Alderlea shows off Vancouver Island terroir

Photo: Alderlea's Zachary Brown (courtesy of winery)

The excellent wines of Alderlea Vineyards near Duncan are seldom available in wine stores elsewhere in British Columbia. The winery makes just 2,000 cases a year and has an established clientele on Vancouver Island, mostly restaurateurs.

These wines are worth seeking out. Made with fruit from one of the most mature island vineyards, these are a fine expression of the Vancouver Island terroir.

Alderlea’s 7 ½- acre vineyard was established, beginning in 1992, on a sunny, south-facing slope, with growing conditions influenced by a nearby lake and by the rain shadow created by Mount Prevost, several kilometers to the west.

The original owner was Roger Dosman (left), who, in a lifestyle choice, switched careers from operating an autobody repair business to viticulture and winemaking. “I used to make money fixing cars,” he told me once. “Now I make a living. There is a big difference.”

His vineyard was always managed meticulously. The vines were so neat that they looked like cadets from a military school. The fruit quality was good and, as a result, the wines were solid.

Roger sold Alderlea in the spring of 2017 to Zachary Brown and Julie Powell (right), who were also making a lifestyle choice after 20 years in health and safety and human resources careers, respectively. They had long nurtured a dream to have their own winery. As their careers took them around the world, Zac (as he terms himself) never missed opportunities to spend time with winemakers (in Austria, Australia and Quebec), learning how to make wine.

After looking at wineries in Canada and abroad, they settled on Vancouver Island, Zac having grown up in Port Hardy. He may also have recognized that, because of climate change, Vancouver Island is not as marginal for viticulture as it was in the 1990s. The current wines reflect this: ripe flavours and appropriate levels of alcohol.

While Roger Dosman taught them how to prune the vines when they first took over the business, they were alone in the deep end during their first vintage.  “In our first vintage, he was here for 20 minutes to pick up the mail during harvest,” Zac laughs.

The wine quality has remained consistently high. Here are notes on the current releases. The three Plaid wines, made under a second label, are what Zac calls “our wine of the people.”

Alderlea Bacchus 2019 ($21.38). The winery’s estate-grown Bacchus is one of Vancouver Island’s most mature plantings of this aromatic varietal. The lemon and lime aromas jump from the glass and are echoed in zesty flavours. On the finish, the wine is crisp and dry. The clarity and focus of this wine is exceptional. 91.

Alderlea Valerie 2019 ($23.10). The wine is named in memory of winemaker Julie Powell’s mother. It is a blend of 80% Ortega and 20% Viognier. This is an inspired blend, with the Viognier bringing complexity. The wine begins with aromas of apples and stone fruit. On the palate, there are flavours of pear and apricot, with a hint of spice. The finish is dry. 91.

Alderlea Pinot Gris 2019 ($23.10). Judicious skin contact has given this wine an appealing light rose hue. The wine begins with aromas of peach and nectarine. On the palate, there are flavours hinting of pink grapefruit. The texture is full and the flavours persist on the dry finish. 91.

Alderlea Sauvignon Blanc 2019 ($24.25). The wine begins with aromas of green apple, lime and herbs. On the palate, there are flavours of lime and gooseberry, with lively herbal finish recalling Sancerre. The flavours are intense and the finish goes on and on. 92.

Plaid White N.V. ($18.50). This is designed for easy drinking, with aromas of peach and flavours of apple and citrus. 88.

Alderlea Rosé 2018 ($24.25). This is a boldly dark rosé made with Cabernet Foch and Cabernet Libré grapes. It begins with dramatically fruity aromas. On the palate, there are bright flavours of cherry and cranberry. 88.

Plaid Pink N.V. ($18.50). Beginning with a vibrant pink hue, the wine has aromas of cherry and plum that are echoed on the palate. This is fruity and playful pink wine, with a dry and refreshing finish. 88.

Plaid Red N.V. ($18.50). The wine is dark. It begins with earthy and smoky aromas typical of the Blattner hybrids in the blend. On the palate, there are flavours of blackberry and black cherry mingled with tobacco and chocolate. 89.

Alderlea Merlot 2017 ($25.98). This is from one of the very few – perhaps the only – Merlot block on Vancouver Island. Dark in colour, it has aromas of black currants mingled with French oak. The tannins are firm, but not hard, and the wine will age well. The flavours echo the aromas. 90.

Alderlea Clarinet 2017 ($24.25). This dark and expressive wine is made with Maréchal Foch grapes. Alderlea’s previous owner gave it a proprietary name because, as he said, “it is too good to be called Foch.” It is a very good red, indeed, beginning with aromas of spice, plum, fig and dark red fruits. The flavours are intense, showing spice and red berries. The soft tannins gave the wine a generous texture. 91.

Alderlea Matrix 2015 ($24.25). This is a blend incorporating Cabernet Foch. It begins with aromas of blackberry and black olive mingled with cassis. The fruit flavours are rich, with notes of black currant, black cherry, black licorice and coffee. The structure is firm and the wine should continue to improve in bottle over the next five years. 91.

This wine was released originally under the label, Fusion. A savvy businessman, Roger Dosman had registered the trademark. A few years later, the big Argentinian wine producer, Familia Zuccardi, entered the Canadian market with a similarly-named wine. Sensibly, Roger chose not to fight them legally. Rather, he sold them the brand and rechristened his wine as Matrix.

Alderlea Hearth 2008 ($29.43) for 375 ml).  This is a fortified barrel-aged port-style wine. It begins with classic vanilla and dark fruit aromas of a late-bottled vintage port. Just smelling the wine transported me to memories of port and sherry aging cellars. The flavours are rich, with notes of vanilla, chocolate and strawberries. The flavours persist on the palate. 91.