Hillside's Mosaic and friends

Photo: Hillside winemaker Kathy Malone

Hillside Winery’s Mosaic is one of the oldest Bordeaux blend Icon wines in the Okanagan. The first vintage was created in 2003 by Eric von Krosigk, then the winemaker. Hillside had just come under new management and wanted a flagship wine that could make a statement. I included Mosaic in my 2017 book Icon: Flagship Wines from British Columbia’s Best Wineries. Here is an excerpt.

The first three vintages were primarily blended with grapes from the South Okanagan. Hillside only began planting its Hidden Valley Vineyard, now an important source for Merlot, in 2002 in the hills above the winery. Since 2006, however, Mosaic has been made entirely with Naramata Bench grapes. “Before I came here, I would not have thought that was wise,” says winemaker Kathy Malone. She came to Hillside in 2008 from Mission Hill, where she had worked primarily with South Okanagan fruit, not Naramata grapes. She is now one of the strongest advocates of the Naramata terroir. “I love the type of ripeness we get on the Naramata Bench,” she says. In the 2010 and 2011 vintages, Hillside lost one source of Naramata Bench Cabernet Franc. Rather than compromise on the winery’s commitment to terroir, Kathy made those two vintages with no Cabernet Franc in the blend. That varietal returned to the wine in 2012 when Hillside secured a new source. The 2006 vintage was the first Mosaic to win a gold medal (at the Northwest Wine Challenge). While fermenting Naramata fruit exclusively brought the first upgrade to Mosaic, subsequent advances also reflected winemaking changes. Early vintages spent only nine months aging in French and American oak barrels. By 2008, barrel-aging had been extended to 13 months. Now the wine spends at least 14 months in barrel, all in French oak, and more than a quarter of the barrels are new.

The current Mosaic is from the 2017 vintage, still a firmly structured wine that took several days to open up. This is a collectible wine for long-term cellaring. Today, all the wines in the Hillside portfolio are made exclusively with Naramata Bench grapes. Here are notes on some current releases. I was struck by the consistency of the quality.

Hillside Muscat Ottonel 2022 Heritage Collection ($26). This varietal was first planted here in 1984. The fruit was allowed overnight skin contact. The juice was then fermented and matured in stainless steel. The wine begins with delicate aromas of rose petals and spice. The flavours are remarkably intense – spice, slight note of ginger and exotic tropical fruits. The finish is off-dry but with lovely balance and good length. 92.

Hillside Pinot Gris 2022 Heritage Collection ($35 for 365 cases). The fruit was allowed three hours of skin contact, which accounts for the slight and appealing blush of the wine. Seventy-one per cent was barrel-fermented. The wine was aged sur lie for six months in Tokaj barrels (24% new). This is a complex wine with luscious fruit on the nose and palate: pear, apple and mango. 92.

Hillside Viognier 2022 Heritage Collection ($28). This fruit had 16 hours of skin contact in stainless steel. Fermentation was 76% in French oak (12% new). The wine was aged sur lies for five months. It begins with aromas of pineapple and quince; these are echoed on the palate along with stone fruit flavours. 92.

Hillside Gamay Noir 2020 Founder’s Block ($45 for 140 cases). The fruit for this wine is from a 1984 planting beside this Naramata Bench winery. Skin contact before and during fermentation lasted 23 days, accounting for the intensity of the wine, which was aged eight months in French oak (33% new). Spicy aromas of cherry and blackberry lead to flavours of raspberry, cherry and cedar. The finish lingers. 92.

Hillside Syrah Heritage Collection 2021 ($36). This is a classic Syrah, with aromas and flavours of plum and fig with a touch of black pepper. 92.

Hillside Mosaic 2017 Icon Collection ($70 for 417 cases). This is a blend of 33% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, 18% Malbec, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Petit Verdot. The wine was aged 18 months in French oak (42% new) before being bottled. This wine needs to be decanted, or opened to breath the day before consuming it in order to unlock the intense and brooding flavours of dark fruits. This full-bodied wine can be cellared another five to 10 years. 94.