Meyer and Mayhem releases from Okanagan and Washington

Photo: Janice Stevens and JAK Meyer: Photo by Noelle Starzynski

The latest releases from Meyer Family Vineyards and Mayhem Wines include vintages from the Okanagan as well 2024 wines made with grapes grown in Washington State. The two wineries are linked by family ownership as well as by some shared facilities near Okanagan Falls. Meyer is owned by JAK Meyer and Janice Stevens. Mayhem is owned by JAK’s sister, Terry Meyer Stone and her partner, Andrew Stone. The Stones also have the Anarchist Mountain Vineyard near Osoyoos.

Notes from each winery explain why these producers (along with many other Okanagan producers) had to turn to Washington vineyards for the 2024 vintage. Mayhem writes: “The 2024 vintage experienced severe cold temperatures in January resulting in roughly 98% crop loss at Anarchist Mountain Vineyard and at many of our growers’ vineyards…. We were able to build new relationships with our American neighbours in Washington State and secure juice for our white and rosé wines. This is a great opportunity that has allowed us to experience a unique terroir in a new wine region.”

Meyer writes: “The 2024 vintage was shaped by exceptionally harsh temperatures in January leading to significant crop loss in our vineyards. As a result … we did not have a harvest. To continue crafting quality wines, we sourced a small amount of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from three vineyards just over the border in the Columbia Valley American Viticultural Area in Washington State.” Happily, the quality of the 2024 vintage in Washington was strong. Meyer writes: “Bud break began in late March with a cool spring and temperatures reaching above average by July. This led to large clusters with small berries, resulting in great quality fruit for winemaking.”

Mayhem’s commentary suggests the Okanagan is bouncing back this year because the vines, while not producing grapes last year, recovered to show healthy growth. “This leaves us very optimistic and excited for the 2025 growing season and beyond. … We are looking forward to producing local Okanagan wines and continuing our partnership with our BC growers.” Here are notes on the wines.

Meyer Old Main Road Chardonnay 2023 ($N/A for 160 cases). The Chardonnay vines were planted in 1996 on the Old Main Road vineyard on the Naramata Bench. The wine started fermentation in stainless steel before being transferred to French oak barrels (25% new) to finish ferment and to age 11 months. The wine begins with buttery aromas mingled with ripe apples and vanilla. The wine is rich on the palate, with flavours of apple and vanilla that go to a long, long finish. The wine is not shy on oak. 94.

Meyer McLean Creek Road Chardonnay 2023 ($32.26 for 373 cases). The long, cool fermentation began in stainless steel and finished in French oak barrels (22% new). The wine aged for 11 months on the lees, without stirring. The wine begins with fresh citrus aromas leading to bright flavours of citrus and apple mingled with a hint of vanilla. The oak is much more restrained than the Old Main Road Chardonnay and the fruit is brighter, with a refreshing finish. 95.

Meyer Chardonnay 2024 ($21.83 for 2,000 cases). The fruit for this wine is from the Yakima Valley AVA in Washington State. The juice was fermented in the Okanagan in stainless steel and aged six months in neutral French oak puncheons, with natural malolactic fermentation. This is a delicious wine. Aromas of apples and pears lead to flavours of apple, pear and peach. 91.

Meyer Pinot Noir Rosé 2024 ($20.96 for 325 cases). The grapes are from vineyards in Washington’s Columbia Valley AVA. A 12-hour skin contact has given the wine an appealing rose petal hue; the wine presents well in the glass. It has aromas and flavours of strawberries and watermelon. 90.

Meyer McLean Creek Road Pinot Noir 2023 ($37.48 for 1,000 cases). This vineyard, where planting began in 1994, is in the Okanagan Falls Sub-GI. There are five clones in this wine: the Pommard clone and Dijon 114, 115, 667 and 777. The fruit went into open-top fermenters (25% whole cluster), allowed a cold soak and then was fermented with indigenous yeast for two weeks. The wine was aged in French oak barrels (20% new) for 11 months. It is a robust wine with aromas and flavours of dark cherry, plum and vanilla. There is a hint of spice and toastiness on the finish. 91.

