Syrah specialist Rust Winery surprises with a Gamay

Photo: Rust Winery with deliberately corroded exterior

The current releases from Rust Wine Co. features the usual glorious selection of Syrahs; but there is also one unexpected wine – a 2022 Gamay. The wine recalls a Beaujolais Nouveau, but made with more finesse than most Nouveau wines, which often are simple, grapey wines. They are released in late November every year as six- to eight-week-old juveniles and are meant to be consumed by the following Easter. Like a Beaujolais Nouveau, the Rust wine is made with Gamay grapes, with at least partial whole berry fermentation. That is a technique meant to accentuate the fruity aromas and flavours. Unlike Beaujolais, the Rust wine was aged four months in neutral oak. On release, this is a more mature wine that can be cellared into the summer. It will still have the youthful characteristics of a Nouveau but with a little more complexity.

Rust is a sister winery to Mt. Boucherie Estate Winery, with access to some of the same vineyards. However, Rust winemaker Ryan de Witte has been given the latitude to develop a portfolio of wines

quite distinctive from Mt. Boucherie. The four different Syrahs each vintage alone are a good reason for joining the wine club. The winery’s technical sheets do not disclose the volumes of each wine but I suspect the quantities are limited. The labels also are distinctive. The winery, which is just off the highway and midway between Oliver and Osoyoos, is clad in steel deliberately made to develop a bloom of rust. The wine labels all mirror the colours of rust. Here are notes on the wines.

Rust Riesling 2022 ($25). The fruit is Clone 21-B Riesling from a 1990 planting in the Lost Horn Vineyard near Okanagan Falls. The wine was fermented in stainless steel and spent five months on the lees. The alcohol is a moderate 10.5%. The 25 grams of residual sugar are well balanced with 9.8 grams of acidity. There are aromas and flavours of lime and green apple, with a lingering finish. 92.

Rust Gewürztraminer 2022 ($25). Made with fruit from vines planted in 1973, this is an intense and serious Gewürztraminer in the style of good Alsace Goo. The juice was on the skins for four days and was fermented in stainless steel. There is ginger and lychee on the nose and on the palate. The texture is rich and the finish is dry. 91.

Rust Chardonnay 2021 ($35). The fruit for this wine is from the Lost Horn Vineyard in the Okanagan Falls sub-appellation. The wine was fermented with indigenous yeast in barrel and was aged 10 months in French and European oak (40% new). The wine begins with aromas of apple and citrus leading for flavours of peach and apple. The toasty oak notes are very subtle. 90.

Rust Gamay 2022 ($30). The fruit is from the Lazy River Vineyard in the Similkameen, from a 1996 planting. Aromas of red cherry and plum jump from the glass. On the palate, the wine is soft and fruity, with bright red cherry and pomegranate flavours. The late Harry McWatters described wines like this as “guzzable.” A light chilling lifts the fruit. 91.

Rust South Rock Vineyard Syrah 2020 ($44). The fruit is from a 2002 planting of Clone 877 in what is now the Golden Mile Bench sub-appellation. The wine was fermented with 25% whole clusters and was aged 18 months in French and Hungarian oak (33% new). It is a rich and satisfying wine, with aromas of plum, dark cherry and pepper. There is more pepper on the palate along with flavours of plum mingled with deli meats. 93.

Rust Syrah Lost Horn Vineyard 2020 ($44). The fruit is from a 2016 planting of Clone 877. The wine was fermented with 25% whole clusters and was aged 18 months in French and Hungarian oak (33% new). This is a brooding, earthy wine that needs decanting to open up fully. There are aromas of dark fruits leading to flavours of fig, dark cherry, leather and a hint of pepper. 91.

Rust Lazy River Vineyard Syrah 2020 ($44). The fruit is from a 1999 planting (Clone 877) in a vineyard in the Similkameen Valley. The wine was fermented with 25% whole clusters and was aged 18 months in French and Hungarian oak (33% new). This is a bold, ripe wine with aromas and flavours of fig, pepper, black olives and deli meats. 92.

Rust Ferreira Vineyard Syrah 2020 ($44). The fruit is from a 2002 planting (Clone 877) in the Ferreira Vineyard just outside of Oliver. The wine was fermented with 25% whole clusters and was aged 18 months in French and Hungarian oak (33% new). The wine begins with aromas of spice and dark berry fruit. On the palate, flavours of dark cherry and plum mingle with pepper. 92.

Rust South Rock Vineyard Zinfandel 2020 ($44). The fruit is from a 2002 planting on what is now the Golden Mile sub-appellation. The wine was aged 18 months in French and American oak (40% new). There are very few Zinfandels grown in British Columbia. This wine holds its own against top Zins from California. It begins with aromas of blueberries and blackberries. On the palate, there are flavours of blueberry, blackberry, cherry, plum and spice. 93.

Rust South Rock Vineyard Solus 2020 ($88.88). This is a blend of 38% Merlot, 32% Zinfandel, 29% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Gewürztraminer. The wine was aged 18 months in French and American oak (61% new). The production technique for this wine was usual. The Gewürztraminer in the blend was the fermentation starter. Each of the other varietals were added when they were harvested, in what the winery calls a “rolling co-fermentation.” The objective was to retain the expression of a single vineyard wine; the fruit is all from the South Rock Vineyard. This is a bold and generous wine, with aromas of dark cherry, plum and spice. On the palate, there are flavours of dark cherry, blackberry, black currant, chocolate and leather. Long, ripe tannins give the wine a polished texture with a long finish. 94.