Clos du Soleil releases some 2021s and its flagship Signature

Photo: Clos du Soleil's Michael Clark

One of the strongest producers in the Similkameen Valley is Clos du Soleil Winery. The release of four 2021 wines and the flagship red from 2019 illustrate the winery’s capabilities. Here is an excerpt from the Okanagan Wine Tour Guide, my 2020 book with Luke Whittall.

Michael Clark, the winemaker and managing director at Clos du Soleil, is a self-described worrier. “I consider it a strength,” he says, chuckling. He worries about getting the details right to make the best wine possible. However, the Bordeaux-inspired wines at Clos are so well done that he actually has nothing to worry about. The winery was launched in 2008 by four business couples led by Spencer Massie, a former naval officer who had developed a good palate both in his ship’s mess and during various shore assignments near wine regions. Michael, who was born in Ontario in 1972, joined the partnership in 2012 following a wine passion nurtured since his youth. “I read Champagne Is for Breakfast when I was probably 10 years old,” he says, referring to George Bain’s classic Canadian wine book published in 1972. “I don’t know other children who loved to read wine books.”

Initially he pursued a career as an investment banker, latterly in Switzerland where he began formal studies in winemaking in 2010 and where he worked at Swiss and Bordeaux wineries. On returning to Canada, he completed the rigorous University of California enology program online while identifying Clos du Soleil as the winery where he could make his mark in British Columbia. “Winemaking is such a blend of science and art,” he says. “That is what draws most people to it, including myself.” Clos du Soleil is focused on red and white wines from Bordeaux varieties. The initial 4-hectare (10-acre) vineyard was planted in 2007. In 2017 and 2018, the winery acquired neighbouring parcels. The property Les Collines (because of its hilly terrain) was planted with 2.2 hectares (5½ acres) of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. The 4-hectare (10-acre) La Côte property had 2.9 hectares (7¼ acres) of mature vines, notably Malbec, and a cherry orchard since replaced with Merlot and Cabernet Franc.

In the winery, which is well equipped with concrete and stainless steel fermenters, Michael ferments largely with indigenous yeasts. His winemaking style is minimalist. “My philosophy is that our best wines demonstrate their quality in ways other than bigness or heaviness,” he says. “A great wine has elegance and complexity, not huge, chewy fruit or aggressive tannins. To me, delicacy matters.”

Here are notes on the wines.

Clos du Soleil Fumé Blanc 2021 ($23.90 for 745 cases). This is 61% Sauvignon Blanc, 39% Sémillon, with fruit from both the Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys. The wines were fermented slowly, at cool temperatures, in both stainless steel and oak puncheons. All lots aged four months on lees before blending and bottling. The wine begins with aromas of grapefruit and lime. The palate delivers more grapefruit and lime, along with notes of guava. There are herbal notes on the lingering finish. 91.

Clos du Soleil Winemaker’s Series Pinot Gris 2021 ($23.90 for 715 cases). The fruit is from the winery’s Whispered Secret Vineyard in the Similkameen. The wine had a long, col fermentation in a combination of stainless steel tanks and barrels, as well a French oak puncheons. The wine was aged on the lees for three months. Aromas of citrus and pear are echoed on the palate. The texture is fleshy but there is enough acidity to lead to a crisp, tangy finish. 91.

Clos du Soleil Winemaker’s Series Pinot Blanc 2021 ($24.90 for 410 cases). The fruit is from the winery’s Middle Bench Vineyard in the Similkameen. The wine was fermented cool in stainless steel, preserving the appealing aromas and flavours. The wine begins with aromas of apple and nectarine. The palate is a fruit salad of flavour – apple, stone fruit – leading to a fresh, dry finish. 92.

Clos du Soleil Rosé 2021 ($26.90 for 404 cases). This wine is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Malbec, with grapes grown just for this wine. The lightly crushed grapes were soaked on the skins for four hours under dry ice, extracting a pale salmon hue. The varieties were fermented together in stainless steel and remained on the lees for four months. The wine is delightfully fruity, with aromas and flavours of watermelon, raspberry and rhubarb. The flavours remain on the palate for a very long time. This is one of the finest British Columbia rosé wines from the 2121 vintage. 93.

Clos du Soleil Signature 2019 ($54.90 for 453 cases). This is 42% Merlot, 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Malbec, 10% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot. The wine is a selection of the best barrels after 16 months aging in French oak. This is an age-worthy wine but, for immediate consumption, decanting is recommended. The wine begins with aromas of blackberry, black currant, dark cherry and chocolate. On the palate, there are flavours of black cherry, cassis, chocolate, tobacco and vanilla. 94.