Poplar Grove launches its first Pinot Noir

Photo: Poplar Grove's Tony Holler

The debut Pinot Noir that will be released by Poplar Grove Winery in late June is long overdue from this 30-year-old Penticton winery which built its stellar reputation around Bordeaux reds, Syrah, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris.

The Penticton winery has been run since 2008 by Summerland-born Tony Holler, his wife Barb and their four sons. Poplar Grove was founded initially by Ian Sutherland and produced its first vintage in 1996 from a Naramata Bench vineyard planted with Merlot and Cabernet Franc. That set the template for the varietal wines and blends the winery began to release. Tony Holler was a successful pharmaceutical entrepreneur when he moved from Vancouver back to the Okanagan, purchasing a lakefront property northeast of Penticton. A wine collector with a 5,000-bottle cellar, he was already a Poplar Grove customer. He retained Ian to look after the vineyard on the property he had bought and he jumped at the opportunity to buy the boutique Poplar Grove when it came onto the market.

“Because we did not know what we were doing, Barb and I decided to take a trip around the world and talk to wineries,” Tony admitted at a recent dinner where the Pinot Noir was launched. They were advised against keeping the winery at its boutique size. To be a sustainable business capable of handling hard knocks, it needed to produce 25,000 cases a year. Poplar Grove today has the capacity to produce much more and, consequently, the strength to deal with the vineyard devastation of the last two winters. At a time when a quarter of Okanagan’s wineries are for sale, Poplar Grove’s deep inventory of wines keeps it in business and supporting the ownership’s five families.

The impetus to add Pinot Noir to the Poplar Grove portfolio came from a New Zealand winemaker, Blair Walters of Felton Road Winery, a friend of the Hollers. He arranged to have Poplar Grove host a dinner seven years ago for Okanagan winemakers with experience in New Zealand. Blair expressed surprise that Poplar Grove was not making Pinot Noir.

“A lot of people assumed I did not like Pinot Noir,” Tony said. “But our winemaker, Stefan Arnason (left), had the attitude that we are making eight wines and we are doing a good job of it. Why would we risk making another wine and possibly not do as good a job. After some convincing, Stefan said, okay, if you find the right land, I am behind you.” In 2017, the Hollers purchased a 13-acre orchard at the south end of the Naramata with the right terroir for Pinot Noir. The Hudson Vineyard, as it is called, was planted in 2019 with six clones of Pinot Noir: 091 (or Pommard clone), 667, 777, 114, 115, and 828. The first harvest in 2021 was made entirely into rosé while the second harvest produced the debut Pinot Noir table wine. As well, there is also an 88-case reserve, Hudson Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022, which may see a limited release in the future.

Having put his skepticism aside, Stefan, Poplar Grove’s cellarhand and winemaker since 2008, convinced the Hollers to put a dedicated Pinot Noir production facility in a 3,000-square-foot corner of the winery’s warehouse. He recognized that Pinot Noir grapes needed to be handled differently from the other red varietals. And the project was given to Dan Marshall (right), Poplar Grove’s assistant winemaker, who developed a singular focus on Pinot Noir. In short, the Hollers have done everything right for the Pinot Noir project by dedicating a vineyard, a separate production area and a winemaker to it. As the vines mature, the Pinot Noir will only get better. The 2022 wine has already won gold medals in three international competitions.

While the severe freeze last January devastated many Okanagan vineyards, the Hollers are seeing their 140-acres of vineyards come to life this spring. There may not be much fruit at harvest but the Hollers will not need to do much replanting. In fact, Tony believes that no vineyard on the Naramata Bench will need replanting because the Okanagan Lake moderated the freezing temperatures last winter. As well, the Oliver vineyards did not suffer as much damage as vineyards elsewhere in the Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys. By a lucky chance, Osoyoos Lake did not freeze over as usual last winter because the fall and earlywinter had been unusually mild until the January freeze. While the lake is shallow, it may have moderated the freeze a bit. In addition to launching the Pinot Noir, Poplar Grove has also begun releasing library wines, starting with Legacy 2014. This is the winery’s flagship Bordeaux blend, first made in the 2004 vintage. “When Barb and I bought the Poplar Grove winery, it was very tiny and we had no wine to put into a library,” Tony said. “We only made hundred of cases of each. But as we grew, we kept remembering an experience [in a Bordeaux chateau] where someone could come to the winery and taste older vintages. So, in 2012, we decided to set aside two palettes of all our red wines and have a 10-year release program.”

Legacy 2014 is a blend of 44% Cabernet Franc, 24% each of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% each of Malbec and Petit Verdot. The Legacy is eminently collectible. The 2014 is quite fresh, with appealing aromas of cassis giving way to layers of dark fruits. Properly stored, the wine will still be drinking well at its 20th birthday. Expect the library wines to be released to Poplar Grove’s wine club. Here are notes on the Pinot Noirs.

Poplar Grove Pinot Noir 2022 ($34.70). This wine incorporates six clones: 091 (or Pommard), 114, 115, 667, 777 and 828. The wine, which was aged in French oak (25% new), is elegant with a silky texture and a long finish. It begins with aromas of cherry and spice, leading to flavours of raspberry, cherry and plum. The feminine delicacy of the wine is typical of fruit from a young vineyard. 92. Poplar Grove Hudson Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022 (Not released). This is a blend of two clones (777 and 828) from the best barrels. The aromas and flavours of dark cherry, plum and spice are more intense, showing the potential of the vineyard to produce a great Pinot Noir. 94.