Apricus Cellars: Sam Baptiste's latest contribution to Okanagan wine

Photo: Grapegrower and winery promoter Sam Baptiste

When Sam Baptiste, the legendary grape grower, drives to Apricus Cellars in the District Wine Village north of Oliver, he passes the sprawling Jackson-Triggs winery complex, a project he had a crucial role in launching. Jackson-Triggs is a successor to T.G. Bright & Co., which opened the original winery on the site in 1982. It almost did not happen but for the decisiveness of Sam.

Sam was then the elected chief of the Osoyoos Indian Band. Brights, which was headquartered in Niagara Falls and was Canada’s oldest winery, proposed leasing land from the band for an 800,000-gallon winery. Within First Nations circles, the proposal was controversial. "It almost didn't happen," Sam once told me in an interview. He recalled some chiefs telling him: "Sam, the biggest problem on every reserve is alcoholism -- and you're putting in a winery!" His first reaction was to call off the talks with Brights but he changed his mind after the meeting with other chiefs. "I thought about it and I decided it was none of their business."

The $1.9 million investment by Brights was a foundation for the extensive involvement of the Osoyoos Indian Band in the South Okanagan’s wine industry. Chief Clarence Louie, who succeeded Sam as the band’s chief, told me proudly once of the many band members who, far from having problems with alcohol, were retiring on pensions after a long career in the various wine businesses on the reserve. One of those businesses is the 304-acre Inkameep Vineyard just northeast of Oliver. Sam went to work there in 1987 after leaving band politics. Under his management, the vineyard has come to be one of the most highly regarded vineyards in the South Okanagan. He was in charge of replanting the hybrid grape varieties with vinifera grapes.

A few years ago, Sam, who still is Inkameep’s manager, headed a group of investors to create the Apricus Cellars winery. His winemaker is Aaron Crey (above), who had learned his art during 17 years at Nk’Mip Cellars in Osoyoos. Nk’Mip, which made its first vintage in 2000, is a joint venture of Jackson-Triggs and the Osoyoos band. Aaron, who was mentored by Randy Picton, the now-retired winemaker at Nk’Mip Cellars in Osoyoos, had become the cellarmaster at Nk’Mip before Sam recruited him for Apricus where he gets to fly on his own at a start-up winery.

The District “not only provides a platform for entrepreneurs and young winemakers to showcase their creations, but it has also attracted seasoned professionals from larger production backgrounds, who have a desire to switch gears and focus on smaller and more specialized wine production,” Aaron said in a 2021 interview with the Castenet news service. “It sounded like a good opportunity and something I wanted to be part of. There is a lot of history here. Really brilliant people, who have helped shape the Okanagan wine industry have gravitated towards this place, and I think that’s really unique.”

On its website, the winery explains its name. “Apricus Cellars was born out of our love for the climate, land, soil, and sun of the South Okanagan and the fruit grown in those elements. Apricus (äˈpriːkʊs̠) is a medieval Latin word that means both ’basking in sunshine’ and ‘delectable’. No word better describes our wine and the environment in which we produce it.” “Of utmost importance at Apricus Cellars is showcasing the outstanding quality of the fruit grown for us just minutes up the road,” the winery continues, referencing Inkameep Vineyards. “One of our owners often says, ‘you can’t make chicken salad out of chicken droppings.’ Likewise, you can’t make the best wine without the best grapes”. The current Apricus portfolio is small, perhaps because the capacity of its pod in the District is 2,500 cases. But the wines are very well made. Here are notes.

Apricus Daybreak 2020 ($26.50). This is a blend of 50% Ehrenfelser and 25% each of Riesling and Pinot Gris. The wine is fermented in stainless steel to preserve the aromatic properties, which dominate the aromas. On the palate, there are flavours of pear, melon and citrus. The finish is crisp. 90.

Apricus Aurora 2020 ($29.75). This is 100% Pinot Gris, fermented 75% in stainless steel and 25% in neutral oak; the latter has given the wine a full texture. It has aromas and flavours of pear, apple and peach. The finish lingers. 91.

Apricus Eclipse 2020 ($29.75). This is 100% Chardonnay fermented and aged six months in new French oak. Big and buttery, this is a traditional-styled Chardonnay. Aromas of almonds mingle with flavours of pear. Again, the finish is long. 92.

Apricus Rosé 2022 ($N/A). This is a blend of 50% Tempranillo, 50% Malbec. The wine has aromas and flavours of raspberry and watermelon, with a crisp, dry finish. 90.

Apricus Zephyr 2018 ($34). The blend is 75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 5% Malbec, aged 24 months in French oak. It has aromas of dark fruits and cassis, echoed on the palate. 92.

Apricus Aspect 2019 ($69). The blend is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, and 5% each of Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. The wine was also aged 24 months in French oak. This is a dark and intense red with aromas of red fruits. On the palate, there are flavours of plum, black currant, dark chocolate and spice. 94.