Readers of this blog will have noticed that I frequently
complain of rosés being “fashionably pale.”
The rosé released this summer by Township 7 winemaker Mary
McDermott is fashionably pale. But I will not complain about this one. It makes
up for a lack of colour – although the wine is delicately pretty – with a
satisfying mouthful of flavour. It is one of the best Okanagan rosés I have had
this year.
So why am I a sourpuss on the colour of rosé? I drink rosé
with my eyes as well as with my palate. I want the wines to look pretty in the
glass.
However, if the wine has plenty of flavour, I can live with
paleness. Just don’t expect me to enthuse about wines when the insipid hue is
matched with an insipid flavour. A little more skin contact would have given
the wine more stuffing even if the hue is darker than a Provence rosé.
There is an argument for making sure rosé has defined
flavours. We have now begun to drink rosé wines year-round and with a wider
variety of food. All-season rosé needs the flavours and textures to compliment
food.
Don’t get me wrong. I don’t want a rosé to be almost as dark
as a red table wine (and I have seen a few like that this year). That is
over-doing it.
Mary’s rosé from Township 7, even if fashionably pale, has hit
the sweet spot. I could drink it year-round.
Here are notes on all of Township 7’s current releases.
Township 7 Muscat 2018 ($26.97
for 140 cases). This wine, made with Orange Muscat and Muscat Blanc grapes,
just revels in its aromatics. It begins with intense aromas of orange blossoms
and spice. On the palate, there are flavours of orange and lemon, with a
lingering note of grapefruit rind on the dry finish. 91.
Township 7 Gewürztraminer 2018 ($26.97
for 348 cases). Complex winemaking was employed for this wine, beginning with
six hours of skin contact to extract aromas and flavours. After the grapes were
crushed, a portion of the juice went into six neutral French oak barrels and
fermented with wild yeast. The rest of the juice was fermented cool in
stainless steel. The result is a wine with a luscious texture and good
aromatics. It begins with aromas of ginger and lychee. On the palate, there are
flavours of peach, apple and pear. Dry on the finish, the wine delivers
lingering notes of tropical fruits. 91.
Township 7 Sauvignon Blanc 2019 ($19.97
for 988 cases). The wine, which is 88% Sauvignon Blanc and 12% Sémillon
fermented in stainless steel, begins with aromas of lime mingled with herbs.
The palate echoes the aromas. There also are flavours of passionfruit. The
finish is crisp and zesty. 90.
Township 7 Pinot Gris 2019 ($19.97
for 428 cases). This wine was fermented very cool in stainless steel,
preserving the purity of the variety. It has aromas and flavours of nectarine
and pear. 90.
Township 7 Rosé 2019 ($24.97
for 600 cases). Fashionably pale in the Provence style, this is a blend of 45%
Cabernet Franc, 25% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Malbec, 5% Petit Verdot
and 3% Syrah. Most of the fruit was co-fermented in stainless steel. The wine
begins with aromas of watermelon and strawberry. There is a surprising amount
of flavour on the palate, given the delicacy of the hue. There are notes of
strawberry, rhubarb and watermelon. On the finish, the wine is dry and
refreshing. 93.
Township 7 Pinot Noir 2018 ($35.97
for 668 cases). The fruit for this wine – clones 115 and 667 - is from the
Remuda Vineyard in Okanagan Falls. The winery fermented the fruit slowly (11
days), with pump-overs twice daily. The wine was then aged 12 months in French
oak barrels. The wine shows some power, with aromas than mingle dark cherry
with toasted oak notes. It is fleshy on the palate, with flavours of cherry and
spice punctuated with forest floor notes on the finish. 91.
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