Blue Mountain releases single vineyard Chardonnays

Photo: Blue Mountain winemaker Matt Mavety

In 2017 Blue Mountain Vineyard & Cellars began making premium Pinot Noirs from selected blocks in its vineyard. After five decades of wine growing, the proprietors of the winery had come to identify exceptional sites within its large vineyard. Now from the 2020 vintage, Blue Mountain has released two Chardonnays from vineyard blocks also judged to produce exceptional wines. “With the single vineyard bottlings, we are trying to put in bottle a wine that expresses the site itself, not the hand of the winemaking,” Blue Mountain winemaker Matt Mavety told me in 2019, when the Pinot Noirs were released. “We have been working over the last 10 vintages to remove some of our input or our stamp on the wines, to allow more of the site to show through. Not that at any time we were heavy handed but there was room for refinement.” I expect those comments would also apply to the two Chardonnay blocks.

Identifying special vineyard blocks reflects the exacting viticulture practised by the Mavety family. “Over the last 13 years we have made changes in our viticulture and cellar management practices, striving to produce high quality wine that reflect the site in which the grapes are grown,” the winery writes. “2023 marks 52 years of farming on our estate and 32 years of making wine. The strong focus on viticulture across the site allows for an increased representation of individual terroir when the grapes reach the winery. A deliberate refinement of the winemaking process has allowed Blue Mountain to more clearly capture the identity of each of the vineyard blocks.”

Blossom Slope, as one of the Chardonnays is labeled, comes from the vineyard’s Block 17. “A westerly exposure for Block 17 creates a warm site for the 30-year-old vines, the basis for Blossom Slope,” the winery writes. The other Chardonnay is labelled Alluvium Reflection and comes from Block 32. “Planted in 1990, Block 32 is fondly referred to as ‘The Fan’,” the winery writes. “The vines are westerly facing, catching the later morning and afternoon sun … The surrounding rock mass plays a role in heat retention at night. The mineral deposit and mainly gravel soil add to the strength and ease of Alluvium Reflection.”

Here are notes on these exceptional wines.

Blue Mountain Blossom Slope Chardonnay 2020 ($50). The grapes were fermented with yeasts native to the estate. Fermentation was in new to three-year-old French oak barrels; the wine was also aged in those barrels for 18 months. The wine begins with aromas of citrus which continues to the palate to mingle with notes of spice. Fresh acidity produces a lively and crisp finish. 97.

Blue Mountain Alluvium Reflection Chardonnay 2020 ($50). The grapes were fermented with yeasts native to the estate. Fermentation was in new to three-year-old French oak barrels; the wine was also aged in those barrels for 18 months. Light gold in hue, the wine begins with aromas of citrus mingle with herbal notes. The creamy palate delivers flavours of stone fruits. The finish is quite persistent. There is something cerebral to the personality of this sophisticated wine whose flavours stay on the palate for many minutes. 100.