Mayhem Pinot Gris 2024 ($21.83 for 333 cases). The fruit is from the Ancient Lakes AVA in Washington State. The grapes were crushed there and the juice was transported to the Okanagan for a long cool ferment in stainless steel, with 19% finishing ferment in seasoned puncheons. The wine spent four months resting on fine lees before bottling. The wine delivers mouth filling flavours of peaches and apples. 88.

Mayhem Anarchy Pinot Gris 2024 ($26.18 for 165 cases). The fruit for this wine is from a vineyard in Washington’s Ancient Lakes AVA. It has a long, cool fermentation in the Okanagan in stainless steel, followed by seven months of aging in stainless steel (47%), a ceramic ball (39%) and neutral puncheons (14%). All of this resulted in a complex wine that begins with lovely orchard fruit aromas. The palate delivers flavours of citrus and nectarine, with a long finish. 92.

Mayhem Sauvignon Blanc 2024 ($21.83 for 544 cases). The fruit for this wine came from vineyards in Washington’s Wahluke Slope AVA. The wine was fermented cool over a seven-week period, with 89% in stainless steel and 11% in a seasoned barrique. The fine was aged four months on fine lees before bottling. It has aromas of lime and grapefruit. It is intense on the palate, with flavours of lime, grapefruit and grapefruit rind. 90.

Mayhem Anarchy Sauvignon Blanc 2024 ($26.18 for 230 cases). The grapes are from vineyards in Washington’s Wahluke Slope AVA. The juice was fermented in the Okanagan for eight weeks. Fermentation started in stainless steel; then the wine was transferred to seasoned barriques and puncheons for seven months before bottling. Aromas of lime and pineapple are echoed on the palate. The texture is generous and the finish is tangy. 92.

b>Mayhem Rosé 2024 ($21.83 for 411 cases; 102 magnums also produced, with $5 from the sale of each magnum donated to Breast Cancer Canada). The Merlot grapes for this wine came from a vineyard in Washington’s Wahluke Slope AVA. The wine presents with an appealing rose petal hue. It has aromas and flavours of wild strawberries. The finish is crisp and refreshing. 90.

Mayhem Sparkling White 2024 ($88 for a 12-pack of 250 ml cans; 300 flats produced). The three varietals in this wine – Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay – are all from Washington State. The wine is lightly effervescent with aromas and flavours of orchard fruits. The finish is crisp. The convenient package recommends itself to picnics. 88.

Mayhem Cabernet Merlot 2023 ($28.16 for 22 cases). This is a blend of 79% Merlot and 21% Cabernet Franc. The individual varietals were aged 11 months in French oak before blending and bottling. The wine has aromas of dark cherry, black currant and vanilla leading to bright fruit flavours of red and black currants, cherry and blueberry. 91.

1 Mill Road adds Washington wine to its portfolio

Photo: Katie Truscott and Ben Bryant

Along with many other Okanagan wine producers, Ben Bryant and Katie Truscott of 1 Mill Road Winery harvested no fruit from their Naramata vineyards in 2024 because the freezing temperatures early that winter. None of their vines were killed but none produced grapes. The vines were pruned hard and allowed to recover. This year, Ben and Katie expect a reasonable crop, supplemented with grapes from any premium blocks they can contract elsewhere in the Okanagan. The focus remains Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

1 Mill Road, based in Naramata, was launched exclusively with Pinot Noir by the original owners, David and Cynthia Enns. Ben, an Australian-trained winemaker, and Katie, an expert wine marketer, took over the business in the summer of 2022. They began expanding the portfolio with Chardonnay grapes from a Naramata Bench grower, and with a Pinot Noir rosé. The wines are of exquisite quality. The winery’s 2023 Chardonnay was recently awarded 95 points in the prestigious Decanter wine competition.

Ben and Katie managed the setback of no grapes in 2024 like their peers: they sourced grapes in Washington State, and have just released the first wine, a 2024 Grenache rosé. Later this year, or early next year, they will release a red wine from Grenache and a Syrah. “We were very quick to source that fruit last year,” Ben says. He called a viticulturist friend at Chateau Ste Michelle, the big Washington winery that, in a downsizing move, had dropped a number of growers. “I asked, who is one of your best growers that you let go. That was how I got connected with the Andrews family.” They own the Coyote Canyon Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. “They had some fruit that was no longer needed,” Ben adds. “I was very fortunate.”

