Photo: Winemaker Grant Stanley
Grant Stanley, the winemaker and general manager at SpearHead
Winery in East Kelowna, once told me that he thinks about Pinot Noir “80% of
the time.”
It certainly looks like he has put that into action since
joining SpearHead in 2018. So far this spring, SpearHead has released nine
wines made with Pinot Noir. That included a White Pinot Noir, a Pinot Noir rosé
and seven red Pinot Noirs.
A note from the winery says:
“All Pinot grapes designated to red wine production are
treated equally; hand harvested, separated into small batches either by clone
or by vineyard; about 10% whole bunch cluster; cold soaked for six days; then
fermented slowly by indigenous yeast.
“Approximately 21 days later, the skins are pressed and the
wine is moved into French oak barrels (25% new) where it will integrate over
the winter months. Come spring, the Pinot barrels will go through malolactic
fermentation. Total time in barrel is 13 months. When the wine is bottled, it
is done without the use of a filter in order to maintain maximum flavour and
colour intensity.”
The current release consists of three single vineyard Pinot
Noirs. In my view, these are among the best Pinots so far from SpearHead since
the winery opened in 2010.
Here are my notes.
SpearHead Coyote Vineyard Pinot Noir 2018 ($35 for
250 cases). The fruit is from a West Kelowna vineyard planted in 2009 with
clone 115. This is the most robust of the trio, in part reflecting the clone
and in part due to 16 to 21 days on the skins. There are aromas and flavours of
cherry and plum mingled with toasty oak and savoury spice. 92.
SpearHead Saddle Block Vineyard Pinot Noir 2018 ($35 for
450 cases). This complex wine is made with estate-grown fruit. There are four
clones here: 115, 777, 828 and 667. Each clone was hand-harvested separately,
spent 16 to 21 days on skins and fermented with indigenous yeast. It was aged in
French oak barrels (25% new) for 13 months. The wine begins with aromas of
cherry and strawberry mingled with spice and notes of forest floor. The wine is
generous on the palate with appealing dark fruit flavours and a lingering
finish. The texture is silky. 94.
SpearHead Golden Retreat Vineyard Pinot Noir 2018 ($35 for
440 cases). The grapes – clones 667, Pommard, 115 and 777 – are from a vineyard
in Summerland. The berries spent 16 to 21 days on the skins, fermented with
wild yeast. The wine was aged in French oak (25% new) for 13 months. This is
the prettiest wine of the trio, silken in texture, with aromas and flavours of
cherry, plum, raspberry and spice. 92.
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