Riverstone's Bordeaux-inspired wines

Photo: River Stone's Ted Kane

There was an unfortunate surprise among the latest releases from Riverstone Estate Winery: Corner Stone 2019, the flagship red wine, was corked. Corked wines are rare because the quality of corks is much improved or because the winery has switched to screw cap closures. Some wines from Riverstone had screw caps but there is an expectation among consumers that a $50 wine should be closed with a cork. There might also be an argument that wines meant to be laid down to age are better under cork.

Corner Stone was one of the wines included in my 2017 book, Icon: Flagship Wines from British Columbia’s Best Wineries. The object of the book was to encourage readers to buy a few bottles of a favourite wine each year and cellar them to accumulate a vertical of mature wines. Corner Stone ticked off those boxes. Fortunately, I had a trip scheduled to the Okanagan in June. I made a point to drop in at Riverstone and taste Corner Stone 2019. This time, the closure was sound and the wine measured up to my expectations.

The following except from Icon tells the story of that wine. Ted Kane had Corner Stone in mind back in 2003, when he began planting the River Stone vineyard on Tucelnuit Drive, just outside Oliver. In the French tradition, he planted Bordeaux varietals—Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Malbec—in the proportions he believed he needed for his blend. “I knew at the beginning it was going to be a Merlot-forward, Right Bank Bordeaux style because of our cool-climate growing conditions,” Ted says. “Merlot is the most reliable ripener as opposed to Cabernet Sauvignon, which I knew would be the last to ripen.” Consequently, Merlot was the biggest block on the well-drained south-facing slopes. Subsequent experience led him to increase the planting of Cabernet Franc, another reliable ripener. He also replaced five rows of Cabernet Sauvignon with Petit Verdot in order to grow the full suite needed for a Bordeaux-type blend.

Ted says some have drawn parallels between Corner Stone and Bordeaux’s Château Cheval Blanc, although in the latter’s vineyard, Cabernet Franc takes the lead, followed by Merlot. While he does not mind the compliment inherent in that comparison, Ted says that Corner Stone is made in the New World style, closer to reds from California or Chile. “I wanted to produce wines that had concentration and weight,” he says. “I also found after a short time in France that what I didn’t want was the astringency that was still there after year six on some of the wines.” Ted, who was born in Edmonton in 1962, began making wines from tree fruits when he was 19. Even as he began a career as a respiratory therapist, he was obsessed with wine-growing. “I built a small greenhouse by my house in Edmonton,” he says. “I bought grapevines from Eastern Canada and propagated and grew them, just so I could learn pruning and trellising and irrigation techniques.” By the late 1990s, while his wife, Lorraine, was completing a medical degree, Ted was anxious to find an Okanagan property before, in her words, “it was all gone.” Good properties were still available in 2001, when they found 3.8 hectares (9.5 acres) of raw land near Oliver, on a hill beside the Okanagan River. They moved there in 2002, planting a 3-hectare (7.5-acre) vineyard while Lorraine began a family medicine practice.

After selling grapes for several years, Ted took advantage of the superb 2009 harvest to make River Stone’s debut vintages. He was mentored in his first vintage by a consulting winemaker, New Zealand–trained Jacqueline Kemp. She remains on call when another palate is needed, but Ted is now comfortable in his ability to grow grapes and make wine. The individual varietals are fermented in small lots that are aged separately in French oak barrels for 14 to 18 months. By blending time, Ted has identified the best barrels of each varietal. Wine not needed for Corner Stone is blended into Stones Throw, which, in the French tradition, is made for earlier consumption. He also bottles modest volumes of single varietals, offering them in the wine shop and to his wine club. Perhaps the most notable of these single varietals is the Cabernet Franc, which grows very successfully in the River Stone vineyard. “If I knew back when I planted what I know now, I would have planted more Cabernet Franc,” Ted admits. Much like Cheval Blanc.

Because Ted makes more than just Corner Stone, here are notes on some of the winery’s current releases.

River Stone Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($23.90 for 846 cases). The grapes, after a brief cold soak on the skins, were pressed into tanks. Temperature-controlled fermentation with cultured yeast happened in a stainless steel tank. This is a thespian wine in the glass. Assertive aromas of lime and herbs lead to flavours of lime, grapefruit and passion fruit. The bright acidity gives the wine a zesty and refreshing finish. 91.

River Stone Malbec Rosé 2022 ($24.90 for 742 cases). This wine presents with the dark hue that I like in rosé. The blend is 85% Malbec, 10% Pinot Gris and 5% Merlot. The grapes are allowed a one- to two-day cold soak, extracting not just a rich colour but also flavours and some tannin to give the wine backbone. Temperature fermentation took place in stainless steel and the wine was aged three months on fine lees to enhance mouthfeel. This is a juicy and textural rosé with aromas and flavours of cherries and strawberries. 92.

River Stone Splash 2022 ($22.90 for 500 cases). This is a blend of 44% Viognier, 35% Pinot Gris and 21% Gewürztraminer. Each varietal was fermented separately with selected yeasts. The winery describes the style as off-dry but the balance is so effective that the finish is crisp. There is a medley of fruit in the aroma – apple, guava, citrus – which is echoed on the palate. 90.

River Stone Malbec 2021 ($38.90 for 145 cases). The grapes were destemmed, with 80% left as whole berries. They were cold-soaked between three and five days and fermented in both stainless steel tanks and small totes to maximize skin contact. The wine was aged for 14 months in French oak barrels (33% new). The wine begins with aromas of violets, dark cherry and blackberry. The palate echoes the aromas, with spice on the lingering finish. 92.

River Stone Cabernet Franc 2021 ($38.90 for 171 cases). The winemaking practices with this wine were similar to the Malbec – whole berries, cold soaking but with the cap being plunged down two or three times a day during fermentation. The wine was aged 14 months in French oak barrels (33% new). The wine begins with aromas of spice, blackberries and dark cherries. The palate reflects the aromas, with additional notes of blueberries. The flavours are vibrant, lingering on the long finish. 91.

River Stone Corner Stone 2019 ($46.90 for 446 cases). The blend is 33% Cabernet Franc, 33% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Malbec and 6% Petit Verdot. Select barrels were chosen for the final blend. In total, the wine was aged 18 months in French oak. The wine begins with aromas of cassis and dark cherry. The flavours are rich, displaying plum, dark cherry, black currant and spice mingled with notes of chocolate and oak. Long ripe tannins give the wine a lingering finish. 94.