Bordertown and other Osoyoos wineries still open

Photo: Bordertown's Mohan Gill

Like every other Osoyoos winery this summer, Mohan Gill’s Bordertown Vineyards & Estate Winery, will be enduring a challenging year, thanks to the Nk’Mip Creek wild fire. To be sure, the fire has been raging on the far side of the valley, well away from Bordertown’s vineyards and winery. Unless fire breaks out on the west side of the valley, the major impact likely will be a reduction in the number of wine tourists this month in the tasting room. After all, the mayor of Osoyoos has advised tourists to stay home so the hotels are free to receive evacuees. While the fire caused sporadic closure of various Osoyoos and Black Sage Bench winery tasting rooms, many have once again re-opened their tasting rooms. For example, a consider this recent positive email from Phantom Creek Estates winery: “I’m getting in touch on behalf of Phantom Creek Estates to let you know that despite the recent wildfires and evacuations, the winery is back open and every member of the team is safe,” a winery spokesperson wrote.

Bordertown has been pro-active. On its website, the winery wrote: “Last Friday, we arranged for Paul Johnson of Global News to include Bordertown as part of his Okanagan wildfires segment. Many tourists had planned to come to Osoyoos for recreational, vacation-type experiences which were likely compromised by the fires and smoke. The fires definitely impacted wineries and tourism.” However, the winery’s tasting room supervisor gave an interview to Global, reassuring viewers that the wine shop is still open for business. For those who have postponed visits to Osoyoos, the wines of Bordertown and the other fine Osoyoos wineries are generally available in private wine stores and BC liquor stores.

Bordertown, which is located beside the highway at the northern edge of Osoyoos, has grown steadily since producing 3,000 cases of wine in 2013, its first vintage. In the 2020 vintage, Bordertown made 10,000 cases of wine, with a plan to reach 40,000 cases a year when all of Mohan’s 100-plus acres of vineyards are producing. Here are notes on some of the current releases.

Bordertown Desert Sage The White 2018 ($N/A). This is a blend of Grüner Veltliner and Muscat with a small percentage of Gewürztraminer. This aromatic wine has aromas of white raisins mingled with herbal notes. On the palate, there are flavours of ripe apple, pear and honeydew melon. The finish is crisp and dry. 88.

Bordertown Living Desert White 2018 ($18). This complex wine is a blend of 32% Muscat, 28% Riesling, 21% Grüner Veltliner, 10% Gewürztraminer and 9% Pinot Gris. The wine begins with aromas of pear and apple mingled with spice. The palate is a veritable fruit salad, with flavours of stone fruit, apple and citrus. The finish is dry and lingering. 90.

Bordertown Pinot Gris 2019 ($20). The wine begins with aromas of pear and guava. On the palate, the texture is rich, with flavours of pear and citrus. The wine is dry, with a persistent finish. 91.

Bordertown Living Desert Red 2017 ($27 for 995 cases). The blend is 28% Syrah, 22% Cabernet Franc, 22% Malbec, 12% Petit Verdot, 9% Merlot and 7% Cabernet Sauvignon. This is quite an expressive wine, with aromas and flavours of cassis, cherry and blueberry with additional notes of smoked meat and chocolate on the palate. The tannins are soft, the texture is generous and the finish, with a touch of white pepper, is persistent. 91.

Bordertown Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($33 for 600 cases). This is a classic Cabernet Sauvignon, with plenty of grip; it benefits from decanting. It has aromas of black currant, mint and cherry. The mint mingles on the palate with dark berry flavours. 90.

Bordertown Merlot 2018 ($25). This wine begins with aromas of cassis, blueberry and cherry. These are echoed in the sweet fruit flavours on the palate, along with an intriguing hint of tobacco. The silky tannins lead to a long finish. 91.