Pentâge dips into earlier vintages for latest releases

Photo: Paul Gardner and Julie Rennie

Pentâge Winery in Penticton has a record of making interesting wines because the owners, Julie Rennie and Paul Gardner, grow 19 varietals in their 35 acres of vineyards. That includes some varietals rarely seen in the Okanagan, including Tempranillo, a major red in Spanish vineyards.

“Spain is the kingdom of Tempranillo, a kingdom that extended to 206,988 ha (511,478 acres) in 2008, making it the country’s most widely planted red wine variety,” according to Wine Grapes, the great 2012 reference by Jancis Robinson and colleagues. The book has an extensive three-and-a-half-page entry on the grape. It noted that it has come to be planted around the wine-growing world, even including Texas. “The variety’s abilities to withstand hot summers and cold winters is appreciated here.” That line gives me some hope that Pentâge’s Tempranillo (and the other 18 varietals) survived the devastating January freeze. “Currently, the status of our vineyards remains uncertain,” Julie wrote in response to a recent query I sent to her. “We’re eagerly awaiting May/June to observe bud burst. While we’ve noticed some varietals bleeding, signaling positive signs [of vine life], we’re still assessing - not sure of health of the buds.”

Fans of Pentâge wines, and Okanagan wine in general, will be holding their breath for a few more weeks. Meanwhile, Pentâge is among the producers with a strong inventory from recent vintages. The current four releases sent to me included three from the excellent 2018 vintage. Here are notes on the wines.

Pentâge Viognier 2018 ($26.09). Fermentation on this wine began in stainless steel, with three-quarters then moved to a second-fill French oak barrique. The oak portion completed partial malolactic fermentation naturally in barrel. The result is an exquisitely-balanced wine, with aromas of apricot, pineapple and vanilla. The palate echoes the aromas with the addition of citrus notes. 92.

Pentâge Gamay 2022 ($22.61). Half of this wine was aged 13 months in French oak puncheons (second and third fill) and half was aged in stainless steel. The wine has aromas and flavours of cherry, plum and spice, with a delightful hint of pepper on the mid-palate. 92.

Pentâge Hiatus 2018 ($23.48). This is a blend of 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Petit Sirah, 15% Cabernet Franc, 15% Zinfandel and 5% Merlot. Each varietal was aged separately for 18 months in new and used French and American oak before being blended. This is a brooding wine with aromas of dark berries. Layers of flavour open as the wine breathes (I tasted this over several days). There are notes of plum, dark cherry, black currant. 91.

Pentâge Tempranillo 2018 ($29.56). This wine was fermented in four different batches with three different yeasts. It was then aged 18 months: half in neutral American oak and half in French oak (one-third new). This delicious wine begins with aromas of cherry, plum and spice. The palate delivers flavours of black cherry and black currant mingled with notes of strawberry. The finish is long and elegant. 93.