Photo: Winemaker Sandy Leier (credit Mackenzie Dempsey)
One of this summer’s more intriguing winemaker moves in the Okanagan was the recent announcement that Sandy Leier, the winemaker at Sandhill Wines since 2018, has joined Laughing Stock Vineyards.
She succeeds Dave Carson, who retired after a 40-year career with Arterra Wines Canada and its predecessor wineries. Arterra took over Naramata-based Laughing Stock in 2017. She is supported at Laughing Stock by assistant winemaker Kaitlyn Berendt and cellar hand Cohen Park.
“I am absolutely thrilled to be joining the team at Laughing Stock Vineyards,” Sandy said in the announcement. “Throughout my career, I have had the opportunity to travel for work to many regions, and Naramata is second to none. I look forward to working with the viticulture and winemaking teams to consistently craft the premium, terroir-driven wines that Laughing Stock has become known for.”
Born in Vancouver and raised in the Okanagan, Sandy joined Calona Vineyards in 2006 after earning a Bachelor of Science in Chemistry at UBC Okanagan. She mentored with Howard Soon, the legendary chief winemaker at Sandhill Wines and Calona. Sandy became the lead winemaker for Calona Vineyards and Wayne Gretzky Okanagan Wines between 2006 and 2016.
Her wines have received a number of awards, among them the Lieutenant Governor’s award in 2013 for the 2011 Calona Vineyards Artist Series Pinot Noir, Gold at the Syrah du Monde for the 2014 Wayne Gretzky Signature Shiraz and Gold/Best in Class at All Canadian Wine Championships for the 2016 Wayne Gretzky Signature Riesling.
Throughout her career, Leier has traveled to wine regions in Australia, France, Chile and Argentina to study winemaking and viticultural processes and explore winemaking styles. Sandy is currently completing the Viticulture Certificate Program at Washington State University.
Sandy had succeeded Howard Soon in 2018, shortly after he retired at Sandhill. Where Howard made single vineyard wines only, she extended the portfolio to include “terroir driven” wines with fruit from several of the vineyards that supply Sandhill.
In the 2020 vintage, she moved the Sovereign Opal varietal from the Calona portfolio to Sandhill. The varietal has a special heritage in the Okanagan. A cross between Golden Muscat and Maréchal Foch, it was developed at the Summerland research station. It was first planted in 1981 by John Casorso, a member of one of the Okanagan’s oldest grape-growing families. Today, the Casorso family are growing 12 ½ acres of Sovereign Opal.
Sandhill pioneered the concept of single vineyard wines before that was emphasized by other wineries. Today, with the creation of sub-geographic indications, there is wide-scale attention to terroir and how it is reflected in wines.
While Sandy has moved on, a number of Sandhill wines currently in the market testify why Arterra recruited her.
Here are notes on the wines.
b>Sandhill Pinot Gris 2121 ($20.99 for 6,694 cases). This wine was made with grapes from the King Family, long-time Sandhill growers on the Naramata Bench, and Hidden Terrace Vineyard, the Andrew Peller vineyard at Covert Farm. The wine was fermented cool and aged five months in stainless steel. It is a crisp and refreshing Pinot Gris with aromas of pear and melon. On the palate, there is a medley of fruit flavours, with a hint of anise on the finish. 91.
Sandhill Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($20.99 for 1,599 cases). Made from a blend of grapes from Hidden Terrace and the Sandhill Vineyard, this is a classically zesty Sauvignon Blanc, with aromas and flavours of lime and lemon mingled with herbal notes. The vibrant flavours reflect the care taken to make this wine in a very hot year. The grapes were picked early in the morning, when the fruit was cool, and about a week earlier than normal. 92.
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($20.99 for 3,222 cases). This may be the most sophisticated vintage yet of a varietal that, in its earlier years, was simple and grapey. This vintage begins with an appealing aroma of spice and citrus. On the palate, a medley of tropical fruit flavours mingle with spice and a hint of grapefruit. The finish is crisp and dry. 92.
($30 at winery only; 225 cases). The fashionably pale hue of this wine came about because the grapes were held two hours in the press but got no more skin contact after that. The wine was fermented in stainless steel at a cool temperature and then aged on the lees for three months in neutral French oak barrels. The wine has aromas of cherries and flavours of strawberry and watermelon. 91
0 ($20.99 for 4,467 cases). This is a delicious expression of the varietal, dark in colour, with aromas of dark cherry, black currant and vanilla. On the palate there are flavours of plum, cherry, black currant and chocolate. The texture is rich and the finish is persistent. This wine was aged 14 months in 70% French oak and 30% American oak, including some large format foudres. 90.
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