Fort Berens supplemented Lillooet grapes with Washington fruit in 2024

Photo: Fort Berens CEO Heleen Pannekoek

The severe cold snap in January 2024 that devastated the Okanagan vineyards did not spare Lillooet where Fort Berens Estate Winery is based. In the 2024 vintage, the two estate vineyards produced 45 tons of fruit, about 30% of a normal harvest. To supplement the harvest, Fort Berens bought 68 tons of grapes from Sagemoor Vineyards in Washington State. Seth Jex, the assistant winemaker at Fort Berens, supervised the pick, the crush and the fermentation in Washington. The wines were then transported to Lillooet and finished by Alex Nel, who had stayed to supervise the vintage from the Lillooet vineyards.

Heleen Pannekoek, Fort Berens’s co-founder and chief executive, writes: “This approach allowed us to supplement our estate production, navigate climate-related challenges, keep our team employed, maintain consistent offerings for our customers, and keep our business alive.” She adds: “We’re happy to report that our estate vineyard is in great shape this year. It’s still very early in the season, but we are projecting about two-thirds of a normal crop, as the vines are being retrained.” Here are notes on the wines.

Fort Berens Here & There Pinot Gris 2024 ($24.49 for 1,000 cases). The fruit is from Washington’s Wahluke Slope AVA. The crushed fruit had four hours of skin contact before a long, cool fermentation and four months aging on the lees. The wine begins with aromas of nectarine and pear leading to refreshing flavours of nectarine, peach and citrus. 90.

Fort Berens Here & There Chardonnay 2024 ($24.99 for 1,250 cases). This wine was made with Washington fruit. Thirty percent was aged four months in French oak barrels while 70% was aged on the lees in tank. The two lots were then blended. This is a delicious wine with a light hint of oak supporting aromas and flavours of peach and nectarine. 91.

Fort Berens Here & There Riesling 2024 ($22.99 for 600 cases). This wine was made with Washington fruit. The crushed grapes were given 12 hours of skin contact and a long, cool ferment that was stopped by lowering the temperature. A touch of residual sweetness is balanced with bright acidity. The wine begins with aromas of lemon and grapefruit. On the palate, it is a bowl of tropical fruit flavours. The finish is crisp and fresh. 90.

Fort Berens Here & There Rosé 2024 ($23.49 for 1,300 cases). The fruit is from old Shiraz vines (planted 1997) in Washington’s Wahluke Slope AVA. The grapes were allowed six hours of skin contact, resulting in an appealing rose petal hue to the wine in the glass. It has aromas and flavours of cherry, strawberry, watermelon and pomegranate. 90.

Fort Berens Small Lot Merlot 2022 ($32.99 for 282 cases). This wine was made with estate fruit. The grapes were given a two-day cold soak with regular pump-overs during fermentation and three days of post-ferment maceration on the skins. The wine was aged 15 months in French oak barrels (12% new). It begins with aromas of plum, dark cherry and spice. These are echoed on the palate and on the long finish. 91.

Fort Berens Meritage Reserve 2021 ($43.99 for 294 cases). This wine is made with fruit from the winery’s estate vineyards. The blend is 42% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc and 33% Cabernet Sauvignon. The grapes were given a two-day cold soak with regular pump-overs during fermentation and an eight-day maceration on the skins. The wine was aged 15 months in French oak barrels (50% new). A richly textured wine, it has aromas and flavours of cherry, plum and spice. There is a hint of dark chocolate on the long finish. 92.

Fort Berens Meritage 2022 ($29.99 for 1,855 cases). This wine is 70% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Cabernet Franc. This wine is made with 40% estate-grown fruit and 60% Osoyoos fruit. Each varietal was vinified and barrel-aged separately for 15 months before the winemaker made the final blend. This is an elegant wine with aromas and flavours of dark fruit and cassis, with long, ripe tannins enhancing the long finish. 92.

Fort Berens Cabernet Franc 2022 ($32.99 for 971 cases). The substantial production of this wine was the result of the winery’s new Red Rock Vineyard coming into production. The grapes were given a two-day cold soak with regular pump-overs during fermentation and a nine-day maceration on the skins for colour and fine tannin extraction. The wine was aged 15 months in French oak barrels (10% new). The wine has aromas and flavours of blackberries and dark cherry with a note of spice on the finish. 91.

Fort Berens Red Gold Reserve 2021 ($49.99 for 149 cases). Winemaker Alex Nel, who joined Fort Berens the previous year, put his stamp on the cellar with this big and bold red from selected estate-grown fruit. The blend is 51% Cabernet Franc, 16% Merlot and 33% Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine was aged 15 months in new French oak barrels. The wine begins with aromas of dark cherry, cassis and cigar box. The flavours of dark fruit and spicy oak seduce the palate. 95.