Fitzpatrick's bubbles and friends

Photo: Winery president Gordon Fitzpatrick

Since opening in 2017, Fitzpatrick Family Vineyards has focussed primarily on sparkling wines because its Greata Ranch vineyard south of Peachland is best suited to make that style of wine. The Fitzpatricks – Senator Ross and his son, Gordon, - acquired this property in 1994. This had once been the largest orchard in the Okanagan; and the senator’s father had bought fruit for his own packinghouse. However, it was derelict by the time the senator purchased it, with the intension of developing a vineyard and building condominiums. The residential development never materialized but 40 acres of vineyard were planted. In 2003, the Greata Ranch Reserve Winery opened.

By design and perhaps by good luck, the vineyard was planted primarily with the appropriate varietals for sparkling wine, notably Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc. Most of the fruit was sold to CedarCreek Estate Winery, then also owned by the senator. The winemaker at the time suggested the Greata Ranch fruit was best suited for sparkling wine. After selling CedarCreek in 2014, the Fitzpatricks refocussed Greata Ranch. The strategy is explained on the Fitzpatrick Family Vineyards website:

“Our Fitz Brut and Reserve tiers of sparkling are both made in the traditional method. What sets them apart is both bottle-aging and approach. Our sparkling wines also mirror the philosophy of the grower Champagnes of France, where the wines are made only from grapes grown on the maker's estates and from a single vintage. “Fitz Brut is our signature Cuvée, which is a French term for blend. Our first vintages were made with a combination of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but as of 2015, also a hint of Meunier.

“We take a vintage approach to our Brut much like the grower Champagnes of France where we adjust the blend percentages from vintage to vintage and strive to evoke a clear statement on the year, terroir and people who contributed to the wine’s development. Fitz Brut spends no less than 24 months aging on lees. “At present, we have three Fitz Reserve Sparkling Wines: a Blanc de Blancs, a Blanc de Noir and a Sparkling Rosé. The Blanc de Blancs is made with 100% estate grown Chardonnay, the Blanc de Noir is made with 100% estate grown Pinot Noir and the Sparkling Rosé is comprised of 100% estate grown Pinot Noir.” “Each is made with the same vintage-specific philosophy as the Brut where showcasing the style of the year will prevail over the Champagne region's approach to blending for uniformity. We chose to evoke the uniqueness of time and place in each vintage. Our Reserve Sparkling Wines spend no less than 36 months aging on lees.”

Recognizing that many consumers still do not think of sparkling wine as an every-day beverage, Fitzpatrick Family Vineyards also offers an extensive portfolio of still wines. Here are notes.

Fitzpatrick Fitz Brut 2018 ($34.50). The wine is 73% Chardonnay, 25% Pinot Noir and 2% Meunier. It was aged on the lees for about 36 months. This is an elegant wine with fine, steady bubbles. In the aroma, notes of brioche mingle with Asian pear. The palate is clean and focussed, with flavours of citrus. The finish is persistent. 93.

Fitzpatrick Reserve Blanc de Blancs 2019 ($44.50). This wine, which is 100% Chardonnay, was fermented in neutral French oak and was aged on the lees “a minimum” of 36 months. That has given the wine the classic note of brioche in the aroma and on the palate, along with notes apple and citrus. The bubbles are fine and vigorous, creating a creamy impression on the palate. The finish, however, is crisp. 93.

Fitzpatrick Runabout White 2022 ($17.50 for 755 cases). This is a blend of 45% Pinot Blanc, 30% Chardonnay, 10% Gewürztraminer, 10% Ehrenfelser and 5% Riesling. The wine was aged in stainless steel for about 25 days. The value here is superb. This wine begins with floral aromatics mingled with stone fruits. That is echoed on the palate, along with notes of green apple. The finish is crisp, dry and very refreshing. 91.

Fitzpatrick Interloper Gewürztraminer 2022 ($20.50 for 385 cases). Thirty percent of the grapes were allowed to spend 12 hours on skins to extract additional flavour; the rest was whole bunch pressed. The wine had a long, slow fermentation of eight weeks, with fermentation and aging in stainless steel. The wine begins with aromas of lychee and ginger which are echoed on the palate, along with a curious hint of mushroom. 88.

Fitzpatrick The Unwinder Ehrenfelser 2022 ($20.50 for 446 cases). The wine, a blend of grapes from the estate vineyard and from the South Okanagan, had a cool 21-day fermentation. The wine begins with appealing aromatics – think of tropical flowers. There are flavours of cantaloupe and nectarine. The residual sugar is nicely balanced, giving the wine finish that seems dry but well-rounded. 91.

