Frind surprises with a Foch rosé

Frind winemaker Corrie Krehbiel

One of the few varietals to survive the Okanagan’s 2024 winter and produce grapes was Maréchal Foch, the winter-hardy French hybrid. In the grape pull-out after the 1988 harvest, most growers pulled out Foch, replacing it with various vinifera varietals deemed to make better wines. Only Quails’ Gate Estate Winery (and a few others) retained a significant acreage. Since 1994, Quails’ Gate’s Old Vines Foch has enjoyed a cult following.

Nearby Frind Estate Winery, which opened in 2019, planted a six-acre block of Maréchal Foch in the flat terrain that leads to the lakeside winery. The winery site once was the home of former Premier Bill Bennett. Winery owner Markus Frind bought the historic property in 2017. Recognizing that the low-lying area was an obvious frost pocket, Marcus planted Foch.

The happy result: Corrie Krehbiel, Frind’s winemaker, had a harvest from the flat in the fall of 2024. She made a commendable rosé that is 94% Foch. It is the first rosé from that varietal that I can ever recall tasting. Wines like this may go some way to reviving Maréchal Foch as a varietal worthy of its place again in the vineyards of the Okanagan. To give some perspective on the grape, let me quote from my 1998 book, Chardonnay and Friends, which profiled the 40 major wine varietals then growing in the Okanagan.

“French plant breeder Eugene Kuhlmann (1858-1932) was the creator of this and of several other hybrid varieties, most of which now have been phased out of vineyards in France and North America. The variety is named for a French hero of World War One, Marshall Ferdinand Foch, commander in chief of the Allied armies in 1918. (An apparent admirer of French leaders, Kuhlmann also created another blood-red variety that was named Léon Millot after a prime minister.) Like the other hybridizers of his day, Kuhlmann created new varieties by crossing native American vines with European vines in a search for productive and disease-resistant varieties. Georges Masson, an Ontario wine writer in the 1970s, wrote that Foch “makes a good wine resembling a French Burgundy.” The comparison to Burgundy, which is made with Pinot Noir, may have been inspired by the vaguely similar earthy aromas and smoky note in the finish of a Maréchal Foch wine. Other flavours include plums and spice.

“Foch was among the French hybrids that were imported to Ontario and New York State just after World War Two by wineries and growers searching for hardy, productive and disease resistant varieties that could make better wine than the North American varieties then being grown. (Almost no one then believed that the classic vinifera would survive in eastern North America.) While Foch had already been named in France, most varieties generally arrived bearing only the hybridizer’s number, such as Seibel 9549, and had names assigned to them by the wine industry in the early 1970s. The significant red hybrids besides Foch were De Chaunac, Chelois, Baco Noir, Chancellor and Rougeon. De Chaunac and Chelois largely have been dropped because the wines are light and uninteresting. The others, while less important than they once were, are hanging on or, in the case of Foch, making a comeback. As recently as 1985 Foch had accounted for a quarter of British Columbia’s grape harvest. But most of the vines were pulled out after the 1988 vintage, leaving Foch at less than two per cent of the crop. ‘To my way of thinking, that is just ridiculous,’ said Jeff Martin [the winemaker at Quails’ Gate at the time]. ‘I looked at the records for the hybrids we purchased in the 1980s. The grapes were immature. The problem was not the variety -- it was grape-growing and winemaking.’ In the early 1980s yields of ten to twelve tons an acre were common, three times the yield now demanded of those vines in the Quails’ Gate vineyard. In the 1990s the variety generally is grown more carefully.”

At the time the book was written, at last 10 wineries in British Columbia were releasing wines made with Foch. I w0uld be surprised if more than five have it in their portfolio now. However, the way the varietal handled the 2024 freeze could restore a bit of the varietal’s profile. Most of the wines in the Frind profile are made, and well made, with premium vinifera varietals and that is not likely to change, however successful the Foch rosé is. Here are notes on three current Frind releases.

Frind Rosé 2024 ($22.99). The 94.2% Foch in this wine is supplemented with 3.4% Cabernet Franc, 1.4% Pinot Noir and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon. The grapes were picked deliberately for rosé. The grapes were whole-cluster pressed, fermented cool and aged nine months in stainless steel. The wine presents with a vibrant hue. There are aromas of cherry and raspberry leading to engaging flavours of red plum, strawberry and pomegranate. The finish is long and refreshing. 90.

Frind Premier Cabernet Sauvignon 2023 ($39.99). This wine includes 8% Petit Verdot and 1% Merlot in the blend. The wine was aged 13 months in French and American oak. It is a big, ripe wine from a hot vintage. It has aromas of cassis, dark cherry and plum which are echoed on the palate. The long ripe tannins give this wine good body and a long finish. 91.

