Peak Cellars Unoaked Chardonnay and friends

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Winemaker Stephanie Stanley

It is a winemaking tradition to turn Chardonnay into a “noble” wine by fermenting it in French oak, or at least aging it in French oak. I have no problem with that. Chardonnay lends itself as a canvass upon which creative winemakers paint wondrous wines. Consequently, unoaked Chardonnay does not get a lot of time in the sun. A case in point in the covering letter from Stephanie Stanley, the winemaker at Peak Cellars Winery in Lake Country, with the samples she released in late spring. There was a full paragraph on Riesling and another full paragraph on Gewürztraminer and Pinot Gris but not a word on her unoaked Chardonnay. As my review indicates, this is easily the finest unoaked Chardonnay from any Okanagan winery this year. You might consider ordering a case of this wine, to be enjoyed during these warm summer evenings. I will bet there is a bottle or two on Stephanie’s table this summer.

I can understand why her letter devoted space to the three other white varietals that Peak has. These are important varietals in the vineyards; and they also are well made wines. “Many of you may already know that I am a bit of an acid-hound when it comes to food and wine,” she writes. “I also happen to love Riesling, so it should come to you as no surprise that we released a Dry Riesling as well as a 100% Riesling Sparkling wine made by the traditional method. As such, we now have four different styles of Riesling, a remarkable tribute to the King of white grapes.” The Peak’s vineyards are blessed with several soils and exposures, meaning that the grapes from each block are sufficiently distinctive that differing wines can be produced. “We really began to explore and exploit the variations with the 2020 vintage,” she wrote. “Why limit yourself to only one style of Pinot Gris or Riesling when you can make many? … At Peak Cellars, there is a wine for everyone.” Including those of us who love unoaked Chardonnay when it is done this well!

Here are notes on the wines.

Peak Cellars Sparkling Riesling NV. ($38). This is a traditional method sparkling wine that was only one year on the lees. Hence, the delicate fruit aromas and flavours - think lemon and lemon zest – that command the centre of attention. 92.

Peak Cellars Goldie White 2020 ($22). This is a co-fermented field blend of Pinot Gris, Riesling and Gewürztraminer. The wine begins with appealing aromas of spice, pear and citrus. On the palate, there are tangy flavours of green apple and lychee with savoury herbal notes on the crisp finish. 90.

Peak Cellars Sun Kissed Pinot Gris 2020 ($30). My companion taster described this as a wine “with a big loud voice.” With a pale blush hue, the wine presents well in the glass. It has aromas of apple and melon which jump from the glass. There is more apple on the palate, along with a medley of fruit flavours. The finish is crisp and dry. 90.

Peak Cellars Unoaked Chardonnay 2020 ($24). This is the best unoaked Chardonnay in the Okanagan from the 2020 vintage. Floral aromas mingle with apple and pear. The palate delivers a basket of fruit, including peach, apple and citrus. Bright acidity accents the wine’s refreshing appeal. 93.

Peak Cellars Gewürztraminer 2020 (na). This has subdued aromas of spice with flavours of lychee and stone fruit. 88.

Peak Cellars Broken Granite Gewürztraminer 2020 ($30). This is a weighty Alsace-style wine, beginning with aromas of spice and orange zest. The palate has a slightly oily texture, with flavours of ginger mingled with mandarin orange. 90.

Peak Cellars Riesling 2020 ($24). The wine begins with a fresh squeeze of lemon on the nose. There is more fresh lemon on the palate, along with lime, green apple and mineral notes. The finish is tangy but well-balanced. 90.

Peak Cellars Terraces Dry Riesling 2020 ($30). This a complex Riesling that begins with elusive aromas. With time in the glass, notes of lemon and pineapple emerge. On the palate, there are flavours of lemon and orange zest. The finish is quite dry. The wine is structured to age and still be drinking well in 2030. 93.

Peak Cellars Block 11 Riesling 2020 ($28). The aroma signals an intense wine, with aromas of lemon meringue. There is good weight on the palate, supporting flavours of peach, lemon and apple. The finish goes on and on. 92.

Peak Cellars Grüner Veltliner 2020 ($24). This needs several more months in the bottle to allow the subdued aromas to develop. The wine delivers a medley of savoury fruit flavours, with a crisp finish. 91.

Peak Cellars Pinot Noir Rosé 2020 ($24). The bright coral hue is quite lovely in the glass. The wine begins with aromas of strawberry and strawberry compote. On the palate, it delivers flavours of strawberry, cranberry and rhubarb. The finish is bright and refreshing. 90.

Peak Cellars Pink Granite Rosé 2020 ($30). This is also made with Pinot Noir. The hue is slightly more subdued but still attractive in the glass. The wine begins with aromas of strawberries that are echoed on the palate, along with flavours of red apples and a hint of cranberry. The finish is dry and crisp. 91.