Golden Mile Slopes moves toward sub-appellation

Photo: Adrian Cassini When the Golden Mile Bench sub-appellation was created several years ago, it excluded the vineyards and wineries immediately adjacent to Highway 97. The apparent reason is that these are at a lower altitude than the Golden Mile vineyards, and have differing exposures to the sun. Thanks to an initiative taken by Adrian Cassini – whose Cassini Cellars winery is right beside the highway – a new sub-appellation called Golden Mile Slopes is working its way through the regulatory process. Once it is approved, a number of producers who thought they should have been in the original sub-app now will have one of their own with which to label their wines. The wineries likely to have access to the new sub-app, in addition to Cassini, include Intersection, C.C. Jentsch, Rust, Castoro de Oro, Maverick, Winemaker’s Cut and Gold Hill. “There is the same soil at the bottom of the valley as at the top,” Adrian Cassini contends. Having said that, the wines as Cassini and at Gold Hill Winery also have a house style that sets them apart. It may be the terroir but it is also the penchant of these producer to make bold wines. The red wines at Cassini positively swagger with power. These are generous wines. The current releases – some sold out since I got around to tasting the samples – are accompanied by a fortified Muscat, an unusual wine that also shows some swagger in the glass. Adrian, who opened this winery in 2009, was born in Romania but he adopted his maternal grandfather’s name for the winery as well as his surname. Cassini rolls off the tongue more easily that his birth name, Capaneata. At Gold Hill Winery, every wine is bursting with flavour. The red wines frequently have 15% alcohol (sometimes 16%) but seldom are “hot” because the fleshiness and the flavour more than carry the alcohol. Gold Hill was opened in 2011 by Sant and Gurbachan Gill, immigrants from India in 1984 and 1989 respectively. They now farm about 75 acres. Consulting winemaker Philip Soo made the wines until last year when veteran viticulturist and winemaker Valeria Tait moved to Gold Hill from Bench 1775 Winery. She has had a long relationship with the Gill brothers, including having designed one of Gold Hill’s major vineyards. The Gill brothers have argued that the property including their vineyard had been referred to as Golden Mile long before a sub-appellation was declared. It seems that the orchards which preceded the current vineyards were so exceptional that the owners began referring to the area as the Golden Mile. Whatever appears on future labels, the wineries here now produce interesting wines. Here are notes on wines from two producers.

Cassini Muscat N.V. ($25 for 225 cases of 500 ml or 375 ml). This fortified Muscat begins with aromas of baked apples and Crème Brulé which are echoed in the flavours. The wine is balanced with just a slightly sweet note along with the warmth that comes from 17% alcohol. 90.

Cassini Quattro 2017 Collector’s Series ($34 for 500 cases). This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Dark in colour, the wine has aromas of cherry and cassis mingled with oak and vanilla. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, with flavours of dark fruits mingled with leather and dark chocolate. This wine is best decanted. 91.

Cassini Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 Collector’s Series ($36). This is one of the boldest Cabernets one is likely to find in the Okanagan – fully ripe in aroma and flavour. There are notes of cassis, plum, blackberry, black cherry and dark chocolate on both the nose and the palate. The finish is quite persistent. 93.

Cassini Maximus 2016 Limited Edition ($44). Here is another big wine (15.4% alcohol) that benefits from decanting. The blend is 46% Cabernet Franc, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 5% Malbec and 5% Petit Verdot. It has aromas and flavours of black currants, black cherry, dark chocolate, leather and vanilla. 93.

Cassini Maximus 2017 Limited Edition ($44 for 550 cases). This is 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot and 8% Malbec. It is a big wine (alcohol 15.5%). The aromas of black currant, cocoa and vanilla are echoed on the palate, where there are bold flavours of dark ripe fruits with a long finish. 93.

Cassini Cabernet Franc 2016 Limited Edition ($40 and sold out). The wine begins with classic brambly aromas along with notes of plum. The flavours are intense, with notes of plum, black currant, dark chocolate and vanilla. 91.

Cassini The Aristocrat Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 Limited Edition ($40 for 300 cases). This wine is now sold out. Those who have it in their cellars have a fine bottle, and one that should be aged for five to 10 years more. The wine begins with an appealing aroma of cassis mingled with black cherry, blackberry and mocha. The flavours echo the aromas. 92.

Gold Hill Cabernet Franc 2016 ($34.99). The wine begins with an appealing aroma that mingles black cherry, raspberry, blackberry and black currant. On the palate, there are intense brambly flavours echoing the nose, with spice and vanilla on the finish. Decant this wine to let it express itself best. 91.

Gold Hill Syrah 2016 ($34.99). This is a big (14.9% alcohol) wine, typical of the Gold Hill style. Even the aroma is rich and concentrated, with notes of plum and raspberry that carry through to the palate, along with flavours of plum, black cherry, and leather. There is a slight hint of pepper and spice on the palate. 91.

Gold Hill Grand Vin 2016 ($64.99). This is the winery’s flagship Bordeaux blend. The alcohol, at 14.4%, is lower than customary for Gold Hill, giving the wine more of a Bordelaise elegance. There are herbal notes in the aroma leading to bright flavours of black cherry, blackberry and spice. This wine should also be decanted if you want to consume it in its youth. 92.