Frind The Premier 2023 ($44.99). This is a blend of 68% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Tannat, aged 14 months in French and American oak. It is a bold, dark wine with aromas of plum, black cherry and blueberry. The palate delivers dark fruit flavours with a long finish. 93.

Evolve sparkling wine cellar complements Penticton's Chronos

Photo: Winemaker Lynzee Schatz (courtesy of Evolve Winery)

The spirit of the late Harry McWatters may have been lurking in the ether at this summer’s opening of Evolve Sparking House, a Penticton winery dedicated to making bubbly wine. In his day, no one in the Okanagan was more passionate about sparkling wine than Harry. At Sumac Ridge Estate Winery, one of his former wineries, trials with sparkling wine began in 1985 and led to the release four years later of Steller’s Jay, long one of the most successful traditional method bubblies in B.C. (It is now made by Arterra Wines Canada.) “It is what I drink when I am deciding what to drink for dinner,” Harry quipped on numerous occasions.

Four years before he died in 2019, Harry had launched the Time Winery in downtown Penticton. The winery went into receivership after Harry’s death, to be purchased by Ron and Shelley Mayert. Time has been rebranded as Chronos, while the Evolve brand, created by Harry, has remained in the portfolio and now graces the separate Evolve winery on Lower Bench Road.

The sparkling wine house opened with three award-winning sparkling wines made by, or finished by, Lynzee Schatz, the Okanagan-born winemaker who joined Time in late 2019. She took over from Harry’s winemaking team, Nadine Kinvig and Graham Pierce, who would have laid down the foundation for two of these wines. Lynzee trained as a winemaker in Australia and spent five years with Chandon, a French-owned sparkling wine producer in the Yarra Valley there. “Sparkling wine has been my passion since I entered the wine industry over 20 years ago,” she is quoted in a recent publicity release from Evolve.

Photo: Tasting room at Evolve Sparkling House. Here are notes on the current Evolve and Chronos wines.

Evolve Brut Premiere 2020 ($39.99 for 1,000 cases). This is a blend of 67% Chardonnay and 33% Pinot Noir. The wine was three years en tirage. In the glass, the attack is crisp and fresh, with aromas and flavours of brioche and citrus. 91.

Evolve Brut Rosé 2018 ($49.99 for 500 cases). This is a blend of 50% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, 9% Pinot Blanc and 1% Syrah. The wine was en tirage for five years. This delicious wine presents with a delicate rose petal hue and an active mousse. There are aromas and flavours of wild strawberry. The finish is crisp and refreshing.

Evolve Brut Nature 2018 ($49.99 for 500 cases). The blend is 50% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir and 10% Pinot Blanc. The wine was en tirage for five years. Light gold in hue, the wine presents with an active mousse. It has aromas and flavours of brioche mingled with notes of baked apple and citrus. 92.

Evolve Rosé 2023 ($29.99 for 280 cases). This is made with Syrah from an Osoyoos vineyard. In the glass, it is salmon pink, with aromas and flavours of strawberry. The finish is crisp and dry. 88.

b>Evolve Momento 2021 ($24.99 for 1,300 cases). This cheerful red is a blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Syrah. Each varietal was aged separately for 18 months. The wine is ruby in colour and has a juicy texture. It has aromas and flavours of cherry, blackberry and plum. 90.

Evolve Pinot Noir 2022 ($49.99 for 200 cases). This is made with Naramata fruit fermented in stainless steel and aged 12 months in French oak (20% new). Aromas of spice and cherry are echoed on the silky palate. 88.

Evolve Grenache 2022 (Wine club only; 475 cases). This rare (for the Okanagan) varietal was aged 15 months in French oak (none new). The wine presents in the glass with a brilliant ruby hue, with aromas of cherry and red licorice that are echoed on the palate. 91.

Chronos Malbec 2020 ($N/A for 163 cases). The wine presents with aromas of cassis and blueberry. Full-bodied, it has flavours of dark fruits mingled with spice and cedar. 91.

Chronos Malbec 2022 ($N/A 163 cases; wine club only). Bold and rich, the wine presents with aromas of spice and dark fruits leading to concentrated flavours of blueberry and blackberry with a hint of licorice. 93.

Chronos Fourth Dimension 2021 ($44.99 for 350 cases). This is a blend of 65% Syrah, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot and 7% Cabernet Franc. Each varietal was fermented separately before blending. The wine was aged 18 months in American and French oak (20% new). Aromas of black cherry, pepper and tobacco lead to flavours of raspberry and cherry mingled with spice. 92

Chronos Ouroboros 2020 (25 cases; wine club only). This is a blend of 56% Merlot and 44% Syrah, co-fermented in French oak barrels. It is a dark, dense and brooding wine with aromas of blackberry and plum. Those are echoed on the palate, mingled with spice and dark fruits. 92.

