Corcelettes Talus: a rock-solid flagship red

Photo: Jesce and Charlie Baessler

The Similkameen Valley’s Corcelettes Estate Winery is justifiably trumpeting the scores that wine critics have been giving to Talus 2020, its flagship red blend. Prior to the release of the wine, which sells for $55 a bottle, proprietors Jesce and Charlie Baessler have given various critics early opportunities to taste the wine. One reviewer scored the wine 93 points and two scored it 94.

I visited the winery on September 23, which happened to be the day when the first grapes of the promising 2022 vintage arrived at Corcelettes’ crush pad. Charlie and Jesce, his wife, took time away from crushing grapes to lead me through a tasting that concluded with the 2020 Talus. I was then unaware of how others had scored the wine. But I gave this spectacular blend 95 points.

The Corcelettes winery is now producing about 6,500 cases a year, with most of the grapes from the 30 acres the winery farms. That includes a newly developed vineyard, the three-acre K-Vista Vineyard planted with Pinot Noir high up on the mountainside above the winery. “I was putting in two, three acres a year for a while,” Charlie says of the steady and measured growth at Corcelettes. “These 30 acres we have planted will continue to demand production space. We don’t want to overcommit and choke ourselves. As these vineyards mature, we need to find markets and tighten the screws on our production facility.” He plans to pause for a year or two. “Probably after that, we would be ready for another project. I would love to have 40 acres.” “Charlie is very ambitious,” Jesce observes.

The winery’s first vintage from a 2 ½- acre Cawston vineyard, was a mere 200 cases in 2011. The Baesslers seized the opportunity to expand in 2015 when they are able to buy Herder Vineyards near Keremeos. The Cawston vineyard was sold while Charlie began adding to the vineyards that Herder had established. Today, Corcelettes has 15 wines in its portfolio, including a sparkling wine in a can. Talus crowns the portfolio. Previously, the flagship wine was a Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah blend called Menhir. The name is taken from that used for stone obelisks in Switzerland, where Charlie’s parents lived before immigrating to Canada. Menhir has been discontinued because Charlie has been elevating both those varieties as standalone wines. He chose not to take away the best barrels of those to support Menhir when he had decided to make Talus, a small-lot blend of five varieties that replaced and elevated the Meritage the winery previous had in its portfolio.

Talus is a geological term for a slope formed by rock debris. It describes many of the mountainsides in the Similkameen Valley near Keremeos. “Our new baby is Sunshot Vineyard next door,” Charlie says. “It is all cut from these talus slopes. We rooted vines in some of the gnarliest soil I have ever seen. I can’t believe the vines have adored it so much. The day we were digging these holes … you can’t dig them by hand ... we were backfilling roots with stone, not dirt. The vines all grew.” Here are notes on current releases.

Corcelettes Viognier 2021 Micro Lot Series ($31.90 for 110 cases). This wine was fermented and aged nine months on the lees in a French oak foudre. Richly textured, the wine has aromas of honey and almonds leading to flavours of nectarine and peach. The dry finish is long with hints of marmalade. 92.

Corcelettes Chardonnay 2021 Micro Lot Series ($34.90 for 255 cases). This wine was fermented and aged six months in new French oak (40%) and a concrete sphere (60%). Full malolactic fermentation has given a buttery note to the citrus aromas and flavour. An elegant wine. 92.

Corcelettes Merlot 2019 ($31.90 for 795 cases). The winery has three Merlot blocks, all tucked against a mountain for an exposure that produces quite ripe fruit. Consequently, this wine – which was aged 18 months in French oak (25% new) – is bold and ripe. Aromas of cassis lead to flavours of black currant, blueberry and chocolate. Long, ripe tannins give this wine a long finish. 92.

Corcelettes Syrah 2019 ($32.90 for 680 cases). Viognier skins are added to the ferment of this wine, which is then aged 16 months in barrel (90% French, 10% American). The wine begins with a whiff of white pepper and dark fruits. On the palate, the fig and dark cherry flavours mingle with spiced deli meats. 92.

Corcelettes Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($36.90 for 305 cases). The winery chooses to leave its Cabernet Sauvignon grapes on the vine until there has been a touch of frost. Charlie has found this reduces the bell pepper notes sometimes found in Cabernet Sauvignon. This bright, juicy wine begins with aromas of cassis and dark cherry which are echoed on the palate. The texture is buffed with ripe and polished tannins. 92.

Corcelettes Talus 2020 ($54.90 for 450 cases). The blend is 40% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Malbec and 2% Petit Verdot. The wine was aged 18 months in French oak. Dark in colour, the wine begins with aromas of plum and black currant. On the palate, there are flavours of plum, dark cherry, chocolate and spice. Subtle tannins give the wine the character, to quote another critic, of “an iron fist in a velvet glove.” 95.