1 Mill Road adds Washington wine to its portfolio

Photo: Katie Truscott and Ben Bryant

Along with many other Okanagan wine producers, Ben Bryant and Katie Truscott of 1 Mill Road Winery harvested no fruit from their Naramata vineyards in 2024 because the freezing temperatures early that winter. None of their vines were killed but none produced grapes. The vines were pruned hard and allowed to recover. This year, Ben and Katie expect a reasonable crop, supplemented with grapes from any premium blocks they can contract elsewhere in the Okanagan. The focus remains Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

1 Mill Road, based in Naramata, was launched exclusively with Pinot Noir by the original owners, David and Cynthia Enns. Ben, an Australian-trained winemaker, and Katie, an expert wine marketer, took over the business in the summer of 2022. They began expanding the portfolio with Chardonnay grapes from a Naramata Bench grower, and with a Pinot Noir rosé. The wines are of exquisite quality. The winery’s 2023 Chardonnay was recently awarded 95 points in the prestigious Decanter wine competition.

Ben and Katie managed the setback of no grapes in 2024 like their peers: they sourced grapes in Washington State, and have just released the first wine, a 2024 Grenache rosé. Later this year, or early next year, they will release a red wine from Grenache and a Syrah. “We were very quick to source that fruit last year,” Ben says. He called a viticulturist friend at Chateau Ste Michelle, the big Washington winery that, in a downsizing move, had dropped a number of growers. “I asked, who is one of your best growers that you let go. That was how I got connected with the Andrews family.” They own the Coyote Canyon Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. “They had some fruit that was no longer needed,” Ben adds. “I was very fortunate.”

“We wanted to source from a like-minded grower family,” he continues. “We went to Horse Heaven Hills and a vineyard owned by the Andrews family. They are a multi-generational farming family. Jeff Andrews farms a lot of grapes. They are big suppliers to Chateau Ste Michelle. We decided straight away that is who we wanted to work with. And we wanted to do Grenache and Syrah.”

“From a business perspective, we avoided Pinot Noir and Chardonnay completely,” Ben says. Since 1 Mill Road’s reputation is based on Naramata-grown Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, Ben and Katie chose to keep making those signature varietals exclusively with Okanagan grapes. “There was plenty of Pinot and Chardonnay available [in the United States] and we could easily have gone to Oregon,” Ben says. “We chose deliberately not to. For 1 Mill Road, we want the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir to be from British Columbia. We don’t want to reference point somewhere else for these varietals.”

There is very little Grenache and limited tonnage of Syrah in the Okanagan after the 2024 winter damage. 1 Mill Road’s clientele are likely to welcome these wines from imported fruit. If they do, Ben may continue sourcing these varietals from Washington in future years. “We are not doing it in vintage 2025,” Ben says. He is concerned about the political and tariff uncertainty that could arise with imported fruit this year. “But we will definitely look at continuing with Grenache and Syrah in the future for sure.” Here are notes on current releases.

1 Mill Road Chardonnay 2023 ($48 for 170 cases). The fruit for this barrel-fermented Chardonnay is from vines planted in 1998 in a Naramata vineyard. (One-third of the barrels were new French oak). The wine begins with appealing orchard fruit aromas mingled with a hint of oak. The palate is complex, with flavours of peach, citrus and apple with a hint of almond. The clean, fresh finish is exceptionally long. 95.

1 Mill Road Grenache Rosé 2024 ($38 for 180 cases). The fruit for this wine is from Washington’s Horse Heaven Hills AVA. The juice was fermented cool, primarily in stainless steel with 26% fermented to dryness in neutral French oak barriques, with bi-weekly stirring of the lees for four months. This added texture. The wine begins with a delicate salmon hue, in the manner of Provençal rosés. Dry on the finish, the wine has aromas and flavours of blood orange, watermelon and strawberry. 90.

1 Mill Road Home Block Pinot Noir 2023 ($67 for 200 cases). The vineyard for this fruit was planted in 2013 entirely to clone 115. The grapes were given a four-day cold soak and then were on the skins for 18 days before being pressed to barrel. The wine was aged for nine months in French oak barriques (28% new). A richly textured wine, it has aromas and flavours of cherry, plum and spice. The finish persists. 94.

