Clos do Soleil strays from Bordeaux roots to champion Syrah

Photo: Clos du Soleil's Michael Clark

Those who share my delight in wines made with Syrah will be elated with the news from Clos du Soleil’s winemaker, Michael Clark, on a recent release of three wines. “We have not had a Syrah available for the last several vintages, but starting with this 2020 vintage, Syrah will be a permanent part of the Clos du Soleil portfolio,” he writes. The grapes are from the Blind Creek Vineyard at Cawston which, in the past, has produced stunning Syrah wines for Road 13 Vineyards when both the vineyard and the winery were owned by Mick Luckhurst, one of three partners in the vineyard. “I have a great relationship with them,” Michael tells me. “They have been growing for Clos du Soleil Winery for a number of years now, and we have a long-term agreement for Syrah and some other varieties.”

The Similkameen Valley has excellent terroir for Syrah. The varietal is a star in the portfolios of Vanessa Vineyards, Corcelettes Estate Winery, Orofino Vineyards, among other Similkameen producers. As well, Mt. Boucherie Vineyards and Rust Wine Co. have Similkameen vineyards that supply them with Syrah. Clos du Soleil owns four or five vineyards in the valley, but until recently, none was planted to Syrah. Perhaps that is because the winery was launched in 2008 on a Bordeaux template. Its reputation has been made with red and white wines made from Bordeaux grape varietals.

“We've been planting our own Syrah because we really believe in the future of this variety here,” Michael says. “Just this past spring we planted a couple of acres of Syrah at our organic "La Côte" Vineyard.” He adds: “B.C. is really producing some world-class Syrah, and moreover I think the variety can express terroir here very well. The fruit from Blind Creek is excellent, and this Syrah demonstrates that. One of the things that I love about the Similkameen is that just a very few kilometers of distance between vineyard sites can make a significant difference in growing conditions, and thus in the resulting wines. Blind Creek is quite close to Clos du Soleil, but the grapes from our estate sites produce an expression that is quite distinct from the fruit coming from Blind Creek, and I always find that fascinating. Frequently they prove to be very complimentary.”

The appeal of Syrah, to those of us who seek out the varietal, are the bold flavours that jump from the glass. I once told a friend who is besotted with Pinot Noir that I preferred Syrah because it speaks so assertively. He agreed, but added that Pinot Noir is a varietal you have to listen to. A very apt comment!

Here are notes on the Clos du Soleil Syrah and two other current releases.

Clos du Soleil Capella 2021 ($30.90 for 537 cases). This is the winery’s flagship white – a blend of 73% Sauvignon Blanc, 27% Sémillon. The varietals were fermented separately in French oak, barrel-aged for 10 months with lees stirring. The best lots were selected for this blend. The wine begins with aromas of lime, grapefruit and fresh grass, all of which is echoed vividly on the palate. The finish is long and crisp. 95.

Clos du Soleil Syrah 2020 Winemaker’s Series ($39.90 for 484 cases). There is 3% Viognier in this blend. The fruit was fermented in concrete and the wine was aged 15 months in French oak (five percent new). It begins with aromas of plums and violets mingled with spice and a hint of pepper. On the palate, the fruit flavours are rich and layered with notes of plum, fig, and dark berries. The tannins are long and ripe. 93.

Clos du Soleil Célestiale 2020 ($29.90 for 1,291 cases). This is a blend of 56% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% each of Cabernet Franc and Malbec, and 2% of Petit Verdot. After a moderate cold soak, each l0t of fruit was fermented in concrete and then aged 15 months in French barrels before blending. The wine begins with aromas of black currant, blueberry and dark cherry. On the palate, there are flavours of black currant, cherry and raspberry. The wine is finished with soft, ripe tannins so as to be approachable while still young. 93.