Clos du Soleil: Bordelaise in the Similkameen

Photo: Managing director Michael Clark

Clos du Soleil Winery is one of the leading producers in the Similkameen Valley. Opened in 2008, the winery began as a venture by four professional couples with a shared admiration of Bordeaux wines. Accordingly, the original vineyard and most of the subsequent vineyards the winery developed are dedicated primarily to Bordeaux varietals. Michael Clark, the winery’s winemaker and managing director, joined the Clos partnership in 2012, also bringing a fine Bordeaux consciousness to the production in spite of previously have been a banker and a bond dealer.

Michael, who was born in Cambridge, Ontario, in 1972, describes wine as “my number one passion literally before I could drink wine. When I was a kid, I was fascinated with wine. Champagne is for Breakfast – I read that book when I was probably 10 years old. I don’t know other children who loved to read wine books.” The reference is the delightful introduction to wine by the late George Bain, a columnist for The Globe & Mail. It was published in 1972 and still is available on Amazon. Initially, Michael set out on a career in theoretical physics with bachelor’s degree from Queens University and then a master’s degree from the University of British Columbia. Then he switched to finance with a master of business administration from UBC, where he also founded a campus wine tasting society. “Then I worked in finance in Canada and in the U.S. and Switzerland, for about 15 years.” That included eight years with two Swiss banks where, while holding senior positions, he committed to winemaking by taking winemaking and viticulture courses there in 2010. He then gained experience by doing crushes at wineries in Switzerland and in Bordeaux.

In 2011, he enrolled in the rigorous winemaking program from the University of California at Davis. While still in Europe, he began researching British Columbia winemaking opportunities before making Clos Du Soleil his choice. Consulting winemaker Ann Sperling had made the first five vintages before handing over to Michael. He is a very capable winemaker, so detailed-oriented that he has sometimes described himself as a worrier. With wines like this, there is nothing to worry about. Here are my notes.

Clos du Soleil Winemaker’s Series Pinot Blanc 2020 ($20.90 for 463 cases). The fruit, from the winery’s Middle Bench Vineyard, was fermented entirely in stainless steel. This is a textbook expression of the varietal – crisp, fresh and focussed with aromas and flavours of apple, pear and citrus. 91.

Clos du Soleil Winemaker’s Series Chardonnay 2020 ($24.90 for 352 cases). The fruit for this wine comes from the winery’s La Côte Vineyard. Fermentation was 50% in stainless steel, 50% in oak puncheons. Only 30% of the barrels were allowed to go through malolactic fermentation, thus preserving the acidity and the refreshing brightness of the wine. It begins with aromas of apple, pear and quince, echoed on the palate. The wine has good weight with a backbone of minerality. 91.

Clos du Soleil Fumé Blanc 2020 ($20.90 for 700 cases). This is 74% Sauvignon Blanc, 26% Sémillon. The fruit, all from the Dhaliwal Brothers Vineyard near Oliver, was lightly crushed and left on the skins for three hours to extract more flavour. The varietals were fermented separately in stainless steel and French oak puncheons. The wine was aged on the lees for four months before being blended. Aromas and flavours of lime and grapefruit mingle with herbal notes. The finish is persistent. 91.

Clos du Soleil Rosé 2020 ($22.90 for 658 cases). This is a rare and interesting example of a Malbec rosé, with fruit from the La Côte Vineyard. The wine is fashionably pale, with flavours and aromas of rhubarb, strawberry and cherries. It is crisply dry with a refreshing lift from the tangy acidity. 91.

Clos du Soleil Signature 2018 ($47.90 for 473 cases). This is 42% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Cabernet Franc, 5% Malbec and 2% Petit Verdot. The wine was fermented on concrete tanks with indigenous yeast. It was then aged 16 months French oak barrels, with the best barrels selected for what is the winery’s flagship red. It spent another year in bottle before release. The wine begins with appealing aromas of cassis, blackberry and blueberry. There is rich and complex fruit expression the palate, with flavours echoing the aroma and mingled with black cherry and mint. Long, ripe tannins give the wine a polished elegance. 94.

Clos du Soleil Estate Reserve Red 2017 ($53 for 95 cases). This wine was fermented in concrete with wild yeast; each variety was vinified separately, matured 18 months in French oak and then blended. The wine begins with aromas that mingle herbs and spice with black currant, cherry and cigar box. On the palate, there are flavours of black currant, blackberry, plum, spice and dark chocolate. This is a sophisticated and complex wine with the structure to age. For current consumption, decanting is recommended. 95.