Tyler Harlton’s TH Wines might become an example of the
collateral damage caused by Alberta’s ban on British Columbia wines.
TH Wines is an artisanal producer in Summerland making about
2,000 cases of always interesting wines. Tyler, who is a Saskatchewan native,
has attracted numerous customers in Alberta and Saskatchewan since opening the
winery in 2012. His wines are in a substantial number of restaurants and wine
stores in Calgary, Edmonton, Banff and Canmore.
Recently, the owner of an Edmonton restaurant called Clementine
outlined his opposition to the wine ban in an interview with a Vancouver radio
station. He singled out three BC wineries currently on his wine list: Laughing
Stock Vineyards, Bella Wines and TH Wines. He hopes – who doesn’t? – that the
ban will be rescinded before he needs to replenish the restaurant’s stock of
wines.
The ban, of course, has nothing to do with the quality of BC
wines. Alberta Premier Rachel Notley picked on the BC wine industry in response
to BC Premier John Horgan’s recent moves to delay, if not stop entirely, the
Kinder Morgan oil pipeline expansion.
I think it is outrageous for Alberta to take its frustration
out on the wine industry. It is especially outrageous when small producers like
TH Wines become collateral damage.
"As
chance would have it, I have events coming up in Calgary and likely Edmonton," Tyler told me. "We still have the support of all of our restaurant customers and the wine is
being allocated to cover obligations."
I tasted Tyler’s portfolio last August, in a visit to his
rustic winery, which is tucked away in a Summerland industrial park. The
subject of oil pipelines never came up.
For some background on Tyler and his winery, here is an
except from John Schreiner’s Okanagan
Wine Tour Guide.
A law school semester
in Paris in 2007 cemented Tyler Harlton’s passion for wine. He spent his
weekends in French wine regions where he even helped pick grapes. “Seeing the
vines in France really connected with me,” says Tyler, who was born in
Saskatchewan in 1976 and grew up on a wheat farm. “I had that in my background.
The wine industry is sophisticated and popular but at the same time it has an
agricultural tradition.”
When he graduated from
McGill law school in 2008, he articled with a Penticton law firm to be near the
Okanagan’s wine industry. In short order, Tyler decided against a career in law
and became a picker and then a cellar hand at Osoyoos Larose Estate Winery. He
moved to the cellar at Le Vieux Pin in 2009 and to Dirty Laundry Vineyards in
2010 while planning for himself a holistic agricultural lifestyle including a
winery.
He crafted a strategy
allowing him to open a winery with limited capital. For a processing facility,
he leases about 139 square meters (1,500 square feet) in an industrial building
next to Ripley Stainless Ltd., the major supplier of tanks for the wine
industry. He has handshake agreements with growers in the south Okanagan for
top quality grapes. And he operates the winery under a commercial license that,
unlike a land-based winery license, does not require him to be based on his own
vineyard.
Since that was written, he has added a compact tasting room
at the winery. In fine weather, however, he might still host tastings at a
picnic table in the shade or on top of a barrel in the winery.
He continues to buy his grapes since he does not have a
vineyard of his own. His methods for sourcing fruit can be ingenious.
“I always have my ear to the ground,” he says. “Winemakers
from larger wineries will give me a tip about a grower, so I have a little
capacity to do something fun. I am just working hard to make better wines. I
spent a lot of time tasting BC wines and seeing what is here. I spend time
visiting neighbours to see what is out there and what potential hasn’t been
tapped yet.”
Most of the wines we tasted together last August are sold
out but here are my notes. The releases
from TH Wines this year will generally be similar varietals.
TH Riesling 2015 ($27.99
for 289 cases). This is just the second Riesling that TH Wines has made. It
fermented for nine months, ending up totally dry. The texture is rich. The
citrus aroma has a hint of petrol. On the palate, there are flavours of pear
and citrus with a spine of minerality. 89.
TH Viognier 2016
($27.99 for 391 cases). Tyler believes that Viognier is “an interesting grape
for the Okanagan.” It is hard to disagree with that on tasting this wine. It
begins with appealing stone fruit aromas. On the palate, there are flavours of
apricot and peach, with a refreshing acidity that gives the wine a lively
finish. 91.
TH Rosé 2016 ($N/A).
This dry rosé is made with Cabernet Franc and Merlot grapes. It begins with a
rose petal hue and aromas of strawberry, leading to flavours of strawberry and
plum. 90.
TH Pinot Noir 2015
(Sold out). Aromas of cherry and strawberry lead to flavours of cherry and
plum, with a hint of oak on the finish. The texture is silky. The wine was aged
nine months in barrel (mostly neutral oak). 90.
TH Cabernet Franc
2015 (Sold out). While this is sold out, a 2016 has been released at
$34.99. The 2015 was excellent, beginning with brambly aromas that led to a cornucopia of red
berry flavours and a spicy finish. 91.
TH Malbec 2015 (Sold
out). Tyler made just 200 bottles of this Malbec with organic fruit from a
grower on the Golden Mile. The wine was sold just to the TH wine club. The wine
is packed with red berry flavours. 90.
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