Winemaker's CUT winemaker celebrates best vintage of career

Photo: Vintner Michal Mosny

Michal Mosny, the winemaker and owner of Winemaker’s CUT, describes the 2020 Okanagan vintage as “exceptional” and he has the wines to prove it. “We thoughtfully consider how to interpret and tell the story of each Okanagan growing season,” he wrote in a note accompanying the winery’s current releases. “The exceptional quality of the 2020 vintage forced our hand. For the first time, we felt we had an opportunity to bottle a range of single varietal wines under our reserve Bohemian label. It truly stands out as the best vintage of my career.”

That career began in Slovakia and has continued in the Okanagan after Michal and his wife, Martina, came to Canada in 2011 and settled in the Okanagan. He spent several years as the winemaker at Lunessence Winery & Vineyard in Summerland. He also started making wines under the Winemaker’s CUT label in 2015. Winemaker’s CUT converted from a virtual winery in 2018 when Michal was able to base it on the Deadman Lake Vineyard south of Oliver. He had met the vineyard’s owner, Colin Stevens, in 2013 while buying grapes for one of Michal’s winery clients. The Stevens family had originally grown tree fruits since the 1920s on this property beside the highway midway between Oliver and Osoyoos. About 3.2 hectares (8 acres) of vines—Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc, and Cabernet Franc—were planted between 2000 and 2005. Winemaker’s CUT also has a tasting room in the District Wine Village north of Oliver.

One thing that sets Michal apart, aside from his evident skill as a winemaker, is his love of classical music. At Winemaker’s CUT and at Lunessence Winery, he piped classical music into the vineyard and the cellar. It is a musical taste he brought with him from Slovakia. He and Martina had a modest winery near the village where Beethoven is said to have written “Für Elise.”

Here are notes on Michal’s current releases.

Winemaker’s CUT Bohemian Riesling 2020 ($24 for 500 cases). The fruit is from a 2008 planting at the Chahal Vineyard at Oliver. The wine had a very long, cool fermentation. Some 22% was barrel-fermented and 10% had 14 days of skin contact to extract aromatics. The whiff of petrol leads to a rich and concentrated Riesling, with aromas and flavours of lemon, nectarine and apple. 91.

Winemaker’s CUT Bohemian Pinot Noir 2020 ($37 for 350 cases). Fruit came from two vineyards, enabling a blend of cool and warm sites. Half the wine was fermented cool with organic yeast; the other half was fermented with indigenous yeast. The wine was aged 12 months in oak (20% new French). The wine begins with aromas of cherry and mushroom, which are echoed on the palate. The wine is medium-bodied with a silky texture. 91.

Winemaker’s CUT Bohemian Cabernet Franc 2020 ($37 for 420 cases). The fruit comes from the estate vineyard and from another vineyard west of Oliver. After a one-day cold soak, the wine was fermented 14 days with organic yeast, and then aged 10 months in French oak. It begins with the classic brambly/raspberry/bell pepper aromas of the varietal. On the palate, there are flavours of cherry, red licorice and mint. 90.

Winemaker’s CUT Bohemian Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($37 for 250 cases). The fruit is from a 2010 planting in the Quails Wayside Vineyard at Oliver. After a one-day cold soak, the wine was fermented 15 days with organic yeast and then aged six months in French and American oak. This elegant wine begins with aromas of black currant, black cherry and cedar. On the palate, there are layers of fruit including black currant, cherry and blueberry. The subtle tannins lead to a long finish. 93.

Winemaker’s CUT Bohemian Syrah 2020 ($40 for 400 cases). The fruit is from the estate vineyard. There also is 8% Viognier from a Naramata vineyard in the blend. After a two-day cold soak, the fruit was fermented 18 days with organic yeast and then aged 10 months in Slavonian, American and French oak. Dark in colour, the wine begins with aromas of fig and dark fruits mingled with licorice and pepper. With decanting, the wine opens up to show flavours of blackberry, licorice and white pepper. The finish lingers. 92.

Winemaker’s CUT Bohemian Petit Verdot 2020 ($40 for 80 cases). The fruit is from a small block (half an acre) in the Harfman Vineyard at Osoyoos. After a one-day cold soak, the fruit was fermented 16 days with organic yeast. Typical for Petit Verdot, the wine is black as midnight. It begins with aromas of black cherry and dark chocolate. The palate is rich and lush, with flavours recalling a fine fruit cake. 92.

Winemaker’s CUT Bohemian Cuvée Rouge 2020 ($40 for 400 cases). The blend is 58% Merlot, 19% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot. The fruit is from two mature vineyards at Oliver. After a two-day cold soak, the fruit was fermented for 18 days and then aged 10 months in old American, French and Slavonian oak barrels. The wine begins with aromas of dark cherry, blueberry and black currant. The fruit on the palate is lush, with flavours of dark fruits. The finish is long, with notes of mocha and spice. 93.