Hester Creek's Rob Summers leaves on a high note

Photo: Winemaker Robert Summers

A slight sadness came to mind while tasting these 2019 wines from Hester Creek Estate Winery: they are from the last vintage touched by Robert Summers, the long-time senior winemaker here.

The winery announced his retirement in February. “Originally from Niagara, Summers has had a long winemaking career, which first began in Ontario in 1987,” the winery said. He was, in fact, one of the senior winemakers at Peller Winery before moving West.

“He joined Hester Creek in May 2006 and was instrumental in overseeing the design and construction of Hester Creek’s sustainably built, state-of-the-art winery in 2008,” the Hester Creek announcement continued. “He has led the Hester Creek winemaking team for the past 14 years, substantially expanding the portfolio of wines in that time.”

Mark Sheridan, Hester Creek’s president, added: “Rob has been a huge part of Hester Creek’s incredible success, in growing the company from a small 6,000-case winery to the 60,000-case production today.”

Rob has been succeeded by his right-hand man, Mark Hopley, who joined Hester Creek in 2013, and by assistant winemaker Rebecca Ruggeri, who brings winemaking experience in the Southern Hemisphere and in California.

The 2019 vintage has been termed “challenging” by other vintners. Hester Creek’s description: “The 2019 grape growing season in the Oliver and Osoyoos region was one of remarkable variability, with fluctuating conditions in the winter and fall, but seeing a beautifully balanced summer.”

The fluctuating conditions no doubt refer to the vine-damaging frost of the 2018-2019 winter and then the early cold snap that killed the foliage and ended the vintage on October 9, 2019.. Even so, there was enough sun in the growing season that Hester Creek recorded 1,598 growing degree days, above the 20-year average of 1,474 days. September in particular was warmer than average but also had more rain than average.

With good vineyard practices, Hester Creek brought in quality fruit and it shows well in these wines. The wines are fresh, clean and bright with lively acidity. They are a fine tribute to Rob Summers’s distinguished career.

Here are my notes on the wines.

Hester Creek Pinot Gris 2019 ($16.99). I cannot put it any better than the winery: “a vivid bouquet of honey, apricot and honeydew melon.” The enveloping aromas bound from the glass; there are flavours pear, stone fruit and papaya. The finish is crisp and refreshing. 91.

Hester Creek Pinot Blanc 2019 ($15.99). Here is a very good value dry white. It has aromas of apples and flavours of apples and green melons. The finish is crisp and lingering on the palate. 90.

Hester Creek Pinot Gris Viognier 2019 ($16.99). Unique to Save-On-Foods. This is a blend of 71% Pinot Gris, 29% Viognier. The component wines were fermented separately in stainless steel; and the fermentations were long and at cool temperatures. The wine, after blending, had about two months more in tank before bottling. It begins with aromas of apricot, peach and pear. The Viognier fleshes out the palate weight and adds flavours of stone fruit to the Pinot Gris’s pear and apple notes. This utterly delicious wine is a bit of a show-off with flavours that refuse to quit. 91.

Hester Creek Old Vines Block 16 Trebbiano 2019 ($20.99). This wine begins with aromas of pineapple and citrus that are mirrored richly on the palate. There is a long finish with tropical fruit flavours persisting. 92.

Hester Creek Rosé Cabernet Franc 2019 ($17.99). This wine begins with a deep and vibrant hue, the result of giving the grapes a three-day cold soak. There are aromas of plum and crabapple, leading to mouth-filling flavours of apple, strawberry and red plum. Full-bodied for a rosé, this wine demands food. 91.