Township 7's Interlude Series fills in for the Okanagan's lost 2024 vintage

Photo: Winemaker Mary McDermott

Township 7 Vineyards & Winery quickly followed its early spring release of four VQA wines with a late spring release of four 2024 wines made with imported fruit and labelled as the Interlude Series. An unavoidable delay on my part resulted in notes on both releases be presented this summer. The VQA wines are from several of the best recent vintages from the Okanagan: 2021, 2022 and 2023. The January 2024 freeze eliminated that vintage in the Okanagan.

In her notes accompanying the wines, Township 7 winemaker Mary McDermott put the Interlude wines in their context: the freeze in January 2024 forced the winery (and many of its peers) to import grapes for that vintage. “In past years, particularly 2021 and 2023, I noted those vintages were among the most challenging we’d faced,” she wrote. “It turns out I spoke too soon. We entered the 2024 season with optimism following a mild fall and winter. Unfortunately, that hope was quickly dashed by a devastating cold snap in mid-January. Temperatures plummeted from 0◦C on January 10th to -14◦C the next day, then to -23◦C on January 12, ultimately bottoming out at -27◦C on January 13. The result was catastrophic vine death and severe crop loss. Early bud tests revealed no signs of life, and we braced for the worst – preparing to replant nearly everything.”

She continues her narrative: “To our relief, many vines produced cane growth and leaves. In Naramata, most vines survived, but Oliver suffered extensive damage, forcing us to remove entire blocks of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. These will be replanted in 2025.” “Given the crop loss in the South Okanagan, we sourced premium fruit from trusted growers in Washington State and California to meet production needs,” Mary added. “This ensured our business’s sustainability, kept our valued team employed, and allowed us to continue investing in our vineyards – all while providing our cherished customers with the quality wines they expect from Township 7."

While most consumers will find Interlude (and similar wines from other wineries) to be adequate stand-ins, the quality of the VQA wines reminds us what great terroir what great terroir there is in British Columbia in most vintages.

Here are notes on the two releases.

Township 7 Benchmark Series Gewürztraminer 2022 ($29.97 for 198 cases). Here is a serious Gewürztraminer that one might think is from a top producer in Alsace. It begins with aromas of lychee and ginger, leading to complex flavours of lychee, quince and stone fruits. The luscious palate leads to a long, long finish. 92.

Township 7 Benchmark Series Viognier 2023 ($30.97 for 106 cases). Made with South Okanagan fruit, this wine was fermented in neutral French oak barrels. This is a stellar example of the varietal, beginning with aromas of pear and guava with a hint of vanilla. Rich in texture, the wine delivers flavours of mango, guava and pineapple. 92.

Township 7 Provenance Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($33.97 for 383 cases). There is 5% Merlot blended into this elegant wine. The wine begins with aromas of black currant, dark cherry and plum, which is echoed on the palate. The firm tannins suggest the wine should be decanted for early consumption; it will also age superbly. 91.

Township 7 Benchmark Series Reserve 7 2021 ($44.97 for 453 cases). This is a blend of 53.5% Merlot, 35.7% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10.8% Cabernet Franc. It is a big, ripe wine, beginning with aromas of black cherry, black currant and a hint of tobacco. The palate delivers what the aroma promises along with cedar and spice on the finish. 92.

Township 7 Interlude Series Sauvignon Blanc 2024 ($26.97 for 340 cases). The fruit for this wine is from the Bacchus Vineyard in Washington’s Wahluke Slope AVA. The juice was fermented cool, primarily in stainless steel as well as two second-fill French barriques to add texture. This is a zesty wine with aromas and flavours of lime and grapefruit. 90.

Township 7 Interlude Series Pinot Gris 202b>4 ($26.97 for 430 cases). The fruit for this wine came from a vineyard near Chelan in Washington state. The golden hue and rich palate suggests the wine had more skin contact that the technical notes suggest. There are flavours of ripe nectarines. 88.

Township 7 Interlude Series Chardonnay 2024 ($27.97 for 432 cases). The fruit for this wine was sourced from a vineyard in California’s Russian River Valley near Sonoma. The wine is fruit-forward, with aromas and flavours of apple and pear. 90.

Township 7 Interlude Series Rosé 2024 ($29.97 for 328 cases). The fruit for this wine is Pinot Noir from California’s Russian River Valley. The dark hue presents will in the glass but is perhaps unfashionably dark. A juicy wine, it has aromas and flavours of cherry and wild strawberry. 90.