Chronos Cabernet Franc 2021 ($39.99 for 1,140 cases). This wine was made with fruit from Osoyoos vineyards. It was fermented in open-top tanks with gentle daily pump-overs. The wine was aged 18 months in French oak barrels (20% new). The wine is bold and ripe, reflecting a hot vintage. It has aromas and flavours of blackberry, raspberry, plum, dark cherry with a long finish. 92.

Chronos Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($34.99 for 1,140 cases). The dark colour and the rich texture of this wine reflect the long ferment and daily pump-overs. The wine was aged 18 months in American and French oak (20% new). It begins with aromas of cassis, spice and dark fruits. These are echoed on the palate, mingled with flavours of plum, black olive and chocolate. 92.

Chronos Petit Verdot 2021 (Wine club only for 135 cases). Made with fruit from an Osoyoos vineyard, the wine was fermented in open-top fermented with daily pump-overs. It was then aged 18 months in American and French oak barrels. Dark in colour, this is a concentrated wine with aromas of blackberry and dark cherry. On the palate, there are flavours of dark cherry, plum, and black olives, with minerality on the lingering finish. 93.

Moon Curser's new owners inherited excellent wines

Photo: Left to right: Harjit, Gurjit and Sukhi Dhaliwal (Photo courtesy Moon Curser Vineyards)

While some Okanagan wineries advertise when they are for sale, it seems like the best just get it done quietly. Case in point: Moon Curser Vineyards in Osoyoos. The winery was established in 2004 by Beata and Chris Tolley. They had moved from corporate careers in Calgary, preparing themselves for winegrowing by first getting postgraduate degrees from Lincoln University, New Zealand’s premier wine school.

The winery opened in 2006 as Twisted Tree Vineyards & Winery. A few years later, the Tolleys decided there was no drama in that name and rechristened the property as Moon Curser Vineyards. The name was inspired by the legends of gold being smuggled from mines operating in the Okanagan in the 19th century to smelters in the United States. On moonlit nights, the smugglers risked being caught by border authorities, which is why they supposedly cursed at the moon.

The Tolleys followed up with story-telling labels that were often on the bizarre side but certainly stood out on wine store shelves. What really made the rebranding succeed was the quality and the originality of the wines. The Tolleys often chose to plant varietals that were exclusive, or nearly so, to their vineyards. Examples included Tannat, an old French variety at home in Uruguay; Carménère, another old French red now at home in Chile; Touriga Nacional, a Portuguese red; and Arneis, a lovely Italian white grape. The result is that Moon Curser wines have been as individual as the labels.

In 2023, Chris sold one of Moon Curser’s vineyards to Gurjit Dhaliwal, his wife Sukhi and his brother, Harjit. The brothers have been Okanagan grapegrowers since 2007 while Sukhi became a nurse. In 2023, they purchased a vineyard from Moon Curser – and discovered that Chris and Beata, both nearing 60, were ready to retire. The Dhaliwals had been thinking of opening a winery and jumped at Moon Curser, an established producer with award-winning wines.

The ownership change was announced in December 2024, in spite of a reduced production from Moon Curser’s vineyards due to the devastating freeze in January that year. Vineyards around Osoyoos Lake suffered less than vineyards elsewhere in the Okanagan. While Tannat did not survive the freeze and will not be replanted, most of the other varietals made it. "Chris and I are incredibly proud of what we have accomplished as Smugglers-in-Chief over the past 20-years and are excited to pass the torch to Sukhi, Gurjit and Harjit, who share our passion for farming and family," Beata Tolley when the ownership change was announced.

Christian Scagnetti has continued as the winemaker, assuring continuity of style. The recent releases include a number of reds from the outstanding 2022 vintage. These are among the finest Moon Curser wines I have tasted. Here are my notes.

Moon Curser Eclipse Traditional Method 2022 ($34.99 for 168 cases). This sparkling wine is a blend of 55% Roussanne and 45% Marsanne. The grapes were fermented cool in stainless steel and the wine then was 14 months en tirage before being disgorged. The wine has a golden hue and a fine mousse. Brioche and tropical fruits mingle in the aroma and on the palate. A very elegant wine. 93.

Moon Curser Broad Daylight VQA 2024 ($25.99 for 332 cases). This is a delicious blend of 69% Pinot Gris, 14% Muscat Blanc, 11% Viognier and 6% Arneis. The grapes were fermented cool in stainless steel. The wine begins with aromas of cantaloupe, kiwi, apple and apricot. There is a rich play of fruits on the palate: peach, nectarine, mingled with grapefruit. The finish persists. 93.

