Sperling has wine for the cool kids

Photo: Winemaker Ann Sperling

The internet tells me that “all the cool kids” are drinking pét-nap wines. Pet Nat, as it appears on the label of a recent release from Sperling Vineyards of Kelowna, is short for “pétillant naturel” – French for naturally sparkling wines. The French also call it méthode ancestral because it is a much older, and simpler, way of making sparkling wine than Champagne. Put simply, such a wine is bottled when it has still not quite finished primary formation. The fermentation completed in the bottle creates more bubbles, which are trapped under the closure. That is not all that is trapped. The remaining light fermentation lees are also still in the bottle. The cool kids are presented not just playful bubbles but haze and often a layer of yeast cells that settles in the bottom of the bottle – and can be stirred up if the bottle is shaken. I can’t imagine putting a bottle of cloudy wine on my table, let alone on any of the restaurants the cool kids frequent. But then, I am not cool.

Having said that, the wine is quite drinkable, refreshing on a hot day. It would pair well with a charcuterie plate. The fact is that Ann Sperling, the winemaker and one of the owners at Sperling Vineyards, is one of Canada’s most seasoned winemakers. Even when she makes a weird wine like Pet Nat, it correctly made. The winery also makes a sparkling pink Pet Nat. Here are notes on Sperling’s current wines.

Sperling Pinot Old Vine Blanc 2021 ($23). Crisp and dry, this is a textbook Pinot Blanc. It begins with aromas of apples. On the palate, the apple flavours mingle with hints of stone fruits. The wine has a fine skein of minerality to give it a generous texture and a long finish. 90.

Sperling Amber Pinot Gris 2021 ($32). A skin contact Pinot Gris, this is a wine with originality. Slightly hazy, it has an orange hue, with aromas and flavours of orange peel and pink apples. 90.

Sperling Heritage Pinot Noir Rosé 2021 ($22). This wine is 90% Pinot Noir, with estate-grown grapes from a 2008 planting. The remainder of the blend is Old Vine Pinot Blanc. A four-hour soak on the skins produced a comparatively dark hue. The Pinot Blanc lifts the aromas. The ripe strawberry and plum flavours have an almost jammy intensity. 88.

Sperling Organic Vision Pinot Noir Rosé 2021 ($25). This wine presents with an appealing pink salmon hue. The aroma jumps from the glass – ripe strawberries mingled with rhubarb. That is echoed in the flavours. The texture is full and the finish lingers. 92.

Sperling Old Vines Riesling 2016 ($35). The grapes are from vines of clone 21-B Riesling planted in 1978. This very sophisticated wine begins with the aromas of petrol quite typical as the varietal ages. The rich texture delivers flavours of lemon zest mingled with petrol. There is still a touch of fresh acidity. A wine for the Riesling connoisseur. 93.

Sperling Speritz Pet Nat NV</ ($30). Hazy in the bottle and in the glass, the wine presents a light display of bubbles and light citrus aromas. It is crisply dry, with notes of citrus and apple and hint of spice. 90.