Bordertown's Gill family launches sister winery

Photo: Mohan Gill

The new 2024 releases from Bordertown Cider & Winery in Osoyoos will take consumers by surprise: the three whites coming to market are all VQA wines, meaning they were made with Okanagan fruit, not imported grapes. Most of the vineyards supporting Mohan Gill’s Bordertown are close to Osoyoos Lake. During the January 2024 freeze that devastated most Okanagan vineyards, the lake had not yet frozen over. There was just enough residual warmth in the open water to moderate the temperatures so that the surviving vines were able to produce from fruit in the fall of 2024.

While the production was well below the usual volume, Mohan at least has some VQA wine to sell. Not much, however. The winery released 275 cases of Pinot Gris from 2024, down from 3,584 cases in 2023; 78 cases of Viognier from 2024, down from 265 cases the year before; and 42 cases of Grüner Veltliner from 2024, down from 350 cases the year before. Those numbers imply that Mohan had enough surviving vines that Bordertown’s production should rebound in 2025. So far, this growing season has had a promising start.

Fans of Bordertown this year have the option of new wines from After 93 Vineyards & Estate Winery, a sister producer run by Mohan’s nephew, Sukhvir Gill. On its web page, After 93 explains that the brand has been created to further a legacy: “A legacy which the Gill family began in 1993 when they first moved to Canada. Their odyssey epitomises the progression of three generations … dedicated to the pursuit of growing premium vinifera grapes and crafting extraordinary wines ….” Sukhvir is one of the four third-generation Gill family members growing wines. They farm over 200 acres of vineyards spread throughout the Okanagan from Osoyoos to Peachland and West Kelowna. After 93’s wines will focus of small lot vineyard blocks.

The text elaborates on the owner’s biography: “Sukhvir represents the next generation of the Gill family, bringing innovation and ambition to the family’s long-standing legacy. After earning his degree from the Sauder School of Business in 2020, Sukhvir entered the family business with determination and vision. Having grown up in Osoyoos, BC, he spent his formative years immersed in the world of orchards, vineyards, and winemaking, closely observing and learning from his father, Gurmit, and uncle, Mohan. Deeply inspired by the decades of hard work and dedication that built his family’s success, Sukhvir recognized his purpose in carrying forward and expanding their legacy. With Bordertown Winery already established as a testament to the Gill family’s commitment to excellence, he saw an opportunity to take their business to new heights by reaching broader markets and introducing their wines to a global audience. In 2021, this vision took shape with the creation of After 93—a brand born from innovation, heritage, and a desire to redefine wine experiences for a new generation."

“Sukhvir created After 93 with a singular vision: to elevate the wine experience for customers and ensure every interaction reflects the passion and craftsmanship behind each bottle. Building on the rich legacy of the Gill family and the success of Bordertown Winery, Sukhvir recognized the need to go beyond simply producing exceptional wines. He envisioned a brand that prioritizes the customer journey, from vineyard to glass, ensuring that every sip embodies quality, authenticity, and care.” After 93’s consulting winemaker is Daniel Bontorin, also the long-time consultant for Bordertown.

Here are notes on the wines.

Bordertown Pinot Gris 2024 ($22 for 275 cases). This wine won a gold medal at the recent All-Canadian Wine Championships. The wine, which was aged in stainless steel, has aromas of peach and pear, leading to flavours of citrus, orchard fruits and a hint of pineapple. 91

Bordertown Viognier 2024 ($22 for 78 cases). This wine was made with Osoyoos fruit, with just one ton per acre, reflecting the impact of the frost on production. The result, however, is a wine more luscious and concentrated that usual. It has aromas and flavours of peach, mango, pineapple and quince. 92.

Bordertown Grüner Veltliner 2024 ($22 for 42 cases). This wine was also made with Osoyoos fruit from vines that yielded just one ton an acre. The wine is crisp and fresh, with citrus notes lifted with bright acidity. 90.

Bordertown Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($22 wholesale for 1,199 cases). Made with Osoyoos fruit, the wine was aged between 12 and 18 months in French oak. Aromas of cassis spring from the glass. The palate delivers flavours of black currant, dark cherry and spice. 92.