“We wanted to source from a like-minded grower family,” he continues. “We went to Horse Heaven Hills and a vineyard owned by the Andrews family. They are a multi-generational farming family. Jeff Andrews farms a lot of grapes. They are big suppliers to Chateau Ste Michelle. We decided straight away that is who we wanted to work with. And we wanted to do Grenache and Syrah.”

“From a business perspective, we avoided Pinot Noir and Chardonnay completely,” Ben says. Since 1 Mill Road’s reputation is based on Naramata-grown Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, Ben and Katie chose to keep making those signature varietals exclusively with Okanagan grapes. “There was plenty of Pinot and Chardonnay available [in the United States] and we could easily have gone to Oregon,” Ben says. “We chose deliberately not to. For 1 Mill Road, we want the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir to be from British Columbia. We don’t want to reference point somewhere else for these varietals.”

There is very little Grenache and limited tonnage of Syrah in the Okanagan after the 2024 winter damage. 1 Mill Road’s clientele are likely to welcome these wines from imported fruit. If they do, Ben may continue sourcing these varietals from Washington in future years. “We are not doing it in vintage 2025,” Ben says. He is concerned about the political and tariff uncertainty that could arise with imported fruit this year. “But we will definitely look at continuing with Grenache and Syrah in the future for sure.” Here are notes on current releases.

1 Mill Road Chardonnay 2023 ($48 for 170 cases). The fruit for this barrel-fermented Chardonnay is from vines planted in 1998 in a Naramata vineyard. (One-third of the barrels were new French oak). The wine begins with appealing orchard fruit aromas mingled with a hint of oak. The palate is complex, with flavours of peach, citrus and apple with a hint of almond. The clean, fresh finish is exceptionally long. 95.

1 Mill Road Grenache Rosé 2024 ($38 for 180 cases). The fruit for this wine is from Washington’s Horse Heaven Hills AVA. The juice was fermented cool, primarily in stainless steel with 26% fermented to dryness in neutral French oak barriques, with bi-weekly stirring of the lees for four months. This added texture. The wine begins with a delicate salmon hue, in the manner of Provençal rosés. Dry on the finish, the wine has aromas and flavours of blood orange, watermelon and strawberry. 90.

1 Mill Road Home Block Pinot Noir 2023 ($67 for 200 cases). The vineyard for this fruit was planted in 2013 entirely to clone 115. The grapes were given a four-day cold soak and then were on the skins for 18 days before being pressed to barrel. The wine was aged for nine months in French oak barriques (28% new). A richly textured wine, it has aromas and flavours of cherry, plum and spice. The finish persists. 94.

Township 7's Interlude Series fills in for the Okanagan's lost 2024 vintage

Photo: Winemaker Mary McDermott

Township 7 Vineyards & Winery quickly followed its early spring release of four VQA wines with a late spring release of four 2024 wines made with imported fruit and labelled as the Interlude Series. An unavoidable delay on my part resulted in notes on both releases be presented this summer. The VQA wines are from several of the best recent vintages from the Okanagan: 2021, 2022 and 2023. The January 2024 freeze eliminated that vintage in the Okanagan.

In her notes accompanying the wines, Township 7 winemaker Mary McDermott put the Interlude wines in their context: the freeze in January 2024 forced the winery (and many of its peers) to import grapes for that vintage. “In past years, particularly 2021 and 2023, I noted those vintages were among the most challenging we’d faced,” she wrote. “It turns out I spoke too soon. We entered the 2024 season with optimism following a mild fall and winter. Unfortunately, that hope was quickly dashed by a devastating cold snap in mid-January. Temperatures plummeted from 0◦C on January 10th to -14◦C the next day, then to -23◦C on January 12, ultimately bottoming out at -27◦C on January 13. The result was catastrophic vine death and severe crop loss. Early bud tests revealed no signs of life, and we braced for the worst – preparing to replant nearly everything.”

