Tinhorn Creek is refreshing its vineyards

Photo: Winemaker Leandro Nosal

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards has begun replanting its vineyards in a massive multi-year project aimed both at adjusting to climate change and at producing even better wines. “In five to 10 years, we will be making much better wines because of the new material we are planting,” says winemaker Leandro Nosal. “Farming is adapting to the new weather conditions we are all facing.”

“We are a young valley,” Leandro continues, referring to the Okanagan. “We have only been making serious wine for the last 40 years. We now know better how the vines and the rootstocks respond, mostly to extremes. We need to bullet-proof our production against those extremes that are more frequent. We cannot lose the vines every five years. We need to be better prepared.” Tinhorn Creek, which was established in 1993, is one of the South Okanagan’s most established wineries. It has its 50-acre estate vineyard on the Golden Mile Bench and the 100-acre Diamondback Vineyard on Black Sage Road. Since being acquired in 2017 by Andrew Peller Ltd., the winery also has access to fruit from other vineyards owned by the Peller group. “We are changing clones, working with different plant density and working on better row orientation,” Leandro says about the replanting. “We want to make better wines and we are aware that starts in the vineyards.”

The quality bar at Tinhorn Creek is high already. However, subtle changes to the portfolio are expected to flow from the vineyard redevelopment. There will be a stronger focus on top tier varietal wines, notably Cabernet Franc and Chardonnay. At the same time, the winery will continue to make its well-regarded Merlot, its top-selling red wine, along with such popular varietals as Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer, some with fruit from other Peller vineyards.

Leandro, who was born in Mendoza in 1984, the wine capital of Argentina, and trained in Europe, joined Tinhorn Creek in 2021. He has extensive experience making wine in Argentina, Mexico, New Zealand, Europe and Ontario. He brings an impressive resumé of education and international experience to Tinhorn Creek. He has an Agricultural Engineering degree from Universidad Nacional de Cuyo in Mendoza, as well as a Master of Science in Viticulture and Oenology, earned while studying abroad in Montpellier in France and Torino in Italy. He also has a business management certificate from the University of Toronto School 0f Continuing Studies. He came to the Okanagan in 2014, working first at LaStella Winery and then moving to the Mission Hill group of wineries. He was assistant winemaker at CedarCreek Estate Winery from February 2016 to May 2017; then assistant winemaker at Mission Hill Family Estate Winery for a year; and then assistant winemaker at Checkmate Artisanal Winery for three years until he was recruited by Tinhorn Creek.

“When I first came to Canada, the Okanagan reminded me of Mendoza,” Leandro told me last year. “We have those same hot, dry summers. If the vines have the right amount of water with irrigation, you can ripen fruit perfectly. You have the cool nights. That is fantastic because you keep that freshness.” “I am a winemaker in one of the most promising wine regions of North America,” Leandro writes at his LinkedIn page. “The Okanagan valley, in British Columbia, is coming of age, showing all its greatness and I am proud to be crafting wines here.”

Here are notes on the wines.

Tinhorn Creek Gewürztraminer 2022 ($22). The 2022 vintage suited this varietal. The cool spring and the long, moderate autumn developed flavour, preserved the acidity, and moderated the alcohol (13% in 2022 versus 14% in the hot 2021 vintage). This wine has lychee and ginger aromas and flavours; a generous texture and a long finish. 90.

Tinhorn Creek Pinot Gris 2022 ($24). This wine was fermented cool in stainless steel and oak barrels and was kept on the fine lees three months before being bottled. The wine has aromas and flavours of pear and quince, with bright acidity giving the wine a crisp, refreshing finish. 90.

Tinhorn Creek Chardonnay Estate 2021 ($25 for 2,210 cases). The grapes for this wine were whole-bunch pressed and fermented half in oak barrels and half in stainless steel barrels. The wine was aged six months in oak. This is an attractive, fruit-forward wine with aromas and flavours of citrus; and a slight hint of butter on the finish. 92.

Tinhorn Creek Chardonnay Reserve 2021 ($37). The grapes for this wine were whole-bunch pressed and fermented and aged 14 months in French oak. The wine begins with buttery aromas of tropical fruit, leading to a rich palate with flavours of apples, pears, and spice. The finish goes on and on. 93.

Tinhorn Creek Reserve Rosé 2022 ($25). “Rosé is one of my favourite wines to make,” says Leandro. The hallmark of his rosé style is blending: this wine is 67% Syrah, 20% Cabernet Franc and 13% Merlot. Each parcel of fruit was whole-bunch pressed, fermented cool in stainless steel, blended and aged three months on fine lees. It presents in the glass with a delicate (but not anaemic) hue. It has aromas and flavours of strawberry and watermelon with a hint of pink grapefruit. Bright acidity gives the wine a crisp, refreshing finish. 91.