After 93 Pinot Gris 2023 ($28 for 518 cases). The fruit for this wine is from the Gill family’s vineyard in West Kelowna. The wine has been aged 18 months in stainless steel. It has aromas and flavours of peach and pear with a full texture and a satisfying finish. 91.

After 93 Moscato Frizzante 2023 ($30 for 315 cases). The fruit for this sparkling wine is from the Gill family’s Osoyoos vineyard, where 1.2-acres of Muscat grapes were planted in 2010. The wine was fermented and aged in stainless steel and has been lightly carbonated. It features intensely spicy aromas and flavours with a crisp, dry finish. 91.

After 93 Rosé Frizzante NV ($30 for 291 cases). The grapes in this sparkling wine are one-third Merlot, two-thirds Cabernet Franc. Each varietal was fermented separately in stainless steel, then blended and aged 18 months in stainless steel. It was lightly carbonated at bottling. This presents in the glass with visually appealing rose petal hues and a light effervescence. It has aromas and flavours of raspberry and strawberry. The finish is crisp and refreshing. 90.

River Stone's strategy for survival

Photo: River Stone's Ted Cane

Few small wineries were as hard hit by the January 2024 freeze as River Stone Estate Winery, just north of Oliver. “After months of observation and analysis,” co-proprietor and winemaker Ted Kane wrote recently, “we concluded that not only did the freeze impact our entire crop from 2024, but there was evidence of long-term damage affecting between 40% and 95% of vines, depending on varietal and vineyard site.”

Anyone but Ted might have walked away from the business. In the 2020 edition of The Okanagan Wine Tour Guide, I noted how determined he was to be a winery owner in the first place: “The winery is owned by Ted and Lorraine Kane. Born in Edmonton in 1962, Ted was so focussed on wine growing that he grew grapes in a greenhouse there just to learn how. He and Lorraine, now a family physician, moved to Oliver in 2002 to plant a three -hectare (seven-acre) vineyard on land that, for all of its excellent viticultural qualities, had been fallow for 30 years.”

Instead of shutting the business down, Ted writes that: “We took action to ensure River Stone remained resilient. We planned for short-term and long-term solutions to allow us to continue our work as wine sellers and producers in the South Okanagan.” The long-term solution has involved replanting five of the seven acres of the River Rock Vineyard (the original vineyard) and six of the nine acres at the nearby Boulder City Vineyard (more recently acquired by River Stone). Many of the original varietals have been replanted; a few have been replaced.

River Stone’s short-term solution, like that of many of its peers, was to source grapes for the 2024 vintage from Washington State. “We partnered with growers … choosing vineyards that share our terroir and commitment to quality,” Ted continues. “This collaboration has allowed us to create a 2024 vintage of wines we are incredibly proud of. … We’ve named this collection Good Neighbours, a tribute to the camaraderie and partnership within our industry.”

It is obvious that River Stone’s newly planted vines will not produce grapes this fall. Ted writes that “2025 may bring another vintage sourced from Washington [but] we look forward to returning to estate fruit as our vineyards recover.”

The debut Good Neighbours collection consists of four white wines. They are, in my judgment, absolutely top quality, as I have come to expect from River Stone. Here are my notes.

River Stone Splash Good Neighbours 2024 ($23.90 for 361 cases). This is a blend of equal parts of Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. The grapes are from two Washington AVAs: Horse Heaven Hills and Wahluke. The fruit was fermented cool with selected yeasts. This delicious blend is fruit salad in a glass, with aromas and flavours of apples and citrus fruits. 92.

River Stone Good Neighbours Chenin Blanc 2024 ($25.90 for 208 cases). The grapes are from Washington’s Wahluke Slope AVA. This is a luscious wine, with aromas and flavours of peaches, pears and citrus. The texture is full and the finish is long. 92.

River Stone Good Neighbours Sauvignon Blanc 2024 ($25.90 for 266 cases; plus 80 cases in 200 ml bottles). The grapes are from the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. The fruit was fermented cool with select yeast strains. This is a zesty, refreshing wine with aromas and flavours of lime and grapefruit mingled with herbs. The finish is crisp. 92.

River Stone Good Neighbours Unoaked Chardonnay 2024 ($24.90 for 183 cases). The fruit is from the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. The grapes were fermented and aged in stainless steel. This is a bright wine with flavours of green apples and pears that dance vivaciously on the palate. 9o.