Clos du Soleil's 2023 spring releases

Photo: Clos du Soleil managing director Michael Clark

One of the most entertaining wine books by a Canadian author was Champagne is for Breakfast by the late George Bain. The book, published in 1972, is out of print but turns up occasionally in used bookstores. Michael Clark, the winemaker and managing director at Clos du Soleil Winery, once told me that he read the book when he was 10 years old. “I don’t know of other children who loved to read wine books,” he said. He was born in the same year that the book was published.

Initially he pursued a career as an investment banker, latterly in Switzerland where he began formal studies in winemaking in 2010 and where he worked at Swiss and Bordeaux wineries. On returning to Canada, he completed the rigorous University of California enology program online while identifying Clos du Soleil as the winery where he could make his mark in British Columbia. “Winemaking is such a blend of science and art,” he said. “That is what draws most people to it, including myself.” In the decade or so since Michael joined the partnership that had launched this Similkameen winery in 2006, he has certainly made his mark. The winery, which owned just the 10 acre-estate vineyard when he joined, has since purchased or developed three more Similkameen vineyards and now farms about 30 acres. Clos du Soleil has also won a number of top awards for its wines, including several at the prestigious Decanter competition in London.

Here are notes on current releases.

Clos du Soleil Pinot Gris 2022 ($24.90 for 1,078 cases). This wine went through a long, cool ferment in stainless steel barrels, tanks and French oak puncheons. It was aged on the lees for three months. There are aromas and flavours of pear and apple wrapped around a spine of minerality. 91.

Clos du Soleil Fumé Blanc 2022 ($24.90 for 1,239 cases). This is 69% Sauvignon Blanc and 31% Sémillon. The varietals were fermented separately after a two-hour skin contact. The long, slow ferment was done in stainless steel tanks and French oak puncheons. The wine begins with aromas of lime mingled with herbs. That is echoed on the palate, along with flavours of guava and grapefruit. The wine has a crisp and bright finish. 92.

Clos du Soleil Rosé 2022 ($28.90 for 268 cases). This is 91% Malbec, 9% Sauvignon Blanc, co-fermented. The grapes were destemmed, crushed lightly and soaked under dry ice for four hours before being pressed and then fermented cool in stainless steel. The wine presents in the glass with a lovely rose petal hue and with aromas of strawberries and pomegranate. On the palate, there are flavours of strawberry and watermelon with a hint of citrus on the dry finish. 91.

Clos du Soleil Signature 2020 ($55.90 for 743 cases). The blend is 34% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Cabernet Franc, 9% Malbec and 3% Petit Verdot. The grapes, after being gently destemmed, were fermented in concrete tanks with indigenous yeast and then aged in French oak barrels for 16 months. Only the best barrels were selected for this, the flagship red at Clos du Soleil. The wine begins with aromas of cassis, blackberry, raspberry and spice. On the palate, there are flavours of black currant mingled with cherry and raspberry. On the finish, there are hints of spice and minerality. 94.