Tinhorn Creek Merlot 2020 ($25). After a two-day cold soak, the crushed berries are fermented slowly with natural yeast, with a long period of maceration. The wine is aged 12 to 14 months in French, American and Hungarian oak barrels. The wine begins with aromas of cassis and vanilla, leading to flavours of plum, dark cherry and blueberry. The firm texture assures that this wine will develop further complexity over the next five years. 91.

Tinhorn Creek Cabernet Franc 2020 ($30). The fruit was fermented with natural yeast in stainless steel and aged 12 months in French, American and Hungarian oak barrels. The wine begins with aromas of spice and blackberry leading to flavours of red currant. 92.

Tinhorn Creek Cabernet Franc 2021 ($30). This wine also was aged in about 12 months in a selection of oak barrels. Despite 2021 being a very hot year, Leandro was able to make a bright, quaffable wine without too much alcohol and no hint of smoke. It has aromas and flavours of blackberry and black cherry. 91.

Tinhorn Creek Cabernet Franc Reserve 2020 ($40). This wine was aged 18 months in French oak. The texture and the flavours are concentrated, with notes of spice, dark cherry, blackberry, chocolate and tobacco. The finish is very long. 94.

Tinhorn Creek Blanc de Blanc 2018 ($45). Tinhorn Creek’s first traditional method sparkling wine, this wine won gold in the 2022 National Wine Awards. It is 100% Chardonnay. It is an elegant and sophisticated wine with notes of brioche and apple in both the aroma and the palate. The fine bubbles give the wine an initial creamy texture; but the finish is crisp. 91.

Apricus Cellars: Sam Baptiste's latest contribution to Okanagan wine

Photo: Grapegrower and winery promoter Sam Baptiste

When Sam Baptiste, the legendary grape grower, drives to Apricus Cellars in the District Wine Village north of Oliver, he passes the sprawling Jackson-Triggs winery complex, a project he had a crucial role in launching. Jackson-Triggs is a successor to T.G. Bright & Co., which opened the original winery on the site in 1982. It almost did not happen but for the decisiveness of Sam.

Sam was then the elected chief of the Osoyoos Indian Band. Brights, which was headquartered in Niagara Falls and was Canada’s oldest winery, proposed leasing land from the band for an 800,000-gallon winery. Within First Nations circles, the proposal was controversial. "It almost didn't happen," Sam once told me in an interview. He recalled some chiefs telling him: "Sam, the biggest problem on every reserve is alcoholism -- and you're putting in a winery!" His first reaction was to call off the talks with Brights but he changed his mind after the meeting with other chiefs. "I thought about it and I decided it was none of their business."

The $1.9 million investment by Brights was a foundation for the extensive involvement of the Osoyoos Indian Band in the South Okanagan’s wine industry. Chief Clarence Louie, who succeeded Sam as the band’s chief, told me proudly once of the many band members who, far from having problems with alcohol, were retiring on pensions after a long career in the various wine businesses on the reserve. One of those businesses is the 304-acre Inkameep Vineyard just northeast of Oliver. Sam went to work there in 1987 after leaving band politics. Under his management, the vineyard has come to be one of the most highly regarded vineyards in the South Okanagan. He was in charge of replanting the hybrid grape varieties with vinifera grapes.

A few years ago, Sam, who still is Inkameep’s manager, headed a group of investors to create the Apricus Cellars winery. His winemaker is Aaron Crey (above), who had learned his art during 17 years at Nk’Mip Cellars in Osoyoos. Nk’Mip, which made its first vintage in 2000, is a joint venture of Jackson-Triggs and the Osoyoos band. Aaron, who was mentored by Randy Picton, the now-retired winemaker at Nk’Mip Cellars in Osoyoos, had become the cellarmaster at Nk’Mip before Sam recruited him for Apricus where he gets to fly on his own at a start-up winery.

The District “not only provides a platform for entrepreneurs and young winemakers to showcase their creations, but it has also attracted seasoned professionals from larger production backgrounds, who have a desire to switch gears and focus on smaller and more specialized wine production,” Aaron said in a 2021 interview with the Castenet news service. “It sounded like a good opportunity and something I wanted to be part of. There is a lot of history here. Really brilliant people, who have helped shape the Okanagan wine industry have gravitated towards this place, and I think that’s really unique.”

