Covert Farms releases its Grand Reserves

Photo: Gene Covert (courtesy Covert Farms)

Covert Farms Family Estate is one of the South Okanagan’s longest-established and most successful farming enterprises. It was established in 1959 by Californian-born George Covert. He had succeeded there as a wholesaler and shipper of fruits and vegetables until he chanced to hear about the Okanagan and its potential. The square mile of property he bought on promontory north of Oliver soon became a major producer of grapes, vegetables and tree fruits. His grandson, Gene, operates the farm today, having transformed it entirely to organic production, notable for biodynamic and regenerative agricultural practices.

In spite of the property’s long history, a winery was established here only in 2006. “Our wines are crafted using 100% estate-grown grapes with minimal intervention and natural fermentation where possible,” the winery explains in a note with the current releases. [The wines] “are certified salmon safe and vegan. White wines display a purity of fruit and crisp natural acidity coveted by growers, while our low-yielding farming results in terroir-focussed, artisan reds that are luscious and age-worthy.” Here are notes on current Grand Reserve releases.

Covert Farms Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2021 ($50 for 75 cases). This wine was barrel-fermented for 45 days and aged nine months in first and second fill French oak. Half of the wine was allowed to go through malolactic fermentation. This is a rich and elegant wine, beginning with aromas of pear and apple. The palate has flavours of pear, apple mingled with vanilla. The finish lingers. 91.

Covert Farms Grand Reserve Roussanne 2017 ($43.90 for 44 cases). This wine fermented for 35 days and then was aged 10 months sur lies in neutral French oak barrels. The wine presents with a light golden hue. It begins with aromas of stone fruit and vanilla. On the palate, there are flavours of apricot and peach. The flavours are remarkably bright for a six-year-old wine. The texture is rich and the finish lingers. 91.

Covert Farms Amicitia 2019 ($29.80 for 900 cases). This is a blend of 35% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Cabernet Franc, 11% Malbec, 8% Petit Verdot and 2% Syrah. The wine was fermented for 25 days in open-top fermenters, with daily punch downs. It was aged 14 months in barrel. It is a harmonious blend, with aromas of black currant and spice. On the palate, flavours of black currant mingle with black cherry, blackberry and leather. The tannins are long and the finish lingers. 90.

Covert Farms Grand Reserve Pinot Noir 2020 ($40.80 for 225 cases). This wine begins with aromas of spice and cherry. The palate is packed with flavour: cherry, plum and cocoa. The finish lingers. 92.

Covert Farms Grand Reserve Syrah 2020 ($58.90 for 125 cases). The wine was fermented 28 days in open top fermenters, with daily punch downs and then aged 21 months in French oak. This is a big, bold wine. Aromas of deli meats and pepper are mingled with dark fruits. On the palate, there are flavours of plum, black pepper, cocoa and pepper. 92.

Covert Farms Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($63.80 for 171 cases). The wine was fermented for 26 days in open-top fermenters and aged 20 months in French oak. A whiff of oak mingled with dark cherry, plum and spice. On the palate, dark cherry and red licorice are mingled with dark chocolate and tobacco. 91.