Fitzpatrick The Mischief Pinot Blanc 2022 ($20.50 for 500 cases). This wine began with a long, cool ferment in stainless steel. The wine was aged five months: 40% in stainless steel and 60% in neutral oak, with lees stirring. This is a complex wine, beginning with aromas of pear, melon and grapefruit. On the palate, there are flavours of Honeycrisp apple mingled with citrus wrapped around a spine of minerality. 91.

Fitzpatrick Big Leap Chardonnay 2021 ($25.50 for 455 cases). This wine is made with 50% estate fruit, 50% South Okanagan fruit. Half the wine was fermented in stainless steel; half in neutral French oak, with monthly lees stirring. Twenty percent was allowed to go through malolactic fermentation. The wine was aged 10 months in French oak (10% new). The wine begins with aromas of vanilla, citrus and ripe apple. On the richly textured palate, there are flavours of pear and marmalade with a delicate touch of oak. 92.

Fitzpatrick Lava Bomb Gamay 2021 ($29.50 for 266 cases). This wine is a single-block selection of fruit from a Summerland vineyard, aged in neutral French oak. The wine has aromas of cherry leading to an earthy palate with flavours of red fruits. The texture is silky. 90.

Fitzpatrick Sudden Inversion Meritage 2020 ($29.50 for 530 cases). The grapes for this wine are from the Maverick Vineyard south of Oliver. The blend is 65% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine was aged 14 months in French oak (16% new). The aromas of cassis jump from the bottle as soon as it is opened, leading to intense aromas and flavours of cassis, blueberry and cherry. 92.

Stag’s Hollow adds new vineyard

Photo: Winemaker Keira LeFranc

Stag’s Hollow Winery now has three vineyards in the Okanagan Falls sub-appellation, following the acquisition of a recently established vineyard across the road from its 18-acre (15 acres planted) Shuttleworth Creek Vineyard. So far, no details have been released on the size of the property. However, the plantings include Chardonnay and Riesling. “We have not had the pleasure of making Riesling here at the winery in over five years,” writes Erica McIntosh, the winery’s sales and marketing coordinator.

The varietals grown in the three vineyards provide Stag’s Hollow with an extensive and interesting portfolio. The estate vineyard, with 7.7 acres planted, provides in winery with three clones of Pinot Noir, Merlot, Tempranillo, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat Ottonel and Vidal, with some of the vines planted in 1987. In May this year, Chardonnay was added to the vineyard. Shuttleworth Creek, which has been planted since 2011, provides the winery with seven clones of Pinot Noir, Gamay, Tempranillo, Dolcetto, Teroldego, Syrah, Orange Muscat, Albariño and Vidal. My hat goes off to winemaker Keira LeFranc for her ability to deal with that many varietals and make them all well. Here are notes on the wines.

Stag’s Hollow Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($26 for 425 cases). The wine begins with aromas of lime leading to zesty flavours of lime and tropical fruits. The finish is very long. 91.

Stag’s Hollow Albariño 2022 ($26 for 460 cases). This Iberian grape variety seems right at home in the Okanagan. Winemaker Keira LeFranc, who had made several vintages of this varietal, says the 2022 is her favourite. The wine was fermented in a combination of concrete, stainless steel and barrels. That and the increasing maturity of Stag’s Hollow’s Shuttleworth Creek Vineyard accounts for some of the complexity in the wine. It begins with seductive aromas of lime and tropical fruits which are echoed on the palate. The acidity is bright, making for a refreshing finish. There is also a spine of minerality that pulls it all together. This is also my favourite Albariño from this winery. 93.

Stag’s Hollow Renaissance Chardonnay 2021 ($35 for 400 six-pack cases, 36 magnums). This is the winery’s first Chardonnay in 11 years. Clearly, they will not wait that long for the next one. This is a complex wine, with aromas of peach and almond leading to buttery flavours of ripe apple mingled with citrus. The texture is creamy and the finish is very long. 92.

Stag’s Hollow Tragically Vidal 2022 ($8 a 250 ml can). The Vidal grape is one of the few French hybrid varietals still grown in the Okanagan after the 1988 pullout. That is why the previous owners of the winery dubbed the wine Tragically Vidal. Perhaps putting it a can, not a bottle, is another demotion … or just a clever commercial move. It is a pleasant wine with aromas of melon that lead to flavours of honeydew melon, gooseberry and grapefruit. The residual sugar is nicely balanced with the acidity. The cans are in a four-pack. Total production was 200 flats of 24. 89.

