Tightrope scores with Naramata Bench Syrah

 

 

                                            Photo: Graham and Lyndsay O'Rourke

At the Judgment of B.C. tasting a year ago, Tightrope Winery’s 2016 Syrah was chosen at the top red wine.

 

Tightrope is a winery that relies on Naramata Bench grapes. The big award-winning Syrahs usually have come from Oliver and Osoyoos vineyards. But judging from that tasting and from the recently released 2018 Syrah from Tightrope, great Syrah can also come from other terroirs.

 

It is worth recalling that the Okanagan’s first Syrah was actually planted at the north end of the Naramata Bench by Nichol Vineyard about 1990. Given a good site and good viticulture, the varietal can succeed here as well as in hotter locations.

 

For more background on Tightrope, here is an excerpt from Okanagan Wine Tour Guide which I released in April, along with co-author Luke Whittall.

 

The seed for Tightrope Winery was planted in the decade that Lyndsay and Graham O’Rourke spent working in bars and restaurants at the Whistler ski resort. The jobs supported their skiing, Graham’s fly-fishing, and their shared meals in fine restaurants.

 

“The thing about Whistler is that you get spoiled because there are so many fine dining restaurants for such a small town,” Lyndsay says. “You get a lot of chances to go out and try nice wines with good food.” Graham agrees. “My wine experience all started with really good wine,” he says. “I did not grow up drinking Baby Duck and the box wines.”

 

Both were born in 1971. Lyndsay, whose geologist father, Grenville Thomas, is a diamond explorer who is in the Canadian Mining Hall of Fame, has a University of Windsor business degree. Graham, the son of an accountant, grew up near Sarnia and learned to fish during summers in a family cottage on the river. His love of the outdoors led to a University of British Columbia degree in wildlife management.

 

They moved to the Okanagan in 2003. Immediately drawn to the vineyard lifestyle, they both took Okanagan College courses in grape growing and winemaking. To further improve their skills, they went to Lincoln University in New Zealand for honours degrees in those disciplines. The studies paid off quickly. When they returned, Graham joined Mission Hill for six years as a vineyard manager before, with a partner, setting up his own vineyard-consulting firm. Lyndsay became the winemaker for Ruby Blues Winery for several years before devoting herself totally to Tightrope.

 

In 2007, the couple bought a 10-acre Naramata Bench property with a million-dollar view over the lake. They planted seven acres) of grapes—Pinot Gris, Riesling, Viognier, Pinot Noir, and Merlot, with small blocks of Cabernet Franc and Barbera. They made the first 900 cases of Tightrope wines in 2012, using the Ruby Blues winery until they built their own in 2014.

 

On the winery’s Facebook page, they set out the rationale for the winery’s name: “The journey of bringing grapes to the bottle is a tightrope walk of variables from vineyard management, to winemaking, to the weather and even balancing the cheque book. Please enjoy the final culmination of our balancing act!”

 

Here are notes on current releases from Tightrope.

 

Tightrope Riesling 2018 ($21 for 432 cases). This is an excellent estate-grown dry Riesling. It begins with aromas of citrus and apple, leading to flavours of lemon and green apple, with a whiff of petrol. The acidity is bright but is well-balanced with a modest amount of residual sugar. 91.

 

Tightrope Chardonnay 2018 ($28 for 214 cases). 

This wine was fermented in barrel (both French oak and stainless steel barrels) and aged on the lees for seven months. Only a third of the wine was allowed to go through malolactic fermentation. The result is a vibrant, fruit-forward Chardonnay with aromas of citrus and apple, followed by flavours of apple, stone fruit, vanilla and butter. The mid-palate texture is creamy (thanks to the time on the lees) while the finish is crisp. 91.

 

Tightrope Pinot Noir 2018 Fleet Road Vineyards ($31 for 662 cases). This wine was fermented with wild yeast in stainless steel, with a total of about 21 days of skin contact. It was then aged 10 months in French oak (30% new). The wine begins with aromas of cherry and strawberry which are echoed on the palate. There are earthy “forest floor” notes on the finish. The tannins are still firm. 89.

 

Tightrope Pinot Noir 2018 Rubis Family Vineyard ($32 for 302 cases). 

The fruit is  from a young Naramata Bench vineyard. The wine was fermented with wild yeast in stainless steel and aged 10 months in French oak (30% new). This is a vibrant and charming Pinot Noir with aromas and flavours of cherry and strawberry mingled with spice and vanilla on the finish. The tannins are supple. 92.

 

Tightrope Cabernet Franc 2018 ($28 for 309 cases).  As I often do, I left half a bottle of wine overnight for retasting, as a measure of the age-ability of the wine. This Cabernet Franc passed with flying colours. Put away a few bottles for several more years and let the wine achieve its full potential. It begins with brambly aromas (black currant mingled with cherry). On the palate, there are flavours of black currant and blackberry mingled with leather and chocolate. 90.

 

Tightrope Syrah 2018 ($34 for 342 cases). The fruit for this wine was grown on the Naramata Bench. It was fermented in small lots in stainless steel and was then aged in oak
barrels (mostly French) for 12 months. The wine begins with aromas of black pepper mingled with violets and blueberry. On the palate there are flavours of plum and fig with notes of pepper and leather. 92.