Photo: The stunning Azhadi winery

The talk of the Okanagan this spring will surely be Kelowna’s Azhadi Vineyards, both for its Persian-inspired architecture and for its well-crafted wines. The winery, which opened in February and is owned by Mike Azhadi and his wife, Janet, is perched on a hilltop at the very north end of Kelowna, with a view over Okanagan Lake. The design is dramatic, as is the interior which is adorned with the family’s collection of Persian art and rugs. There is a restaurant on site as well; I have not had a chance to visit it.

Some credit belongs to the McDonald’s chain of restaurants. Who would have guessed? Mike, who was born in Iran, graduated in engineering from Laurentian University in 1984 and, after a brief with a science upstart, went to work for McDonald’s. Jim Faulkner, Azhadi’s winemaker, picks up the story: “He had an engineering degree and was working at R &D [research and development] with his firm when there was a downturn. When there are financial problems, you don’t need R&D. They shut down his department, He needed a job. McDonald’s was hiring, so he tried them.” He may have been one of the most successful hires ever by McDonald's. He was soon promoted to executive posts with the Canadian arm of the chain.

In 2001, he moved on to become president of H&K International, a Dallas-based supplier of restaurant equipment and a self-described partner of McDonald’s since 1975. H&K originated in Canada in 1971 and took off under Azhadi’s leadership when it evolved into an international supplier to McDonald’s and other restaurant chains.

“He used to vacation in the Okanagan,” Faulkner says. “He was nearing retirement and was looking for a city to live in. He had vacationed here 10 years in a row and he decided this might be the area.” In 2018, he invested in Ex Nihilo Vineyards, a Lake Country winery, and eventually acquired sole ownership. Ex Nihilo now operates independently from Azhadi Vineyards while sharing personnel and resources.

Azhadi Vineyards is far more ambitious project. “Initially, I was only looking for a vineyard,” Mike is quoted as saying. “One cold, snowy day in January 2018, we entered the property, walked about a mile to the top of the granite knoll, and were overwhelmed by the beauty of it all, including a bald eagle flying above. The knoll was situated in the middle of the property and would not be farmable. I named it the “Gratitude Knoll”. I started imagining vineyards surrounding it, overlooking the Okanagan Lake with no view obstruction. That was the moment I felt this was a special place and had a sense of arrival. I needed to share this property to bringing good thoughts, good words, and good deeds to people.”

The property, next to a major housing development, is 42 acres in size, with almost 25 acres planted to vineyard (Riesling, Pinot Noir and Viognier). The winery also has vineyards and contract growers in the South Okanagan for varietals including Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and Shiraz. Yes, the winery owner insists on calling Syrah by the name of its supposed Persian origin.

Photo: Azhadi winemaker Jim Faulkner Jim Faulkner is a veteran winemaker who recognizes that he has been given the opportunity of a lifetime at Azhadi Vineyards. A 1988 graduate in business administration from the Southern Alberta Institute of Technology, Jim soon became interested in Okanagan wines. He enrolled in the winery assistant program at Okanagan College. That led to a job in 2001 as a cellar assistant at CedarCreek Estate Winery. He then spent four years as assistant winemaker at Summerhill Pyramid Estate Winery, followed by three years at Church & State Wines. In 2009, he became head winemaker at Mt. Boucherie Estate Winery where he made award-winning wines and lived through a receivership (not his fault). He joined the Azhadi Group in 2000, starting with Ex Nihilo.

The Azhadi wines are bold and assertive, as one might expect from an experienced and confident winemaker. “I have been using more American oak and quite a bit of Hungarian oak,” Jim says. “The spiciness of the Pinot Noir is from the Hungarian oak. It is something I came across years ago. Not everybody is open to it but Mike said, ‘Just make wine.’ Europe uses a lot of Hungarian oak. Tuscany uses a lot of American oak. I am using a fair amount of American oak, too, with some grapes. I am leaning more Old World in aging and style and barrel selection than I have done in other wineries.” Here are notes on current selections.

Azhadi Chardonnay 2023 ($65 for 5,281 bottles). This wine was barrel fermented and aged 16 months in French oak (47% new). Even so, the winemaker managed to keep the oak notes restrained to a hint of vanilla on the finish. The wine was aromas and flavours of apple and citrus. The finish is elegant. 90.

Azhadi Riesling 2023 ($60 for 7,654 bottles). This wine was aged for 10 months in neutral French and Hungarian barrels. The fleshy texture and soft acidity reflect a hot vintage in 2023. The wine has aromas and flavours of lemon and grapefruit. 90.

Azhadi Pinot Noir 2022 ($80 for 14,557 bottles). This wine was aged in both French and Hungarian oak (30% new). This is a bold, rich expression of the varietal. Aromas of dark cherry and oak mingle with spice and dark fruits on the palate. The finish is long. 92.

Azhadi Pardis 2022 ($85 for 22,893 bottles). The blend is identified only as “noble grapes”. The wine was aged for 22 months in French, American and Hungarian oak (37% new). It is a sturdy wine built for cellaring. The aromas deliver spice and dark fruits, leading to a palate where dark cherry mingles with plum, chocolate and tobacco. 94,

Azhadi Shiraz 2021 ($80 for 10,491 bottles). This wine was aged for 28 months in both French and American oak (21 % new). This is a rich and full-bodied wine. The aromas mingled pepper and dark fruits. On the palate, the dark fruits mix with notes of chocolate and pepper. 92.

Azhadi Cabernet Franc 2021 ($75 for 5,163 bottles). This wine was aged for 28 months in French oak (20% new). The wine also expresses the bold and ripe house style. It begins with aromas of blackberries and dark cherries. On the full palate, there are flavours of dark cherry, plum and mocha chocolate. The finish is persistent. 92.