On its website, the winery explains its name. “Apricus Cellars was born out of our love for the climate, land, soil, and sun of the South Okanagan and the fruit grown in those elements. Apricus (äˈpriːkʊs̠) is a medieval Latin word that means both ’basking in sunshine’ and ‘delectable’. No word better describes our wine and the environment in which we produce it.” “Of utmost importance at Apricus Cellars is showcasing the outstanding quality of the fruit grown for us just minutes up the road,” the winery continues, referencing Inkameep Vineyards. “One of our owners often says, ‘you can’t make chicken salad out of chicken droppings.’ Likewise, you can’t make the best wine without the best grapes”. The current Apricus portfolio is small, perhaps because the capacity of its pod in the District is 2,500 cases. But the wines are very well made. Here are notes.

Apricus Daybreak 2020 ($26.50). This is a blend of 50% Ehrenfelser and 25% each of Riesling and Pinot Gris. The wine is fermented in stainless steel to preserve the aromatic properties, which dominate the aromas. On the palate, there are flavours of pear, melon and citrus. The finish is crisp. 90.

Apricus Aurora 2020 ($29.75). This is 100% Pinot Gris, fermented 75% in stainless steel and 25% in neutral oak; the latter has given the wine a full texture. It has aromas and flavours of pear, apple and peach. The finish lingers. 91.

Apricus Eclipse 2020 ($29.75). This is 100% Chardonnay fermented and aged six months in new French oak. Big and buttery, this is a traditional-styled Chardonnay. Aromas of almonds mingle with flavours of pear. Again, the finish is long. 92.

Apricus Rosé 2022 ($N/A). This is a blend of 50% Tempranillo, 50% Malbec. The wine has aromas and flavours of raspberry and watermelon, with a crisp, dry finish. 90.

Apricus Zephyr 2018 ($34). The blend is 75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 5% Malbec, aged 24 months in French oak. It has aromas of dark fruits and cassis, echoed on the palate. 92.

Apricus Aspect 2019 ($69). The blend is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, and 5% each of Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. The wine was also aged 24 months in French oak. This is a dark and intense red with aromas of red fruits. On the palate, there are flavours of plum, black currant, dark chocolate and spice. 94.

Covert Farms releases 2022 whites

Photo: Winery owner Gene Covert (courtesy of Covert Farms)

Covert Farms Family Estate is one of the South Okanagan’s longest-established and most successful farming enterprises. It was established in 1959 by Californian-born George Covert. He had succeeded there as a wholesaler and shipper of fruits and vegetables until he chanced to hear about the Okanagan and its potential. The square mile of property he bought on promontory north of Oliver soon became a major producer of grapes, vegetables and tree fruits. His grandson, Gene, operates the farm today, having transformed it entirely to organic production, notable for biodynamic and regenerative agricultural practices.

In spite of the property’s long history, a winery was established here only in 2006. “Our wines are crafted using 100% estate-grown grapes with minimal intervention and natural fermentation where possible,” the winery explains in a note with the current releases. [The wines] “are certified salmon safe and vegan. White wines display a purity of fruit and crisp natural acidity coveted by growers, while our low-yielding farming results in terroir-focussed, artisan reds that are luscious and age-worthy.”

Here are notes on current releases.

Covert Farms Ancestral Sparkling Zinfandel 2021 ($32.80 for 308 cases). This wine began its fermentation in stainless steel tanks and then fed directly into bottles to complete fermentation. The wine has an appealing light copper hue. It begins with a froth of bubbles into the glass and with a fruity aroma. On the palate, there are flavours of pink grapefruit mingled with cantaloupe. 89.

Covert Farms Chardonnay 2022 ($27.90 for 167 cases). This wine was fermented in French oak barrels (75% neutral, 25% first fill). The wine has aromas and flavours of citrus and pear mingled with buttery notes. The texture is rich. There is a hint of spice on the finish. 90.

Covert Farms Sauvignon Blanc Sémillon 2022 ($25.80 for 556 cases). The blend is 69% Sauvignon Blanc, 23% Sémillon and 8% Viognier. The wine was fermented in stainless steel. The wine is crisp and packed with tropical fruits (lime, guava) with herbal notes on the persistent finish. 92.

Covert Farms Pinot Blanc 2022 ($23.80 for 178 cases). This wine was fermented in stainless steel and aged on the lees. The wine begins with aromas of apple and stone fruit. It delivers flavours of pear and apple and displays a fleshy texture. 90.