She continues her narrative: “To our relief, many vines produced cane growth and leaves. In Naramata, most vines survived, but Oliver suffered extensive damage, forcing us to remove entire blocks of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. These will be replanted in 2025.” “Given the crop loss in the South Okanagan, we sourced premium fruit from trusted growers in Washington State and California to meet production needs,” Mary added. “This ensured our business’s sustainability, kept our valued team employed, and allowed us to continue investing in our vineyards – all while providing our cherished customers with the quality wines they expect from Township 7."

While most consumers will find Interlude (and similar wines from other wineries) to be adequate stand-ins, the quality of the VQA wines reminds us what great terroir what great terroir there is in British Columbia in most vintages.

Here are notes on the two releases.

Township 7 Benchmark Series Gewürztraminer 2022 ($29.97 for 198 cases). Here is a serious Gewürztraminer that one might think is from a top producer in Alsace. It begins with aromas of lychee and ginger, leading to complex flavours of lychee, quince and stone fruits. The luscious palate leads to a long, long finish. 92.

Township 7 Benchmark Series Viognier 2023 ($30.97 for 106 cases). Made with South Okanagan fruit, this wine was fermented in neutral French oak barrels. This is a stellar example of the varietal, beginning with aromas of pear and guava with a hint of vanilla. Rich in texture, the wine delivers flavours of mango, guava and pineapple. 92.

Township 7 Provenance Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($33.97 for 383 cases). There is 5% Merlot blended into this elegant wine. The wine begins with aromas of black currant, dark cherry and plum, which is echoed on the palate. The firm tannins suggest the wine should be decanted for early consumption; it will also age superbly. 91.

Township 7 Benchmark Series Reserve 7 2021 ($44.97 for 453 cases). This is a blend of 53.5% Merlot, 35.7% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10.8% Cabernet Franc. It is a big, ripe wine, beginning with aromas of black cherry, black currant and a hint of tobacco. The palate delivers what the aroma promises along with cedar and spice on the finish. 92.

Township 7 Interlude Series Sauvignon Blanc 2024 ($26.97 for 340 cases). The fruit for this wine is from the Bacchus Vineyard in Washington’s Wahluke Slope AVA. The juice was fermented cool, primarily in stainless steel as well as two second-fill French barriques to add texture. This is a zesty wine with aromas and flavours of lime and grapefruit. 90.

Township 7 Interlude Series Pinot Gris 202b>4 ($26.97 for 430 cases). The fruit for this wine came from a vineyard near Chelan in Washington state. The golden hue and rich palate suggests the wine had more skin contact that the technical notes suggest. There are flavours of ripe nectarines. 88.

Township 7 Interlude Series Chardonnay 2024 ($27.97 for 432 cases). The fruit for this wine was sourced from a vineyard in California’s Russian River Valley near Sonoma. The wine is fruit-forward, with aromas and flavours of apple and pear. 90.

Township 7 Interlude Series Rosé 2024 ($29.97 for 328 cases). The fruit for this wine is Pinot Noir from California’s Russian River Valley. The dark hue presents will in the glass but is perhaps unfashionably dark. A juicy wine, it has aromas and flavours of cherry and wild strawberry. 90.

Bordertown's Gill family launches sister winery

Photo: Mohan Gill

The new 2024 releases from Bordertown Cider & Winery in Osoyoos will take consumers by surprise: the three whites coming to market are all VQA wines, meaning they were made with Okanagan fruit, not imported grapes. Most of the vineyards supporting Mohan Gill’s Bordertown are close to Osoyoos Lake. During the January 2024 freeze that devastated most Okanagan vineyards, the lake had not yet frozen over. There was just enough residual warmth in the open water to moderate the temperatures so that the surviving vines were able to produce from fruit in the fall of 2024.

While the production was well below the usual volume, Mohan at least has some VQA wine to sell. Not much, however. The winery released 275 cases of Pinot Gris from 2024, down from 3,584 cases in 2023; 78 cases of Viognier from 2024, down from 265 cases the year before; and 42 cases of Grüner Veltliner from 2024, down from 350 cases the year before. Those numbers imply that Mohan had enough surviving vines that Bordertown’s production should rebound in 2025. So far, this growing season has had a promising start.

