retired owner of a tugboat company. He eventually discovered he had taken on more than he wanted to manage and put the winery on the market. In 2014, it was acquired by an energetic husband and wife team from Fort St. John, Layne Craig and Brenda Hetman-Craig.

They provided some background on a early website: “Layne, who grew up on a Saskatchewan farm wanted to put his love of the land into play, while Brenda wanted to put her business management skills toward building a successful family business, one that would ultimately involve their grown children. It was an added bonus for Layne, a pilot, that the Comox air force base is nearby. Planes can often be seen overhead adding to the force of energy that surrounds the site.”

Initially, they relied on an Okanagan winemaker, Matt Dumayne, to make their wines until his full-time job at Okanagan Crush Pad Winery precluded consulting winemaking. Kalem Magny has a bachelor of science degree in biochemistry from Brock University (2016) and is a 2018 graduate of the winemaking course at Niagara College. He started his British Columbia career as a cellar hand at Laughing Stock Vineyards in 2018, moving on to Quails’ Gate Estate Winery and then spent three years as assistant winemaker at Road 13 Vineyards before moving to 40 Knots.

The opportunity at 40 Knots involves making one of the largest portfolios on Vancouver Island. The two estate vineyards, totalling 24 acres, grow Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Auxerrois, Schönburger, Siegerrebe, Maréchal Foch, Castel and, of course, Pinot Noir. 40 Knots also buys grapes from grower vineyards, including one on Quadra Island. 40 Knots is one of the most northerly wineries on Vancouver Island. However, its location near the moderate east cost of the island enables it to succeed with cool climate varietals in its vineyards. The terroir also is suited to the production of crisp Champagne-style sparkling wines.

Here are notes on three recent releases.

40 Knots Pinot Noir 2022 ($45 for 800 cases). This wine was made with clone 777 fruit from the estate vineyard. The fruit was destemmed without crushing. During fermentation, the cap was punched down two or three times a day. The wine was aged in an amphora. It is a light to medium-bodied wine. Aromas of cherry are echoed on the palate, along with flavours of red currant and cranberry. The texture is silky. 88.

40 Knots Classic Pinot Noir 2023 ($75 for 800 cases). The wine is made with clone 777 and clone 115 grapes. The grapes were harvested over a period of seven weeks, allowing the winemaker to select fruit at its prime. The fermentation process began with a cold soak of four to seven days. The wine was aged in a variety of vessels, including an amphora. The wine begins with aromas of raspberry, cherry and spice. There is good weight on the palate, with flavours of cherry and pomegranate. The finish lingers. 92.

40 Knots Spindrift Extra Brut 2021 ($47 for 356 cases). This is a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. This is a traditional method sparkling wine which was en tirage almost two years. There is a delicate note of brioche in the aroma and on the palate, where it mingles with tangy notes of apple and citrus. The wine has a crisp, refreshing finish. 90.