Blue Mountain superb 2019 Pinot Noirs

Photo: Blue Mountain's vineyard with special blocks flagged

In the announcement releasing these wines, the Mavety family, which owns Blue Mountain Vineyard & Cellars, notes that this is the winery’s 30th anniversary. “We have been striving to produce high-quality wines that reflect the site in which the grapes are grown,” the announcement says. “2021 marks 50 years of farming on our estate and 30 years of making wine.” They have learned enough over the years to identify the best blocks in the vineyards. For three vintages, beginning with 2016, Matt Mavety, the winemaker, has been producing superb single block Pinot Noirs.

“The idea of single block wines at Blue Mountain is not new,” the winery explains. “We have been tasting the wines in this manner for many years as we blended them into our estate and reserve cuvées, but in recent years our winemaking process, the business, and the vines themselves have all matured to a point where sharing these single vineyard wines is possible. By focusing on what makes each single vineyard block unique, these wines offer a different taste of what you have come to know as Blue Mountain. Each wine is a unique expression of its own site within our estate, yet distinctly a Blue Mountain Pinot Noir.”

There is the block now called River Flow. Winery notes relate: “Planted in 1994, Block 23 rises majestically from the earth upon high ground from sandy loam soil. The vineyard’s almost northern exposure, combined with gentle, east-facing slopes exposes the vines to cool morning sun, allowing the vines to develop gently and undisturbed, between sun and soil crafting Blue Mountain’s River Flow. This is Pinot as nature intended - a refined, elegant, and composed Pinot Noir.”

There is a block called Wild Terrain. Winery notes relate: “Wild Terrain Pinot Noir, also known as the untamed sibling, represents the most extreme and varied topography of the Pinot Noir blocks from steep slopes exposed to the wind, to sun-drenched, flatter plains over loamy sand. Significant south-western exposure reveals a wild complexity, at once handsome and delicately pretty, savoury, and boldly free.” Finally, there is the block called Gravel Force. Winery notes relate: “A more westerly and southern exposure creates a warm site for the 30-year-old vines, the basis for Gravel Force– an overt, brooding, and textural wine with a more masculine structure, and strength. Combining a base of rocky gravel, loamy sand, and more clay than other Blue Mountain Pinot Noir vineyards, Block 14 encourages strong natural growth and vigour.”

These Pinot Noirs – like all Blue Mountain Pinot Noirs – are fermented with indigenous yeast so that the wines best express the terroir. All are aged in barrel on the fine lees; but the oak never dominates the flavours. The current releases also include an estate Pinot Noir and a blended reserve Pinot Noir. Here are notes on the wines.

Blue Mountain Estate Cuvée Pinot Noir 2019 ($35). This wine is made with fruit from 13-year-old vines. This is a wine with vibrant and youthful with aromas and flavours of cherry and raspberry mingled with a light note of spice on the lingering finish. 90.

Blue Mountain Reserve Cuvée Pinot Noir 2019 ($45). This wine is made with fruit from vines that are 22 to 35 years old. This is altogether a weightier wine. Even the aromas of cherry and mocha are fuller. The wine is rich on the palate, with silky tannins and flavours of cherry and plum. 92.

Blue Mountain Wild Terrain – Block 9 Pinot Noir 2019 ($55). The fruit is from 22-year-old vines. The wine is savoury, with aromas and flavours that Pinot lovers sometimes call “forest floor.” Cherry flavours mingle with earthy and mineral undertones. 94.

Blue Mountain Gravel Force – Block 14 Pinot Noir 2019 ($55). The fruit is from 32-year-old vines. This is a dramatic, expressive wine with aromas and flavours of cherry, raspberry, plum, mocha and spice. The intense fruit flavours remain on the palate for some time. 96.

Blue Mountain River Flow – Block 23 Pinot Noir 2019 ($55). The fruit is from 27-year-old vines. This is a sensuous expression of Pinot Noir (a fellow taster said feminine). There are aromas of plum, leading to plum and cherry flavours and a silky texture. 95.