Stag’s Hollow Moscato Frizzante 2022 ($8 a 250 ml can). The cans are in a four-pack. Total production was 200 flats of 24. The wine is light (10.5% alcohol), with floral and spicy aromas leading for flavours of citrus and stone fruit. The bubbles are not apparent in the glass but are there on the palate. The wine is crisp and refreshing, with a finish balanced to dryness. 89.

Stag’s Hollow Dolcetto Rosato 2022 ($25 for 179 cases). This thespian wine presents with what the winery calls an “electric magenta” colour. The aromas are equally dramatic: cherry and plum mingled with cranberry. The palate is tangy and spicy with flavours of cherry, pomegranate and sour cherries. 90.

Stag’s Hollow Dolcetto 2020 ($26 for 237 cases). Dark in colour, the wine was fermented both in concrete and in stainless steel. It begins with earthy but fruity aromas … plum mingled with licorice. It is rich on the palate, with flavours of plum, blueberry, blackberry and licorice. 91.

Six wines from Chronos

 

Photo: Chronos winemaker Lynzee Schatz (courtesy of Time winery)

The Chronos brand has emerged as a premium tier of wines at the Time winery in Penticton. Time was established in a former movie theatre in downtown Penticton by the late Harry McWatters. The new owners who took over after his death in 2019 have extended the portfolio under the able hand of winemaker Lynzee Schatz.

As well, the Time brand inspired not just Chronos but also the name for the winery’s restaurant, which is OROLO. Christa-Lee McWatters, the winery general manager, explains that “OROLO is named for ‘horology’ – the study of time.” The OROLO restaurant is adjacent to the Chronos tasting room. “Here, visitors move seamlessly from tasting to dining, or dining to tasting,” Christa-Lee writes.

Here are notes on six wines that you can taste.

Chronos Pinot Gris 2022 ($24.95 for 335 cases). The wine was fermented cool and stayed on the lees for three months, resulting in a crisp and fresh wine with generous texture. The wine has aromas of pear and citrus, leading for flavours of pear, peach and nectarine. The finish lingers. 91.

Chronos Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($29.99). The wine begins with aromas of herbs mingled with citrus. On the palate, there are flavours of lime and passion fruit. 90.

Chronos Rosé 2022 ($25.99). This rosé is made with Syrah. Limited skin contact produced a delicate pink hue. While the aromas are a bit elusive, the wine is packed with flavour: pink grapefruit, red plum and watermelon. 91.

Chronos Merlot 2020 ($29.99 for 700 cases). Aged in barrel (20% new), this wine is immediately appealing with aromas of cassis, blackberry and plum. On the palate, it delivers flavours of blackberry, dark cherry and black currant. The wine’s firm backbone suggests this wine should be decanted for immediate consumption or cellared several years. 91.

Chronos Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($39.99 for 476 cases). This wine was aged in French and American oak barrels (20% new). Dark in colour, it begins with aromas of dark cherry and black currant mingled with hints of oak. On the palate, there are flavours of black cherry, black currant, dark chocolate and cedar. The finish is persistent. 92.

Chronos Syrah 2020 ($39.99 for 403 cases). Here is another wine that exhibits the superb balance that the 2020 vintage produced in red wines. The wine, which was aged in both French and American oak barrels, begins with aromas of plum, dark cherry and spice. Rich on the palate, the wine delivers flavours of plum and blueberry with a hint of white pepper and cloves on the finish. 92.

Chain Reaction Winery: small but good

Photo: Joel Chamaschuk, co-owner of Chain Reaction

Chain Reaction Winery, which opened in 2021 on a tiny Naramata Road property, is making wines that wines that punch above their weight. Perhaps one should not be surprised, given the background of the owners. Here is an excerpt from my 2020 book, The Okanagan Wine Tour Guide.

Joel and Linda Chamaschuk, who own Chain Reaction, have come a long way in appreciating wine since they had a U-Brew make the wine for their wedding. “We didn’t know anything about wine,” Linda confesses. “We just knew if we liked it or if we didn’t.” Since 2017, when bought a property on Naramata Road, Joel has taken the viticulture course at Okanagan College and worked in the cellar at Moraine Winery with winemaker Dwight Sick. Both have completed level two in the Wine & Spirits Education Trust program, a sommelier-oriented course that has enrich their wine knowledge enormously.

