Checkmate 2021 Merlots

Photo: Winemaker Philip McGahan

When Australian-born winemaker Phil McGahan was recruited from a job in Sonoma to launch CheckMate Artisanal Winery in 2013, he focussed it on Chardonnay and Merlot. These were among the leading varietals in the South Okanagan vineyards operated by Anthony von Mandl, the owner of CheckMate, Mission Hill and other top Okanagan wineries.

“The choice for a red wine came down to one of the Bordeaux varietals,” Phil told me in a 2018 interview. “We felt that Merlot was the one we can ripen consistently. It also has that unique character here in the valley that you can really make an exceptional wine with it. Cabernet Franc --- you can do great things with it in the valley. And a lot of people are doing great things with Syrah. But Merlot gave us the best options.”

“We accepted that Chardonnay and Merlot are a non-traditional pairing but it is all about the winery and where we are,” he continued. “We are responding to the environment that we have.” CheckMate is currently releasing its 2021 Merlots, one of the latter few vintages made by Phil McGahan before he returned to his native Australia for family reasons. With the help of assistant winemakers on the ground in the Okanagan, Phil managed to keep his hand in at CheckMate through the 2022 vintage. He now manages a winery in the Australia state of Victoria.

CheckMate’s cellar was taken over early in 2023 by Penticton-born Spencer Kelly (pictured). He had trained in California and worked there with several top wineries before returning to the Okanagan. Unfortunately for Spencer, the devastating January 2024 freeze in Okanagan vineyards meant no grapes are available to CheckMate this vintage from it usual sources. This summer, Spencer returned to make wine in the Napa Valley with a boutique producer there.

It is safe to assume that CheckMate will not be making wine this year with imported fruit, given that its wines have always had the imprint of specific South Okanagan vineyards. The winery, which recently capped the membership of its wine club, will rely on its deep inventory of age-worthy wines to get through this time. Here are notes on current releases – if you are lucky enough to get some. The winery’s elegant tasting room has been open all season.

CheckMate Black Rook Merlot 2021 ($100). The fruit for this wine is from the Black Sage Bench. The grapes were fermented with wild yeast and allowed extended skin contact. The wine was aged 20 months in new French oak. The oak is well integrated with the wine, framing concentrated, almost brooding, flavours of dark fruits mingled with chocolate and spice. The structure suggests this is a good wine to cellar. 94.

CheckMate Silent Bishop Merlot 2021 ($100). The fruit is from vineyard benches on the west side of the Okanagan valley (Oliver Benches, Golden Mile Bench, Osoyoos West Bench). Fermented with wild yeast, the wine was aged 20 months in new French oak. Aromas of raspberry and red currant jump from the glass leading to flavours of dark cherry and black currant mingled with chocolate. Long ripe tannins give the wine a persistent finish. 96.

CheckMate End Game Merlot 2021 ($100). The fruit, from vineyards on the Osoyoos and Black Sage Benches, was fermented with wild yeast and allowed extended skin contact. The wine was aged 20 months in new French oak. There are aromas and flavours of dark cherry and blueberry. The rich and well-structured wine lingers on the palate. 96.

CheckMate Opening Gambit Merlot 2021 ($100). The fruit, from Osoyoos East Bench, was fermented with wild yeast and allowed extended skin contact. The wine was aged 20 months in new French oak. The wine begins with aromas of raspberry and cassis. The expressive palate includes flavours of dark cherry mingled with dark chocolate and spice. The finish is very long. 97.