Bordertown releases excellent wines from small 2023 vintage.

Photo: Bordertown's Mohan Gill

Judging from the excellent 2023 wines which Bordertown Estate Winery is just releasing, the 2023 Okanagan vintage is terrific. That is the good news. The bad news is that it is the smallest vintage in several decades, to be followed by an even smaller vintage in 2024, the result of two consecutive winters with hard frosts. However, Mohan Gill, Bordertown’s proprietor, believes that his winery’s deep inventory of red wines will sustain his business until grape production is back to normal.

The intense flavours and aromas of Bordertown’s 2023 whites is, ironically, a consequence of the short crop in that vintage. “On average, the crop was around 45% in 2023 compared to what we get in an average year,” he says. “The plants produced really small bunches. That’s what makes the difference. The crop was very light.” As well, the vines had a generous canopy which helped drive more flavour into the small bunches. “The ripening was more even and quicker than normal because the crop was not there,” Mohan explains. “But there were a lot of leaves and that gave energy and nutrients that contributed to the ripening and the better flavour.”

The winery produced close to 10,000 cases of wine last fall, down dramatically from 23,000 cases produced in 2022. It is too early to forecast what Bordertown’s vineyard will produce this year. The industry believes that the severe freeze in January this year killed most of the fruiting buds and likely some vines. Wine production is expected to be minimal. “We hope we can save the plants,” Mohan says. “Some have more damage than others. I probably need to replant a couple of vineyards. Last year, we pulled out one Malbec block and we put in Cabernet Franc, because it is winter hardy. And also, it is our flagship red wine.”

There are two reasons why he does not sound too distressed. Bordertown’s production is 80% red and 20% white. The winery still is selling reds from the 2018 and 2019 vintage and has a good inventory of successive vintages. “A lot of wineries have a backlog of red wine -- three to four years anyway,” Mohan believes. Secondly, the market for BC wines, including cellar door sales, softened last year. Highway closures and wild fires in the interior had a negative impact on wine touring. Mohan has always sold grapes to other wineries. Last fall, despite the short crop, some of his customers were reducing their orders, matching production to softer sales.

Because of the widespread vineyard damage, there has been a lot of discussion in the industry about importing grapes this fall from the United States or Ontario. Mohan would not support that. “That would ruin the whole B.C. market,” he argues. “If we bring in fruit from another country and try to manufacture wines here, the fruit quality is not there. People realize that BC is growing number one quality wine. So we would be ruining our own market. Consumers understand. They know the crop is less.”

Mohan also has not responded to the diminished production by raising wine prices. “People realize that I am a grower and there is no middle man,” he says. “That is one of the reasons that the prices are really decent.

Here are notes on his 2023 releases.

Bordertown Living Desert White 2023 ($18 for 470 cases). This is a complex blend: 52% Grüner Veltliner, 18% Pinot Gris, 15% Muscat, 10% Gewürztraminer and 5% Chardonnay. The wine begins with aromas of pear, peach and apple. The palate delivers flavours of citrus and stone fruits with a touch of spice on the crisp finish. 91.

Bordertown Pinot Gris 2023 ($20 for 3,500 cases). This is a delicious wine, full of aromas and flavours of peach, pear and citrus. 90.

Bordertown Gewurztraminer 2023 ($20 for 300 cases). The wine begins with aromas of spice and tropical fruits. On the palate, there are flavours of lychee, pineapple and peach. There is a well-balanced touch of sweetness on the finish. 91.

Bordertown Unoaked Chardonnay 2023 ($22 for 350 cases). This wine struts its fruitiness, with aromas and flavours of apple and peach. The lush texture leads to a persistent finish. 91.

Bordertown Grüner Veltliner 2023 ($22 for 350 cases). This wine begins with aromas of pineapple leading to flavours of quince, pear and peach. There is minerality and a hint of spice on the finish. 91.

Bordertown Viognier 2023 ($22 for 265 cases). This is a rich and luscious wine beginning with aromas of apple, apricot and pineapple; those are echoed on the flavour-packed palate. The finish lingers. 92.

Bordertown Rosé 2023 ($23 for 385 cases). Made with Cabernet Franc, this wine presents in the glass with a pink/bronze hue. It has aromas and flavours of strawberry and watermelon. 90.