Moon Curser Riesling Confiscated 2024 ($25.99 for 690 cases. The fruit is from a vineyard at Lake Chelan in Washington. The grapes were transported to the Moon Curser winey in Osoyoos, where whole grapes were crushed and fermented cool in stainless steel. The wine has aromas and flavours of lemon and peach. A touch of residual sugar gives the wine a fullness on the palate. 88.

Moon Curser Roussanne Marsanne 2024 VQA ($28.99 for 201 cases). This is 69% Roussanne and 31% Marsanne. The fruit was fermented cool in stainless steel, with a portion fermented warm in barrel. A quarter of the wine was aged four months in French oak (24% new). This is a savoury and complex wine, with aromas and flavours of stone fruits. 93.

Moon Curser Confiscated Rosé 2024 ($26.99 for 473 cases). The fruit is Pinot Noir from a vineyard near Lake Chelan in Washington, with cool fermentation in stainless steel in the winery at Osoyoos. It presents with an inviting pink hue in the glass. It has aromas and flavours of strawberry and raspberry. The finish is juicy. 90.

Moon Curser Heist Rosé 2023 ($26.99 for 360 cases). This is a blend of 54% Syrah, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 1% Malbec. The grapes, which were co-fermented, had just two hours of skin contact – just enough to give the wine a dark hue. The wine has aromas and flavours of red plum and strawberry, with a mouth-filling texture. 90.

Moon Curser Malbec 2022 ($38.99 for 1,074 cases). This wine was fermented warm in stainless steel, with gentle pump-overs three time a day. Then it was aged 12 months in French oak (27% new). It begins with aromas of blueberry, dark cherry and even a hint of licorice. On the palate, there are flavours of cherry, plum and pepper. 92

Moon Curser Dead of Night 2022 ($46.99 for 661 cases). Moon Curser’s flagship red wine, this is a blend of 50% Tannat and 50% Syrah. This has always been a wine with power – even more so in a great vintage like 2022. Partially co-fermented in stainless steel, the wine was aged 12 months in French and Hungarian oak (35% new). Dark in colour, the wine begins with aromas of dark fruits and coffee. The palate delivers flavours of dark cherry, black currant and plum mingled with oak. This wine will benefit from decanting and will age far into the future. 94.

Moon Curser Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($46.99 for 466 cases). After a warm fermentation in stainless steel, the wine was aged 24 months in French oak (32% new). Dark in colour and full-bodied, the wine begins with aromas of dark fruits, black licorice and cigar box. The palate delivers flavours of black currant, plum, dark cherry and chocolate. The long ripe tannins signal that this wine will age well. 94.

Moon Curser Border Vines 2022 ($34.99 for 1,547 cases). This is a blend of 35% Petit Verdot, 33% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon and 16% Cabernet Franc. Fermented in stainless steel, the wine was aged 12 months in French oak (25% new). The wine begins with spicy aromas of cherry and licorice, leading to a rich palate with flavours of dark fruits mingled with chocolate. 92.

Moon Curser Carménère 2022($46.99 for 519 cases). This wine was aged 12 months in French oak (20% new). It begins with aromas of plum and cranberry mingled with notes of black pepper. The medium-bodied palate echoes the pepper, along with flavours of dark cherry. The finish persists. 94.

Moon Curser Tempranillo 2022 ($38.99 for 710 cases). This is a Spanish red varietal. The grapes were fermented in stainless steel and aged 12 months in American oak (21% new). The wine begins with aromas of raspberry and blueberry. It has a fleshy texture with flavours of plum, cherry and fig. The finish is long. 93.

Moon Curser Syrah 2022 ($34.99 for 1,461 cases). The grapes were fermented in stainless steel and aged 12 months in French and Hungarian oak (20% new). Bold and satisfying, the wine begins with aromas of dark fruits mingled with a hint of pepper. On the palate, the wine delivers flavours of dark cherry, blackberry and plum mingled with hints of tobacco and pepper. 92.

Moon Curser Touriga Nacional 2022 ($46.99 for 393 cases). This is a Portuguese varietal. In the Okanagan, Moon Curser is believed to be the only producer. The grapes were fermented in stainless steel and the wine was aged 12 months in French oak (25% new). Dark in colour, the wine has intriguing aromas of cherry and plum mingled with blueberry and tobacco. All that is echoed on the savoury palate, along with notes of black olive and a suggestion of pepper. The finish is long. 94.

Moon Curser Contraband Syrah 2021 – The Hill ($46.99 for 242 cases). This wine was aged 24 months in French and Hungarian oak barrels (35% new). The wine is dark, with aromas blueberry, blackberry and licorice. The palate is rich and deep, with flavours of black cherry, plum, spice and mocha, leading to a persistent finish. 93.