Blue Mountain champions Pinot Blanc

Photo: Blue Mountain winemaker Matt Mavety

Pinot Blanc was perhaps the most successful of all the varietals in the Becker project, which ran from 1977 t0 1985 to determine vinifera grapes suitable for the Okanagan. Among the early adopters of the variety was Ian Mavety, the Okanagan Falls grower who, with his family, founded Blue Mountain Vineyard and Cellars. As a result, his winemaker son, Matt, had grapes from mature 35-year-old Pinot Blanc vines when he made an especially superb Pinot Blanc table wine in 2020. In the specification sheet, Matt says that vines are German clones. The late Dr. Helmut Becker likely provided vine stock to the Okanagan from the Geisenheim Research Institute. The grapes would have been grown under their German name, Weissburgunder. Wineries here quickly switched to using the French varietal name, Pinot Blanc, which is a lot more marketable.

Pinot Blanc plantings in British Columbia have long since been outstripped by Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and perhaps even by Riesling. That was despite the advocacy for the varietal by Barbara Philip, British Columbia’s first Master of Wine. Her thesis tried to make the case for Pinot Blanc as a signature grape for the Okanagan. No matter: consumers were more interested in other whites. However, Blue Mountain’s 2020 Pinot Blanc makes quite a convincing case for the varietal. This is one of the finest white table wines yet from Blue Mountain.

Here are notes on that wine and three other current releases.

Blue Mountain Pinot Blanc 2020 ($25). The wine begins with aromas of peach, apricot and apple with a subtle and complex note of the lees. The pristine flavours include peach and apple. The wine is exquisitely balanced and ends with a long, crisp finish. 93.

Blue Mountain Pinot Gris 2020 ($25). The wine was fermented (with indigenous yeast) 46% in 45 hectolitre oak casks, 37% in 500 litre oak barrels and 17% in stainless steel. The barreled wines were aged in oak for six months before all wines were blended. The wine begins with aromas of mandarin orange and pear, leading to flavours of orange, apple and spice. There is good weight on the palate; and the finish is persistent. 92.

Blue Mountain Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($25). This wine was fermented (with native yeast) 85% in a 45 hl oak cask, 7% in barrels and 8% in stainless steel. When fermentation was done, the wine aged on the fine lees for five months. The wine has aromas of herbs mingled with lime. Rich in texture, the wine delivers tangy flavours of lime and grapefruit. 92.

Blue Mountain Gold Label Brut 2017 ($28). The blend is 57% Pinot Noir, 39% Chardonnay and 4% Pinot Gris. The wine aged sur-lie for 24 months and was then disgorged. It is finished crisply dry. The wine presents in the glass with fine and active bubbles. Lightly toasty on the nose, the wine has pristine flavours of citrus and apple. This is a very elegant wine and stunningly good value among traditional method sparkling wines. 93.