Photo: CedarCreek winemaker Taylor Whelan
CedarCreek Estate Winery was already one of the Okanagan’s
premier wineries in 2013 when it was acquired by Anthony von Mandl, the
proprietor of Mission Hill Family Estates.
The investments he has made since are taking CedarCreek to an
even higher level. Taylor Whelan, the winemaker, has just released some of the
best wines that have ever come from CedarCreek. And there is more to come.
CedarCreek’s original vineyard is 50 acres. Vines there were
planted as long ago as 1991 and as recently as 2013.
Last year, the winery bought another 100 acres adjacent to the
Home Block, as the original vineyard is now called. In a recent newsletter,
Taylor said:
“The new site shows significant promise with interesting and
undisturbed soils. … The new site begins on very light sandy loam at around 490
meters (nearly 200 meters above the lake), and as it reaches it maximum height
at 550 meters, we find an amazing amount of granite in the soils, both flakes
and chips, which have been weathered from the hills above, and rounded cobble
deposited by glacial runoff streams. These stones bring an exciting element to
what will be one of the highest vineyards in the Okanagan.”
The site is being planted over three years. This year, 25 acres
of Sauvignon Blanc is being planted. “Planting across a variety of slopes,
gravels and sand, we expect bright intensity and green characters and
significant variability which is hard to find in Okanagan Sauvignon Blanc,”
Taylor writes.
As well, a small block of Chardonnay is being planted this
year.
In 2021, significant blocks of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are
to be planted. In 2022, a block of Riesling will be planted on a warmer
south-facing slope, along with a little more Pinot and perhaps some Gamay Noir
and Grüner Veltliner.
“In addition, we will continue to build the complexity and
biodiversity of the property,” Taylor continues. “Plans are in the works for
vegetable gardens to supply Home Block restaurant. We will relocate and expand
our chicken flock. Finally, we are bringing grazing animals onto the property.
Scottish Highland cattle are a hearty and stout breed of cow which we will use
to graze the vineyards in the spring and fall as well as provide us with
valuable manure for continuing our exploration of viticultural practices beyond
organics.”
Here are notes on the current releases.
CedarCreek Home Block Sparkling Brut NV ($24.99).
This is CedarCreek’s first sparkling wine – and what a wine! It is made with
Muscat Ottonel, an aromatic variety. Winemaker Taylor came up with an
extraordinary single fermentation technique to capture the delicate aromatics
in the finished wine. Fermentation started in the conventional manner for a
table wine. But when 35 grams of natural sugar remained, the wine was
transferred to a Charmat tank. Here, carbon dioxide was captured to give the
wine bubbles. Fermentation was stopped with 8.5 grams of residual sugar,
delicately balanced with perfect acidity. This is the cleanest, freshest
ancestral method sparkling wine I have ever tasted. It is bursting with
tropical fruit. With just 10% alcohol, it is light and ever so refreshing. 93.
CedarCreek Sauvignon Blanc 2019 ($18.99). Move over, New Zealand, for an Okanagan
Sauvignon Blanc that mirrors the best of Marlborough. The zesty aromas and
flavours of lemon, lime and grapefruit are lively and refreshing on the palate.
It is bone dry. 92.
CedarCreek Pinot Gris 2019 ($18.99).
This wine was fermented 93% in stainless steel and 7% in neutral oak. That
touch of barrel ferment, along with three months on the lees, give the wine a
rich texture. It has aromas and flavours pears, apples and peaches. 92.
CedarCreek Pinot Noir 2018 ($26.99).
This wine was fermented with wild yeast in small stainless barrels and in
concrete. It was aged 14 months on the lees in French oak barriques. It begins
with toasty aromas mingled with cherry leading to savoury herbal flavours of
cherry and blackberry. The wine has good weight and texture. 91.
CedarCreek Platinum Block 2 Pinot Noir ($54.99).
This wine was fermented in concrete and aged 12 months in French oak. It begins
with aromas of cherry and plum mingled with toasted oak. The flavours echo the aromas,
with a long finish of red fruit flavours. The texture is elegantly silky. 93.
CedarCreek Platinum Block 4 Pinot Noir ($54.99
for 743 six-packs). This wine was fermented in concrete and aged 12 months in
French oak. It begins with an appealing aroma of dark cherry mingled with
toasted oak. On the palate, there are flavours of cherry, plum and spice with bright
red fruit on the persistent finish.
Another outstanding Pinot Noir. 93.
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