Photo: Mark Hopley in Hester Creek cellar with Brooke Jesus
Hester Creek Estate Winery is, in my judgement, one of the leading wineries in the Okanagan. The quartet of current releases simply confirms that for me.
Why is Hester Creek so good? Wine quality always begins in the vineyard. The Hester Creek site was established in 1968 by Joe Busnardo, an immigrant from Italy with a good eye for property. The vineyard is on the west side of the valley, not far south of Oliver, on a fertile peninsula with a mountain the west. It slopes toward the valley but retains a good elevation from the valley bottom.
Secondly, Joe planted only vinifera grapes at a time when most vineyards still had hybrid grapes. Some of Joe’s original plantings still are producing – or at least were producing prior to the severe freeze in January, 2024. About a third of the vineyard has been, or will be, replanted. Hester Creek made most of its 2024 wines with grapes purchased from growers in Washington State.
The winery was acquired in 2004 by Prince George businessman Curtis Garland. The current quality of Hester Creek wines reflects the owner’s decision to build a new winery, to put in place excellent staff and to give them all the tools they need. Winemaker Mark Hopley’s secrets include Ganimede fermenters, cutting edge Italian technology for making red wines. The technique extracts flavours and aromas that distinguish Hester Creek wines across the range, from budget wines to flagship wines. No other winery in BC has invested in Ganimede fermenters.
Most recently, Hester Creek has expanded its barrel cellar considerably, giving even more tools to Mark Hopley and his assistant winemaker, Brooke Jesus.
Here are notes on four current releases.
Hester Creek Old Vine Brut 2021 ($34.99). This wine is made with Pinot Blanc, a varietal that has proven itself well-suited for making good sparkling wines in the Okanagan. The grapes did primary fermentation in stainless steel. The wine did secondary fermentation in bottle in the traditional method and spent 24 months en tirage. The wine is delightful, with a touch of brioche supporting bright flavours of citrus and apple. 92.
Hester Creek Old Vine Cabernet Franc 2022 ($29.99). This is an exceptional wine from a great vintage in which wineries could hang grapes on the vine well into November. The result: dark reds with intensity. This wine was aged 18 months in oak (75% French, 25% American). It begins with aromas blackberry, black cherry and raspberry mingled with a hint of pepper. The palate delivers a potpourri of fruit flavours, including blueberry, black cherry and blackberry. Long ripe tannins give the wine a lingering finish. 93.
Hester Creek The Judge 2021 ($49.99). This is one of Hester Creek’s two flagship red blends. This is 46% Merlot, 26% Cabernet Franc, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot and 1% Malbec. The wine was aged 24 months in French oak. The wine is remarkably concentrated, with aromas of sage, dark fruits including plum and cherry which are echoed on the palate. The wine needs to be decanted to cox it to open up. My sample improved continuously over four days. 94.
Hester Creek Garland 2021 ($64.99). This is 78% Cabernet Sauvignon,18% Petit Verdot and 4% Malbec. The wine was aged 24 months in French oak. This elegant wine also should be decanted. It begins with aromas of cassis, raspberry, cherry, blueberry and spice. These are echoed on the palate, along with notes of chocolate and vanilla. 95
