Terralux Winery: newest premium Okanagan winery

Photo: Terralux winemaker Jacqueline Kemp

New Zealand-born winemaker Jacqueline Kemp joined Terralux Estate Winery in the Okanagan in July 2023, just in time to experience one of the most challenging vintages of her 20-year-long career. To begin with, the damage suffered by Terralux vineyards in the 2022-23 winter reduced vineyard yield dramatically. The winery had just enough fruit to make 5,000 litres of wine.

“All of that was made under very difficult, very smoky conditions,” Jacqueline says. “There was the fire in West Kelowna right behind us; and we had the fire in Cawston right behind our vineyard. We evacuated our winery in Cawston three times. We moved our crew from Cawston to West Kelowna right as the fire hit West Kelowna. It was stressful. It was a different kind of a year. We were sustainably managing our people, moving them sustainably from one place to another.” She continues: “Even though it was a really tough year for winemaking and for volume, it was for me one of the most important years I have had, learning how to do something completely new [removing smoke taint]. There are so many pieces of the puzzle. The research has not begun in some areas.”

However, she believes she was successful in removing the taste and aroma of smoke from the juice she had to work with, applying a New Zealand developed technology new to the Okanagan. “We brought in a machine right at the beginning to remove it,” she says. “It was a complete experiment. No one knew if it was going to work. It worked amazing. The juice is completely clear, texturally and aromatically, and shows how the fruit was in that year.”

Terralux is one of the newest producers in the Okanagan. The West Kelowna winery, still under construction, should be opening a tasting room in the spring of 2024. However, the winery has been producing wine since the 2018 at its S’milka Vista Vineyards at Cawston. This was formerly Hugging Tree Winery until it was acquired by the Minglian Holdings Ltd., a Chinese sponsored residential developer with condominiums in the Lower Mainland, Kelowna and Seattle. The 40-acres of established vineyard gave Minglian its entry into the B.C. wine industry.

Minglian has surrounded its project with talent, including two Masters of Wine. Most of the Terralux wines now in wine stores were made by Marcus Ansems MW, an Australian winemaker with extensive experience around the world. He also has his own winery, Daydreamer Wines, near Naramata.

Jacqueline also brings experience and a record of award-winning wines to Terralux. On her LinkedIn page, she writes: “Formally a research nutritional scientist, I put aside my lab coat in 1998 to follow a passion for wine making, and completed a Viticulture & Oenology degree at Lincoln University, New Zealand. In 2000, I began building my practical experience, working multiple vintages in Burgundy, Western Australia, New Zealand and Canada. In my first full time winemaking role at Akarua Winery in Central Otago, New Zealand, I achieved national, and international, recognition for Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris vintages which was very exciting and motivating!”

She came to the Okanagan in 2008 when Chris Carson, now her former husband, joined Meyer Family Vineyards. While raising her children, Jacqueline kept her hand in as a very active consulting winemaker. Her clients have included Tantalus Vineyards, River Stone Estate Winery and Privato Vineyard & Winery. She became the head winemaker at Moraine Estate Winery in 2012, where she was involved in the design and construction of a new winery. Just as that project finished, she moved to Therapy Vineyards in 2018 where she was involved in redeveloping the winery and launching sparkling wines. She joined Terralux in July, 2023, bringing a remarkable resume of skills and experience – and having to put them all to work in a difficult vintage.

Here are notes on current releases from Terralux.

Terralux Pinot Gris 2021 ($27 for 319 cases). The grapes for this wine were whole-cluster pressed and fermented cool in stainless steel with selected yeasts. The wine was also aged in stainless steel. As a result, the wine is crisp and refreshing with aromas and flavours of apple and citrus. 91.

Terralux Viognier 2020 ($33 for 256 cases). The grapes for this wine are from the winery’s Similkameen vineyard. The fruit was whole-cluster pressed and fermented at ambient temperatures with indigenous yeast. The wine was matured partially in French barriques and partially in stainless steel. The wine has aromas and flavours of peach and orange blossom, with the classically firm texture of the varietal. 90.

Terralux Viognier Reserve 2019 ($39 for 237 cases). This is a ripe and rich wine made with fruit from the Similkameen Vineyard. Fermented with indigenous yeast, the wine was matured in a combination of French barriques and stainless steel. The wine begins with aromas of stone fruits leading to flavours of apricot and spice. 92.

Terralux Chardonnay Reserve 2020 ($44 for 166 cases). This wine was made with fruit from the South Okanagan, whole-cluster pressed, fermented with indigenous yeasts and matured 11 months in French barriques. The wine has aromas of vanilla and lemon, leading to flavours of ripe apples mingled with buttery notes. The finish is long. 92.

Terralux Syrah 2018 ($39 for 295 cases). The fruit for this wine is from a vineyard on the Black Sage Bench. The wine was fermented with indigenous yeast and aged 11 months in French barriques. It is a big wine, with aromas of dark cherry and deli meats mingled with a hint of pepper. These are echoed on the palate, along with savoury flavours of dark fruits. 92.

Terralux Meritage 2019 ($39 for 497 cases). This is a blend of 60% Cabernet Franc, 24% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Malbec. The wine was fermented with indigenous yeast and matured 11 months in French barriques. A big wine with satisfying concentration on the palate, it has aromas and flavours of blackberry and plum with a touch of spice. 92.

Terralux Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($39 for 138 cases). Made with South Okanagan fruit, the wine was fermented with indigenous yeast and aged 11 months in French barriques. A well-structured wine, it begins with aromas of black currant mingled with spice and cedar. On the palate, there are flavours of black currant, plum, and dark cherry. The finish lingers. 93.

Terralux Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2019 ($65 for 341 cases). This wine blends fruit from the Similkameen Valley with grapes from the South Okanagan to produce an elegant and powerful wine. Aged in French barriques, the wine begins with aromas of cassis. On the palate, there are flavours of black currant, blackberry and spice with a very long finish. The full, rich tannins will support long-term aging of this wine. For early consumption, decant the wine. 94.