Township 7's Polaris and friends

Photo: winemaker Mary McDermott

These three excellent wines were released by Township 7 Vineyards & Winery in April. My reviews were delayed by a sudden outpouring of spring releases from BC wineries. In any event, the two reserve wines were released to Township 7’s loyal – and dare I say pampered – wine club. Polaris, the sparkling wine, is available at Township 7’s two wineries (in Penticton and in South Langley).

Township 7 released its first sparkling wine in 2001 and, with winemaker Mary McDermott, has emerged as a leading producer of elegant sparkling wines. The winery’s first sparking wine, now called Polaris, was then called Seven Stars. seven stars has now become the brand for Township 7’s portfolio of sparkling wines. Polaris is now the only one of these wines available to the general public. The rest, along with Polaris, are delivered exclusively through the seven stars wine club, whose members can get a shipment of six bottles twice a year. This is one of the very few wine clubs in Canada dedicated just to sparkling wine.

Mike Raffan, Township 7’s general manager and the winery’s former owner, wanted to launch a sparkling wine program as soon as he became involved with Township 7. “When I bought the winery in 2006, I wanted to do more sparkling,” he says. “We had an unusual site in Langley. I always wanted to do something but it never worked out.” In 2014, he got an offer he “could not refuse” from businessman Ge Song whose deep pockets have enabled Township 7 to expand its winery, invest in vineyards, hire winemaker Mary McDermott and launch the sparkling wine project in 2015. “In 2014, when we hired Mary, she had the experience, the knowledge and mostly the passion about sparkling wines,” Mike recalls. “That was part of our first interview. It was not primarily why she was hired but, as it turns out, we were able to start the project in 2015.”

Mary McDermott became passionate about sparkling wines while taking WSET courses and working as a sommelier in Ontario. “I loved sparkling - it is one of my favourites,” she says. “When I started full time in wineries, I worked at Cave Springs Cellars [near St. Catharines]. They had a small sparkling program there and I got my hands dirty, because I worked fulltime in the cellars then. I moved from Cave Springs to Trius and took over the Trius program, which is much larger. It kept going from there.” She continues: “I always really enjoyed sparkling wine. The process is quite different than making other wines. There is a lot more patience required. You have to be aware of all the things that are happening with the ferments … how the grapes are coming in, how they are grown. It takes a little more attention to detail when you are making it. It was challenging for me and I like that. That’s where all that passion comes from.”

Here are notes on the wines.

Township 7 Benchmark Series Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($31.97 for 300 cases). This wine was fermented in French oak barrels (15% new, 85% neutral) and aged for seven months. The wine begins with aromas of citrus and tropical fruits. The palate has lively tropical fruit flavours mingled with vanilla and toasty oak. The finish lingers. This is an elegant and complex wine. 93.

Township 7 Benchmark Series Reserve Chardonnay 2021 ($31.97 for 145 cases). This wine was fermented with indigenous yeast in French oak (28% new) with hand stirring for eight weeks to increase lees contact and round out the texture. It was then aged in barrel for 12 months before being bottled. The wine begins with aromas of cloves, apple and toasty oak. The texture is rich and creamy, with flavours of stone fruit and vanilla. 93.

Township 7 seven stars Polaris 2019 ($39.97 for 5,100 bottles). This is a traditional method blanc de blancs made with Chardonnay. The wine was en tirage for 21 months before being disgorged. It aged in bottle a further nine months before release. The wine presents with a good display of bubbles and bready aromas mingled with citrus. On the palate, flavours of green apple mingle with bready notes. The mousse gives the wine an initial creamy texture that leads to a crisp and lingering finish. 91.