The decision to commit to a winery developed gradually as Joel and Linda pursued successful business careers. Joel, who was born in New Westminster in 1967, has a science degree from Simon Fraser University. He has, at various times, been a business consultant, an intellectual technology manager and a photographer. Linda, who was born in Powell River in 1968, continues to work as a business analyst to a health care agency. Since 1989, she has been a business analyst and manager of technology projects in both the private sector and the public sector. Neither grew up in families with much interest in wine. Their interest began in 1992 when they started camping in the Okanagan each summer and began visiting wineries. “I could not imagine a better job than to be the guy behind the tasting bar,” Joel says. “Getting into the wine business has been in the back of our minds for decades. It always seemed a big dream because we did not have any formal training in that area.”

Sometimes the desire for a winery was just dormant. Joel would bring it up from time to time with friends, one who advised him to Similkameen Valley, whose potential for growing wine was then overshadowed by the Okanagan. Joel and Linda ended up on the Naramata Bench. They had become familiar its concentration of wineries through volunteer or competing in Penticton’s renowned IRONMAN Canada triathlon. Both are avid cyclists, a pursuit that inspired the name for their winery. Beginning in 2018, they converted a former apple orchard to vines. “We moved here to be involved in the wine industry,” Joel says. “Even if apples were lucrative, we would have pulled them out in favour of vines. The largest block is Pinot Noir, followed by Riesling, Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc. Chain Reaction’s first modest vintage in 2019 was made with purchased Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Gris. Joel and Linda plan to open a tasting room in 2021 in their 2,000-square-foot winery, designed by Landform Architecture of Penticton. “We are targeting between 2,000 and 3,000 cases at full production,” Linda says. “We hope to stay small and focus on quality (not to mention enjoying a great quality of life which is what brought us to the Okanagan).”

Here are notes on the wines. Some of the prices are wholesale.

Chain Reaction Carpe Diem Gewürztraminer 2022 ($23 for 140 cases). Fermented cool and aged in stainless steel, this wine begins with aromas of spice and lychee. The palate delivers tropical fruit flavours with a hint of residual sugar contributing to a rich texture. 90.

Chain Reaction Blanc de Noir 2022 ($24 for 182 cases). This is a white Pinot Noir. The grapes were pressed gently to avoid colour and astringency. The juice was fermented for four weeks at low temperatures in stainless steel, with 25% of the wine being aged four months in new French oak. The wine begins with aromas of apple and white peach. The palate is crisp, with flavours of apple, stone fruits and just a hint of oak on the finish. 91.

Chain Reaction Tandem White Blend 2022 ($18.39 for 196 cases). This is 54% Pinot Gris, 35% Gewürztraminer and 11% Riesling, blended just before bottling. The wines were fermented in stainless steel and aged two months on the lees in stainless steel. The wine begins with aromas of pear with a hint of lychee. The palate is packed with fruit flavours: pear and nectarine. The finish persists. 91.

Chain Reaction Tailwind Pinot Gris 2022 ($18.39 for 385 cases). The fruit for this wine is 75% from a Kaleden vineyard and 25% from the estate McMillan Vineyard. The grapes from the latter were fermented to dryness while a touch of residual sugar was left in the Kaleden lot. Fermentation was long and cool in stainless steel, with two months aging on the lees before blending and bottling. The wine begins with aromas of honeydew melon leading to flavours of pear, nectarine and apple. 91.

Chain Reaction True Colours Pinot Noir Rosé 2022 ($20 for 85 cases). This is a Pinot Noir rosé fermented in stainless steel. The hue is delicate pink. The wine has aromas and flavours of strawberry and raspberry. The wine has a juicy texture. 91.

Chain Reaction Estate Pinot Noir 2021 ($24 for 37 cases). This is a bold Pinot Noir, with aromas and flavours of cherry and plum, with a touch of spice. The palate is richly textured and the finish is long and satisfying. 92.

Fort Berens increases production in vintage 2022

Photo: Fort Berens proprietors Heleen Pannekoek and Rolf de Bruin

When they moved from Holland in 2008, Heleen Pannekoek and Rolf de Bruin took a big chance when they established Fort Berens Estate Winery at Lillooet rather than in established winegrowing regions of British Columbia. It is clearly working out, judging by the consistent run of awards that the winery racks up. At the recent British Columbia Lieutenant Governor’s Wine Awards, the Fort Berens 2020 Cabernet Franc Reserve was one of 13 wines to win a platinum medal, the top award in that competition. “We are thrilled [with] this significant award as Cabernet Franc is one of our signature varietals,” Rolf writes. “This reserve wine is 100% estate grown from our mature Dry Creek Vineyard, and it beautifully showcases our unique Lillooet terroir.”