Fans of Bordertown this year have the option of new wines from After 93 Vineyards & Estate Winery, a sister producer run by Mohan’s nephew, Sukhvir Gill. On its web page, After 93 explains that the brand has been created to further a legacy: “A legacy which the Gill family began in 1993 when they first moved to Canada. Their odyssey epitomises the progression of three generations … dedicated to the pursuit of growing premium vinifera grapes and crafting extraordinary wines ….” Sukhvir is one of the four third-generation Gill family members growing wines. They farm over 200 acres of vineyards spread throughout the Okanagan from Osoyoos to Peachland and West Kelowna. After 93’s wines will focus of small lot vineyard blocks.

The text elaborates on the owner’s biography: “Sukhvir represents the next generation of the Gill family, bringing innovation and ambition to the family’s long-standing legacy. After earning his degree from the Sauder School of Business in 2020, Sukhvir entered the family business with determination and vision. Having grown up in Osoyoos, BC, he spent his formative years immersed in the world of orchards, vineyards, and winemaking, closely observing and learning from his father, Gurmit, and uncle, Mohan. Deeply inspired by the decades of hard work and dedication that built his family’s success, Sukhvir recognized his purpose in carrying forward and expanding their legacy. With Bordertown Winery already established as a testament to the Gill family’s commitment to excellence, he saw an opportunity to take their business to new heights by reaching broader markets and introducing their wines to a global audience. In 2021, this vision took shape with the creation of After 93—a brand born from innovation, heritage, and a desire to redefine wine experiences for a new generation."

“Sukhvir created After 93 with a singular vision: to elevate the wine experience for customers and ensure every interaction reflects the passion and craftsmanship behind each bottle. Building on the rich legacy of the Gill family and the success of Bordertown Winery, Sukhvir recognized the need to go beyond simply producing exceptional wines. He envisioned a brand that prioritizes the customer journey, from vineyard to glass, ensuring that every sip embodies quality, authenticity, and care.” After 93’s consulting winemaker is Daniel Bontorin, also the long-time consultant for Bordertown.

Here are notes on the wines.

Bordertown Pinot Gris 2024 ($22 for 275 cases). This wine won a gold medal at the recent All-Canadian Wine Championships. The wine, which was aged in stainless steel, has aromas of peach and pear, leading to flavours of citrus, orchard fruits and a hint of pineapple. 91

Bordertown Viognier 2024 ($22 for 78 cases). This wine was made with Osoyoos fruit, with just one ton per acre, reflecting the impact of the frost on production. The result, however, is a wine more luscious and concentrated that usual. It has aromas and flavours of peach, mango, pineapple and quince. 92.

Bordertown Grüner Veltliner 2024 ($22 for 42 cases). This wine was also made with Osoyoos fruit from vines that yielded just one ton an acre. The wine is crisp and fresh, with citrus notes lifted with bright acidity. 90.

Bordertown Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($22 wholesale for 1,199 cases). Made with Osoyoos fruit, the wine was aged between 12 and 18 months in French oak. Aromas of cassis spring from the glass. The palate delivers flavours of black currant, dark cherry and spice. 92.

After 93 Pinot Gris 2023 ($28 for 518 cases). The fruit for this wine is from the Gill family’s vineyard in West Kelowna. The wine has been aged 18 months in stainless steel. It has aromas and flavours of peach and pear with a full texture and a satisfying finish. 91.

After 93 Moscato Frizzante 2023 ($30 for 315 cases). The fruit for this sparkling wine is from the Gill family’s Osoyoos vineyard, where 1.2-acres of Muscat grapes were planted in 2010. The wine was fermented and aged in stainless steel and has been lightly carbonated. It features intensely spicy aromas and flavours with a crisp, dry finish. 91.

After 93 Rosé Frizzante NV ($30 for 291 cases). The grapes in this sparkling wine are one-third Merlot, two-thirds Cabernet Franc. Each varietal was fermented separately in stainless steel, then blended and aged 18 months in stainless steel. It was lightly carbonated at bottling. This presents in the glass with visually appealing rose petal hues and a light effervescence. It has aromas and flavours of raspberry and strawberry. The finish is crisp and refreshing. 90.