Photo: Seaside Pearl's David Zimmerman
David and Allison Zimmerman, who opened Seaside Pearl
Farmgate Winery in May 2017 near Abbotsford, are practical people.
Allison once operated a shop called Seaside Pearl on the
beach at White Rock. Since she still owned the name, she and David simply
transferred it to their new winery.
The winery, of course, is some distance from the seaside.
But it is one of three wineries in a cluster in Abbotsford’s Mount Lehman
district. David believes the cluster will become larger because several small
vineyards in the area also are considering opening wineries.
The two other wineries currently operating nearby are Mt.
Lehman Winery, which opened in 2009 and Singletree Winery, which opened in
2015. Both are on Mt. Lehman road while Seaside Pearl’s location at 5290 Ohlund
Road is just east of Mt. Lehman Road.
The three wineries all are within five minutes of each
other, making for a very convenient afternoon of wine touring a beautiful rural
setting. On a clear day, the views extend across the valley, with Mt. Baker
prominent among the mountains.
The Zimmermans moved from the Ocean Park district of South
Surrey in 2011, choosing to settle on acreage in the Mount Lehman district.
Both have portable skills. David, who was born in Vancouver and who grew up in
Kamloops, trained as a tool and die maker at the BC Institute of Technology and
then moved on to mining. Latterly, he and several partners have a gold property
in northern BC. Currently, they are recovering placer gold but plan to drill
the property.
Allison was born in Trinidad and Tobago but has lived in
Canada since she was 13. She is an entrepreneur with expertise in sales and
real estate.
“We always wanted to be on some acreage,” David says. “We
kept looking and we found this place, because our daughter is into horses, and
we have some horses here. Then we had all this land out front and no
agricultural status for farm tax status. We have always been interested in wine
and grapes, so we decided to plant grapes.”
At the time, Fraser Valley vineyard development was being
promoted by David Avery, who had opened an Abbotsford area winery in 2002. He
and a partner were promoting the planting of hybrid vines that had been
developed in Switzerland and were said to be suited to the growing conditions
of the Fraser Valley and Vancouver Island.
David Zimmerman was one of the property owners who ordered
vines from David Avery. On a field in front of the current wine shop, David
Zimmerman in 2012 planted a large block of a white hybrid called Petit Milo. On
a small plot behind the tasting room, he planted a red hybrid called Cabernet
Foch.
Then David Avery’s winery, called Lotusland, failed,
stranding growers like the Zimmermans who had expected to sell their grapes to
Lotusland. So the Zimmermans, eminently practical, took the next step and fulfilled
an ambition to have their own winery.
They recruited consulting winemaker Mark Simpson. While he
made an early vintage at his BC Wine Studio custom crush facility in the
Okanagan, the Zimmermans turned a portion of the farm’s rambling stables into a
processing facility and a barrel room. With an eye to future tasting events,
the high-ceiling barrel room has been equipped with chandeliers above a long,
sturdy table. The effect is rustic baronial.
The tasting room at Seaside Pearl is a separate building,
styled to resemble a chapel (left). It is a cozy room but the winery’s picnic license
and its barrel cellar both have the capacity to handle overflow crowds.
The wines, made from both Fraser Valley and Okanagan grapes,
are released under labels celebrating the rich history of the Fraser Valley.
For example, there is a red blend called Landing Road. The
winery explains the name is inspired “by one of the scenic roads that wander
through the Fraser Valley’s stunning Wine Country. Early settler Sam Lehman
built a network of trails surrounded by rich farmland. The trail leading from
the wharf at Lehman’s Landing was called Landing Road.”
There is a Sam & Isaac Pinot Gris. The winery explains:
“Sam and Isaac Lehman arrived on the banks of the Fraser River in 1873. Upon
arrival they were quickly enamoured with the beautiful surroundings and the
potential of the fertile land. Sam and Isaac set to work clearing the land and
building a wharf for a riverboat to have access to the farming riches of the
area, now called Mount Lehman.”
The sparkling wine is called Daffodils because the flowers
were an early crop in the area. Charlotte, as the Petit Milo is called, was the
wife of a horticulturist who encouraged daffodil growing.
Clearly, the Zimmermans have become immersed in the lore of
the Mount Lehman regions.
David Zimmerman took me through a tasting of reds in the
barrel cellar that were not bottled at the time of my visit. These include an
excellent 2016 Landing Road Red Blend and solid 2017 reds – Cabernet Foch,
Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc and Syrah. The wines merit a second visit when they
are released.
Here are notes of the current releases.
Charlotte Estate
Petit Milo 2016 ($22). This white has aromas and flavours of citrus and
guava. It manages to have a plump mouthfeel but also a crisp and dry finish.
90.
Fraser Gold
Chardonnay 2016 ($27). This unoaked Chardonnay is made with Okanagan
grapes. It begins with aromas of citrus leading to flavours of apples. The
finish is crisp. 88.
Matsqui Prairie
Gewürztraminer 2016 ($25). Slightly off dry, this wine has aromas and
flavours of spice and lychee, with a fleshy texture and a long finish. 90.
Sam & Isaac Pinot
Gris 2016 ($22). This wine has aromas and flavours of pear and apple, with
a spicy note that creates a dry, zesty finish. 89.
Daffodils Sparkling
White Wine 2017 ($25). A carbonated sparkler, this is a blend of Petit
Milo, Chardonnay and Muscat. The latter variety adds a spice note to the citrus
flavours and aromas. 90.
Lover’s Lane Cabernet
Sauvignon 2015 ($35). This is a ripe and rich wine, with aromas of cassis
and flavours of black currant, black cherry and chocolate. 90.
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