Quails' Gate: a foot in two wine regions

Photo: Quail's Gate president Tony Stewart

The most recent releases from Quails’ Gate Estate Winery including not just its signature varietals, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but two red wines from Sonoma County in California. It is a reminder that Tony Stewart and his siblings, owners of Quails’ Gate in the Okanagan, also own Valley of the Moon Winery and Lake Sonoma Winery in California.

The Stewarts have been in the wine business there since 2010 as West Coast Wine Partners. That partnership was formed originally with Dan Zepponi, a Californian wine industry executive who had spent two years in the Okanagan as president of Mission Hill Family Estate Winery. The strategy was not to get Canadian wines into the United States, as I had surmised at the time. It was to sell California wines in Canada as well in the American market.

Over the years, there probably has been a sharing of knowledge between the winemaking team in Kelowna and in Sonoma County. Both senior winemakers – Jeff Del Nin at Quails’ Gate and JJ Dowell in Sonoma – are seasoned professionals. A native of Thunder Bay with a master’s degree in chemistry, Jeff got his winemaking training at the University of Adelaide. Since returning to Canada in 2006, he has led the winemaking teams at Burrowing Owl Estate Winery, Church & State Wines, Road 13 Vineyards and, most recently, Quails’ Gate. JJ Dowell was born in San Diego and earned a degree in viticulture and enology in 2000 from the University of California at Davis. For a time, she juggled management of an art gallery with winemaking, accumulating an extensive resume of winemaking in California and New Zealand, especially after selling the gallery in 2010. She has joined the Sonoma wineries in 2019.

The current Lake Sonoma releases in this market are a 2019 Zinfandel and a 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon. Both are listed in the Liquor Distribution Branch: the Zin is in 61 stores and the Cabernet Sauvignon is in 123 stores. There is not much overlap in the portfolios of the Canadian and American wineries in this market. Quails’ Gate produces no Zinfandel or Cabernet Sauvignon. Here are notes on the wines.

Quails’ Gate Stewart Family Reserve Chardonnay 2020 ($49). This delicious wine was fermented in French oak (new and used) and aged for 10 months in barrel. It begins with aromas of butter and marmalade. On the palate, there are flavours of citrus mingled with vanilla. The oak is very well integrated and does not cover the fruit. 93.

Quails’ Gate Stewart Family Reserve Pinot Noir 2020 ($59). The fruit, from premium and mature blocks in the estate vineyard, was destemmed into stainless steel tanks. The juice was on the skins 18 days during ferment, usually with twice daily punchdowns. It was then aged 17 months in French oak. The firm tannins support the winery recommendation that this will drink well through 2036. Now, it shows concentrated primary fruit including dark cherry with a hint of pepper on the finish. Decant this for current drinking. 93.

Quails’ Gate Chardonnay 2021 ($24.99). The fruit was whole cluster pressed and fermented in a combination of stainless steel tanks and neutral oak barrels. A small portion went through malolactic fermentation. The wine was aged nine months on the lees. This wine is fresh and fruit forward, with aromas and flavours of peach, pear and citrus. 90.

Quails’ Gate Pinot Noir 2021 ($34.99). The fruit was cold-soaked on the skins for five days and then fermented on the skins. It was aged in French oak (new and used) for ten months. The wine begins with aromas of cherry and spice. On the palate, there are flavours of cherry, red plum, spice and vanilla. The texture is generous. 92.

Lake Sonoma Zinfandel 2019 Sonoma Valley ($27.99). There is seven percent Barbera in this blend. The wine was aged 29 months in 50% new French oak, 25% new American oak and 25% neutral oak. Aromas of blackberry and spice lead to flavours of cloves mingled with cherry. The texture is juicy. 90.

Lake Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 Sonoma Valley ($29.99). This wine, with grapes from three different vineyards, was aged 19 months in French oak (40% new). This wine begins with aromas of cassis and dark cherry. Rich and generous on the palate, it delivers flavours of spice, dark cherry and black currant. 91.