Covert Farms Grand Reserve Roussanne 2018 ($35.80 for 50 cases). The sample I received was corked but I would recommend the wine on the strength of the previous vintage. The cork taint was not too severe, just enough to suppress the underlying rich fruit. Covert Farms Grand Reserve Roussanne 2017 ($43.90 for 44 cases). This wine fermented for 35 days and then was aged 10 months sur lies in neutral French oak barrels. The wine presents with a light golden hue. It begins with aromas of stone fruit and vanilla. On the palate, there are flavours of apricot and peach. The flavours are remarkably bright for a six-year-old wine. The texture is rich and the finish lingers. 91.

Covert Farms Rosé 2022 ($25.90 for 300 cases). The blend is 59% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Pinot Noir. The winery bled off juice from tanks of those varietals and co-fermented the juice, aging the wine on the lees in stainless steel for four months. This is a bold rosé with a vibrant hue. It is packed with fruit: cherries and strawberries in the aroma and palate. A touch of residual sweetness gives it a juicy texture. 90.

How Blue Mountain minimized damage during the 2022 winter

Photo: Winemaker Matt Mavety

If memory serves, Blue Mountain Vineyard and Cellars has released these three white wines a little earlier than in earlier years. Perhaps the winery needed to get product into the hands of consumers and restaurants, restocking a pipeline that was a bit empty after Blue Mountain’s decision not to release any wines from the smoke-affected 2021 vintage. The 2022 whites do not taste hurried. If anything, the fruit comes across as bright and fresh, reflecting the quality of the 2022 vintage.

As has now been widely reported, the nature of that vintage set the wine industry up for so much damage in the 2022-23 winter that this year’s grape crop will be about half of last year’s. The 2022 vintage started with a late and cold spring, setting the vines back about three weeks. The vines began to catch up during a warm July, a prelude to perfect conditions for maturing quality fruit through to the end of October. Some producers took advantage of the fine weather (shirt sleeves at the end of October) to let grapes hang. That proved to be a trap. Vines need a few weeks after harvest to go into dormancy for winter. But it got cold in November and stayed bitterly cold. Substantial plantings were killed by the cold; lucky ones only suffered bud damage.

Blue Mountain’s vineyards came through last winter better than many Okanagan vineyards. “There is bud damage, and I would anticipate 60% of a normal harvest at this point but it is also very difficult to evaluate with the heterogenous nature of the vine growth and fruit,” winemaker Matt Mavety told me recently. “We do not have much vine death. There is some, but very minimal and usually on plants that likely had another stress before the cold.” Judging from the specification sheets for these three wines, I believe that good viticultural practises got Blue Mountain through the 2022 vintage a lot better than most growers.

The reason: the harvests at Blue Mountain were early enough that the vines were into dormancy before it got too cold. The Pinot Gris grapes were picked September 30, October 6 and October 8. The Pinot Blanc was picked October 12. The Sauvignon Blanc grapes were picked October 1 and October 16. “All the fruit was picked by the 20th of October and all the vines showed good signs of hardening off for the winter,” Matt says. Those timely picks in a late vintage are not surprising, considering that Ian Mavety, who runs the vineyard with his son, Matt, has been farming this vineyard since the early 1970s.

“I would like to claim savvy viticulture but we also must accept there is luck at play with the autumn weather,” Matt says. “Crop load, picking dates, irrigation management and general vine health would be some of the factors that we had some control over during the 2022 growing season. For Blue Mountain, our absolute cold temperatures in December of 2022 were not as cold as some vineyards in the South and North parts of the valley.” I accept his modesty. I also recognize that Blue Mountain does not grow late-ripening Bordeaux or Rhone grapes. However, there is no doubt that the Mavety family are intelligent and experienced farmers – and it showed in 2022.

Here are notes on the wines.

Blue Mountain Pinot Gris 2022 ($26). The wine was fermented 38% in stainless steel, 45% in 500-litre French oak barrels and 20% in an oak cask. The oak added complexity and texture without noticeable oak flavours, for this is still a lively, fruit-forward wine. It begins with appealing citrus aromas leading to flavours of citrus, pear and spice. 92.

Blue Mountain Pinot Blanc 2022 ($26). The fruit is from 37-year-old vines (the Pinot Gris vines are a year younger). Fermentation was similar to the Pinot Gris, with a little more neutral oak, and the wine was aged six months on the lees. That gave it a rich texture, complementing the aromas and flavours of apple and stone fruit. 91.

Blue Mountain Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($26). The fruit is from a high-density vineyard planted 15 and 16 years ago. Fermentation was done with indigenous yeast (as were the other wines) in a combination of stainless steel tanks and large format oak, with five months aging on the lees. Aromas of herbs and grapefruit are echoed on the palate. 91.