The 2020 vintage in Lillooet (as elsewhere in British Columbia) was of very good quality but limited in quantity. For some reason, the vines produced small bunches with smaller berries. The result was wines with more intense flavours – but with yields 20% to 40% lower than expected. Wines from the 2020 vintage are already in short supply. The winery’s current releases also include six wines from the 2022 vintage. That was a more bounteous vintage; and Fort Berens was also able to increase its production because the winery’s second estate vineyard came into production. “With our Red Rock Vineyard coming into production, we were able to harvest the highest crop ever from our estate vineyards,” Rolf writes. “Our 2022 vintage whites are elegant with beautiful, fresh acidity, and with lovely aromatics.”

Here are notes on the wines.

Fort Berens Pinot Gris 2022 ($23.49 for 1,534 cases). The grapes, after being crushed, were left on the skins for four hours. The wine was fermented at 11◦ C and then aged four months on the lees. The result is a wine with great aromatics and fruitiness. There are aromas of citrus and flavours of pear, quince and stone fruit. 91.

Fort Berens Grüner Veltliner 2022 Small Lot ($25.99 for 276 cases). Thirty per cent of the juice was fermented in neutral oak barrels and the rest was fermented cold in stainless steel, preserving the aromatics. The wine begins with aromas of citrus leading to subtle herbals notes mingled with citrus flavours. The finish is crisp, with a suggestion of white pepper. 90.

Fort Berens Riesling 2022 ($22.99 for 1,817 cases). The fruit for this wine is 73% from estate vineyards and 27% from Naramata Bench vineyards. The grapes were given 12 hours of skin contact after crushing and then the wine was fermented slowly at cool temperatures. Fermentation was stopped with some residual sugar remaining, balancing the bright acidity. The wine begins with aromas of grapefruit and apple, echoed on the palate. The balance is perfect: the wine has a fleshy texture but a lingering, almost dry, finish. 91.

Fort Berens Dry Riesling 2022 Small Lot ($25.99 for 368 cases). A small portion of the fruit was fermented in neutral oak barrels; the major portion, after 12 hours of skin contact, was fermented cool in stainless steel. The wine spent four months on the lees to add texture. The wine begins with aromas of lemon. On the palate, lemon and lime mingle with minerality. This is a tightly wound wine that should be cellared a few years so it can display all the complexity. 92.

Fort Berens Chardonnay 2022 ($24.99 for 1,132 cases). The majority of fruit for this wine is from Lillooet vineyards, with 45% from a Summerland vineyard. About 30% of the wine fermented with natural yeast in neutral oak barrels and aged four months in barrel. Some 70% was fermented cold in stainless steel. The result is a crisp, fruit forward Chardonnay with aromas and flavours of apple, melon and stone fruit. 91.

Fort Berens Rosé 2022 ($22.99 for 1,600 cases). The blend is 70% Pinot Noir, 16% Merlot and 14% Cabernets. The grapes were destemmed and allowed up to 12 hours of skin contact. Once the desired colour was achieved, the grapes were pressed and the juice underwent a long, cold ferment. The wine presents with a delicate pink hue. It has aromas and flavours of strawberry, raspberry and watermelon. The texture is juicy but the finish is dry. 91.

Fort Berens Cabernet Franc Reserve 2020 ($44.99 for 212 cases). This wine was made from estate-grown fruit and was aged 15 months in French oak barrels (50% new). This is an intense wine, beginning with aromas of blackberries and spice. It is rich on the palate, with flavours of dark cherry, blackberry and spice. Decanting helped unlock the complexity and length of this wine. 93.

Fort Berens Meritage Reserve 2020 ($41.99 for 211 cases). This is 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc, with a regime of cold soaking, pump-overs and extended maceration to extract colour and flavour. The wine begins with bold aromas of cherry and plum, leading to flavours plum, black currant, dark chocolate and black licorice. 93.

Fort Berens Red Gold 2020 ($54.99 for 66 cases). This wine was a selection of the best three barrels in the cellar. The blend is 67% Cabernet Franc and 33% Merlot. The components were aged separately in new French oak barrels. It is a big, bold wine, packed with flavour and structured to age. It begins with aromas of cassis, cherry and blackberry. The palate delivers dark fruits along with notes of blueberry and chocolate. 94.