Clos du Soleil whites reflect winemaking versatility

Photo: Michael Clark in La Cote Vineyard

Michael Clark, the general manager and winemaker at Clos du Soleil, is familiar with the traditions of Bordeaux winemaking. He also runs a winery in the Similkameen Valley whose vineyards are largely dedicated to Bordeaux varietals. Recently, Clos du Soleil released two white wines. One is an exceptional blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, two of the same varietals used to produce white wines in Graves, in Bordeaux. If you dropped Clos du Soleil’s Capella – as the blend is called – in any lineup of white Graves wines, it would more than hold its own with the top white Bordeaux wines. And it would be more affordable than most.

Michael is not just a sure hand with Bordeaux grapes. The second white in the recent release is a Chardonnay, the stalwart varietal in Burgundy. This is also well-crafted, showing the versatility of the winemaker. But then Michael, a former investment banker, did his initial training in winemaking in Switzerland. If the grapes were available now, Clos du Soleil would also have a killer Chasselas! In the note that came with the samples, Michael writes: “The 2020 vintage was an excellent one at Clos du Soleil, and we think you will see the beautiful growing conditions reflected in these wines. … I think you will find that our viticultural care, and winemaking detail, are clearly visible in both.” Here are notes on the two wines.

Clos du Soleil Capella 2020 ($29.90 for 410 cases). This is 77% Sauvignon Blanc and 23% Sémillon. The wine is fermented in barrel, primarily with wild yeast, and aged nine months in barrel, with lees stirring. The wine begins with lifted aromas of lime grapefruit and grass. There are rich flavours on the palate: lime, lemon and stone fruit. The rich texture leads to a lingering finish. The bright but still modulated acidity leaves the wine refreshing. 93.

Clos du Soleil Chardonnay 2020 Winemaker’s Series La Côte Vineyard ($24.90 for 352 cases). Here is a fruit-forward Chardonnay that is very good value. Crisp and fresh, it begins with aromas of apple and quince. On the palate, there are flavours of apple and nectarine. Half the wine was fermented in oak, half in stainless steel. Only 30% went through malolactic fermentation, which explains the appealing freshness. 91.