Phantom Creek recruits Napa's Mark Beringer

Photo: Director of winemaking Mark Beringer (courtesy Phantom Creek)

The first vintage at Phantom Creek Estate Winery in 2016 was made under the direction of Anne Vawter, a renowned California winemaking consultant. The next three vintages were under the direction of New Zealander (but Australian-trained) Ross Wise MW. When he moved on to be the senior South Okanagan winemaker for Andrew Peller Ltd., Phantom Creek recruited another New Zealand winemaker, Francis Hutt. As well, a team of European consultants led by Olivier Humbrecht MW from Alsace have had a major role in making the white wines.

While those consultants remain in place, Phantom Creek has returned to California for its senior winemaker, appointing Mark Beringer as director of winemaking last month. It would be hard to find a more storied name in California winemaking. He is the great-great-grandson of Jacob Beringer, one of the founders of the Napa Valley’s Beringer Vineyards. In its announcement, Phantom Creek wrote: “As the direct descendant to Beringer’s first winemaker and steward of one of the most iconic family names in California wine history, Mark knew from a young age that he would follow in the footsteps of his forefathers. After receiving an Enology degree from California State University in Fresno, he spent a year in the cellars at Benziger Family Winery in Sonoma before joining Duckhorn Vineyards as an enologist in 1992, where he worked his way up to Vice President of Winemaking. In 2009, Mark joined Artesa as Vice President and Winemaker. In 2015, Mark Beringer returned to his namesake Beringer Vineyards, joining as Chief Winemaker and following in the footsteps of acclaimed Winemaker Emeritus Laurie Hook.”

The announcement quotes Mark on his assessment of the Okanagan and the opportunity before him here: “The Okanagan Valley really excites me as it shows so much potential and there is an incredible opportunity to help this region achieve global recognition. Phantom Creek Estates has invested significantly in acquiring some of the region’s most acclaimed and historic vineyards, technology, architecture and talent, so I believe that the winery will be the premier property in the region, if not Canada, and that’s a goal I’m inspired to be a part of.”

Owned by Richter Bai, a China-born Vancouver businessman, Phantom has been a 45,000-square-foot destination winery on Black Sage Road since it began welcoming visitors in 2020. It is grandly sited at the crest of what the 52-acre Becker Vineyard and owns additional vineyards nearby. As well, the winery developed the 62-acre Evernden Springs Vineyard in the Similkameen Valley and purchased a 44-acre vineyard, now called the Kobau Vineyard, on the Golden Mile. The experiences available to visitors range from walk-ins at the tasting bar through a series of ever more elaborate tours, capped by a three-hour helicopter tour. Lunch is also available at a restaurant under a chef with Michelin-starred experience.

The wines certainly match the ambition of the owner to make, as he once said, the best wines in Canada. Here are notes on recent releases.

Phantom Creek Chardonnay 2019 ($40 for 350 cases). This wine was fermented and aged 10 months in French oak (20% new). The wine begins with aromas of butter and citrus. Rich on the palate, the wine delivers flavours of apple mingled with stone fruit and mandarin orange. 91.

Phantom Creek Viognier 2018 ($40 for 660 cases). This powerful wine was fermented with indigenous yeast and matured in a combination of stainless steel and oak. It begins with aromas of apricot and pear, leading to flavours of apricot and guava. The texture is rich and the alcohol seems a little higher than the stated 13.5%. 90.

Phantom Creek Pinot Gris 2018 ($33 for 1,022 cases). The wine was fermented slowly over four months and then matured 12 months in oak casks (40%) and stainless steel (60%). A richly textured wine, it begins with aromas of pear and apple mingled with vanilla, leading to flavours of pear and stone fruit. The length of the finish is exceptional. 93.

Phantom Creek Riesling 2018 ($33). This wine was fermented with indigenous yeast, with the ferment allowed to last six months, preserving the fruitiness. The wine was matured in stainless steel. The wine begins with aromas of lemon mingled with floral notes. On the palate, the wine is fresh and crisp, with flavours of lemon and lemon meringue with a dash of honey but a dry, food-friendly finish. 92.

Phantom Creek Rosé 2020 ($30 for 1,100 cases). This delicious rosé is a blend of Merlot 40%, Cabernet Franc 30%, Syrah 15%, Malbec 10%, and Cabernet Sauvignon 5%. The wine, which was fermented with indigenous yeast, begins with aromas of strawberry and strawberry jam. There is more strawberry on the palate, where the texture is fleshed out with about five grams of residual sugar. 91.

Phantom Creek Vineyard Malbec/Petit Verdot 2017 ($N/A for 96 cases). This is a wine club exclusive. The blend is 80% Malbec and 20% Petit Verdot, and the grapes were co-fermented. The wine, which was fermented and aged 20 months in French oak, begins with aromas of plum, fig and spice. On the palate, this richly textured wine delivers flavours of dark cherry, plum, fig and liquorice. 92.

Phantom Creek Petite Cuvée 2017 ($45 but sold out). The blend is Cabernet Franc 45%, Cabernet Sauvignon 31% and Merlot 24%. The wine begins with aromas of blueberry, cassis, black cherry and mocha. Rich on the palate with silky tannins, the wine delivers blueberry, black cherry and cassis flavours. The finish is quite persistent. 94.

Phantom Creek Cabernet Franc Merlot 2017 ($Sold out). This is 68% Cabernet Franc and 32% Merlot. The wine was aged 19 months in French oak. This is a concentrated wine, beginning with aromas of cassis and vanilla. On the palate, there are flavours of black cherry and fig mingled with notes of oak. 93.

Phantom Creek Block 12 Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($90). Block 12 is an exceptional vineyard on the Black Sage Bench. The wine is elegant, beginning with aromas of cassis, blueberry and black cherry. On the palate, there are flavours of black currant, black cherry, spice, dark chocolate and cedar. The finish is very long. This is an age-worthy wine. 93.