Ruffino: historic Chianti producer at Vancouver International Wine Festival

Photo: Ruffino brand ambassador Beppe d'Andrea

It would be hard to think of a Tuscan winery more strongly identified with Chianti than Ruffino. No doubt, that is one reason why it was among the large contingent of Italian wineries at the recent Vancouver International Wine Festival. Ruffino was represented by its veteran brand ambassador, Beppe d’Andrea. There is an extensive portfolio of 14 Ruffino wines in the BC Liquor stores; and elsewhere in this market. I would bet there is not an Italian restaurant in B.C. without at least one Ruffino wine in the list; and likely more than one. That reflects how long Ruffino has been a major exporter to this and other North American markets with quality wines at sensible prices. Ruffino was the first producer to export Chianti to the United States.

The winery was founded in 1877 by brothers Ilario and Leopoldo Ruffino. They soon established a reputation with gold medal winning Chianti wines. That resulted in Ruffino being named an official wine supplier to the Italian royal family. In turn, that led to the release in 1927 of what became its signature Chianti, branded as Riserva Ducale to acknowledge the patronage of the royal house. The winery was purchased in 1913 by the Folonari family. At the time, Ruffino probably was better known for Chiantis offered in traditional flasks wrapped in straw. I don’t know when that packaging was abandoned. I do remember buying it but I never used the empty flask as a candle holder. Many others did.

Beppe d’Andrea began his career at Ruffino in 1987 when the winery still was owned by the Folonaris. Beppe began working in the vineyards but soon moved to the cellars, first making white wines and then graduating to Chianti Classico and other red wines while also qualifying as a sommelier. His ability as a raconteur led to his appointment as Ruffino’s brand ambassador in 1995.

The Ruffino winery and its estates were acquired in 1999 by Constellation Brands, the big American wine and conglomerate. The Canadian market will recall that Constellation, on the way to becoming the world’s largest wine company, once also owned Vincor International and its brands here (Jackson-Triggs, Sumac Ridge, See Ya Later Ranch and others). In the last decade, Constellation’s Canadian wineries were repatriated by Alterra and are back under Canadian management.

Ruffino, however, remains under Constellation ownership. Beppe says that it is an arms-length relationship. “Constellation is the owner but we manage the company, not someone from Constellation,” he says. “The company is Italian. But it is important to be part of a big company. We talk to the other winemakers … how we can improve; what do they do in California or Oregon or New Zealand. We can share information on how to improve. This is why it is important to be part of a big brand.”

Chianti has changed profoundly since the days of the flasks in straw baskets. “A long time ago, Chianti Classico was always a blend, since 1700, when the regions was created,” Beppe says. “The rule then was that Chianti Classico was a blend of two red grapes, Sangiovese and Canaiolo, and two white grapes, Trebbiano and Malvasia. Then it changed again. In the 1990s, most of the producers including Ruffino, started to use some international varietals [Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot] in blends, giving the wines a different taste.” He continues: “Now, we are going back – not using white grapes but using indigenous red grapes. We are mostly using Sangiovese, Canaiolo Nero, Colorino, Malvasia Nera. We would like to more identify the wine with the place where we make it. The taste has changed a lot in the last several years.” In addition to avoiding French varietals, Ruffino also has stopped aging most of its red wines in French oak barriques. The wines are now aged in large casks, mostly neutral Slovenian oak, another reason why the fruit in today’s Chianti wines is more vibrant.

Ruffino began converting its vineyard to organic practices in 2006 and expects to be fully certified organic by 2025. The winery has switched its eight estates to solar power. “All company cars are electric,” Beppe says. “And we are pushing the company to move as fast as possible to electric tractors. We have to do everything possible to improve the quality of the life, not just the quality of the wine.”

Here are notes on some of the wines that Ruffino has in this market, either from my tastings at the festival or from the BCLDB website.

Ruffino Aqua di Venus Pinot Grigio 2022 ($26.99). The grapes for this wine are from a Ruffino estate in Friuli. This is one of the best Pinot Grigio wines I have tasted: refreshing with notes of lime, peach and citrus. 91.

Ruffino Chianti ($14.99). This is the successor to Chianti in the straw-clad flask. BCLD describes it thus: “Floral notes of violet on the nose lead to fruity flavours of plum, sweet cherry and a lightly spicy finish. Medium-bodied, this red shows fresh fruit on the finish.”

Ruffino Il Ducale Toscano 2018 ($21.99). The BCLDB describes it thus: “Dark ruby in colour, this wine is made predominately of Sangiovese, with a touch of Merlot and Syrah. The flavour is rich with aromas of dark plum, black cherry, spice and notes of cassis and chocolate. On the palate, it is well-balanced with pleasant acidity, fruit intensity and round tannins.”

Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale 2017 ($27.99). The BCLD says this wine “opens to a lean raspberry or ruby color with bright aromas of tart cherry and wild plum. This is a recognized, well-traveled wine and a mini-ambassador for Chianti Classico around the world.”

Ruffino Modus 2020 ($34.99). This is a classic Super Tuscan wine: a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (aged in French oak), Merlot and Sangiovese. This is a big, bold wine, with lots of dark fruit flavours mingled with notes of oak. 92.

Ruffino Gran Selezione Riserva Ducale Oro 2019: $52.99. Gran Selezione is a classification created in 2014 that sits at the top of the Chianti Classico range. The wines must be made entirely from estate-grown grapes, with a minimum of 80% Sangiovese and an extra six months aging in cask. Various wine critics have scored this wine between 91 and 94 points. I was impressed by the concentrated flavours of dark fruits. The BCLDB says: "This shows notes of dried cherries and red plums with cured meat, dried sage and tree bark undertones. Medium- to full-bodied with plenty of structure. Ripe and velvety tannins with a fluid and polished mid-palate. Flavourful and intense." 92.

Ruffino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Romitorio di Santedame 2015 ($70.99). The BCLD quotes a Wine Advocate review: "Showing a ripe and robust personality, the 2015 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Romitorio is a wine of depth and dimension. The wine exhibits a polished and fine bouquet of aromas with wild cherry, red rose petal, spice and crushed rock at the front. It shows a dry, polished texture with plenty of fruit-driven endurance.”