Blaufränkisch and friends at Mt. Boucherie

Photo: Blaufränkisch grapes, courtesy Austrian Wine Marketing Board

In mid-December, the Austrian Wine Marketing Board hosted a large panel of wine writers to a day-long tasting of wines made from the Blaufränkisch grape. The panel (which included Jancis Robinson MW) concluded that “Blaufränkisch is unanimously recognised as one of the world’s great red wine grape varieties because it ticks all the right boxes in terms of what we expect of an outstanding red wine, such as ageing potential, the expression of its terroir, complexity, distinctiveness and finesse.”

That will be good news to Mt. Boucherie Estate Winery, believed to be the only British Columbia winery with Blaufränkisch in its portfolio. The varietal, which grows in Washington State under the name Lemberger, was planted in 1993 in the winery’s Lazy River Vineyard south of Cawston in the Similkameen. It is among the winery’s superb current releases. It is not one of the flagship wines but it certainly adds a note of interest to the range. The panel in Austria tasted more than 50 of the best Blaufränkisch wines from the 1986 to the 2020 vintages, produced by 17 different winegrowers. One outcome was a definition of the varietal: “Freshness and acidity combined with a precise fruitiness and tightly woven body. The aromas correspond to those of dark berries, together with a smoky spiciness and notes of dried herbs.”

While Mt. Boucherie’s wine likely was not among those available to the panel, the description certainly applies to the wine. Mt. Boucherie describes it as “a rare and unique medium-bodied wine that showcases notes of wild blueberries, sour cherries and baking spices.” Here are notes on that wine and the rest of the current releases from West Kelowna-based Mt. Boucherie:

Mt. Boucherie Reserve Chardonnay 2021 ($29.99). The fruit for this wine came from the winery’s Lazy River Vineyard near Cawston. The wine was aged for 13 months in French oak (50% new). The oak is well integrated in this full-bodied wine, which begins with aromas of citrus, apple and butter. On the palate, flavours of apple and peach are mingled with vanilla. The finish lingers. 91.

Mt. Boucherie Pinot Noir 2021 ($24.99). The fruit is from the Lazy River Vineyard. The wine was aged six months in French oak (15% new). The wine begins with aromas of cherry and pomegranate. On the medium-bodied palate, the wine delivers flavours pf strawberry and raspberry. The silky texture is appealing. 90.

Mt. Boucherie Blaufränkisch 2021 ($27.99). In Washington State, the varietal is called Lemberger. Mt. Boucherie has stayed with the original European name. This rare varietal (for BC) is from vine planted in 1993 in the Lazy River vineyard. Quite a fruity varietal, the wine begins with aromas of cherry and blueberry leading to juicy flavours of cherry and red plum. 90.

Mt. Boucherie Merlot 2020 ($24.99). This wine blends fruit from both the South Okanagan and the Similkameen. The wine was aged 14 months in French oak (15% new). It has aromas of cherry and cassis leading to flavours of cherry. Clove and a hint of leather and chocolate. 91.

Mt. Boucherie Reserve Merlot 2020 ($34.99). This wine, with fruit from vineyards in both the Okanagan and the Similkameen, was aged 14 months in French and American oak (25% new). The wine begins with aromas of cassis, cherry and spice. On the palate, it is full-bodied with flavours of cedar and dark fruits. Firm tannins suggest this wine should be aged another three to five years. Decant for consumption now. 92.

Mt. Boucherie Reserve Malbec 2019 ($44.99). The wine was made with fruit from the Lazy River Vineyard. It was aged 22 months in new French oak. There is a surprising hint of white pepper in the aroma, mingled with raspberry and cherry. Still firm on the palate, the wine has flavours of black currant, black cherry and spice. 91.

Mt. Boucherie Reserve Syrah 2020 ($49.99). The fruit for this wine is from both the Similkameen and South Okanagan valleys. The wine was aged 15 months in French and Hungarian oak (30% new). The wine begins with aromas of dark berries mingled with pepper. The meaty flavours on the palate include dark cherry, plum, leather and pepper. 92.

Mt. Boucherie Summit 2019 ($59.99). The fruit for this wine is from vineyards in the South Okanagan. The blend is 57% Merlot, 26% Cabernet Franc, 9% Carménère, 5% Malbec, 2% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Syrah. The wine was aged 24 months in French oak (35% new). There are aromas and flavours of cassis, dark cherry, plum and spice. Long ripe tannins carry the wine to a lingering finish. 93.

Mt. Boucherie Contessa 2018 ($88.88). There is both South Okanagan and Similkameen fruit in this wine, which was aged 22 months in French, American and Hungarian oak (30% new). The blend is 38% Merlot, 32% Syrah, 23% Cabernet Franc, 5% Zinfandel and 2% Malbec. The wine invites you in with a rich aroma of plum. blueberry and dark cherry. There are layers of rich fruit on the palate: plum, blueberry, dark cherry mingled with spice and chocolate. The texture is polished and the finish is very long. 95.